p.

6.

There the track became rocky & rough. The rains in
winter are so heavy that everything is washed down
except the rocks & stones & so this track was
equal to a very rough river bed, & also climbing
steeply up at the same time. It was amazing how the
little car managed about ten miles of this, but it did.

The country was really lovely - wild & rocky & hilly & some
trees & when we reached the top, a terrific view
of the plain below & the sea beyond. The day was
very hot, & very blue & very clear. We passed
numerous Arabs, with donkeys & camels on their
way to market -& they said ' Saida". I
answered the same. Ben, who counts Arabic
among his languages, went into more complicated
forms of greetings. The greeting business among
the Arabs is a highly complicated affair - & it depends
on many things: who speaks first - & then there is
a definite answer to each particular form of
greeting, the Arabs are very pleasant & friendly &
it is really amazing that a British & a Jewish
officer can go freely together in these parts - when
3 & 4 years ago, it would have meant certain
death, to go alone & unprotected. But they are
incredibly evil looking, even if they are by no means
as evil as they look & indescribably dirty & squalid
& lazy. We passed through numerous villages,
some quite big ones, such as Beth Nahala, Q'lya,
Niidim & Kharhata - all of which can be found
on the map & yet this awful track. The Jews
would have had a spanking great installed road
through there long ago & electric light &