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5 times). We left Honnel about 9:15 arrived here at Koblenz hostel about 3:00
We wen through numerous towns, mostly quite small with may old
buildings and small but old churches (often 1200 or so). In Linz we
left the highway to wander back up through the narrow streets and see a
small Romanesque church (very unspecial) and an old tower of the city wall).
But really the road was no highway, and as we went through each town
it was then merely one of the town streets, so we could see the towns without
leaving the road. It is usually not so with the big autobahns (like the one
on the other side of the Rhein) - traffic is heavier, adn the road usually
runs outside the towns.

We also saw quite a lot of farmland along the river - on high
plateaus leading into the back valleys, or on the steep (even 45[?] or 50[?] if
you can imagine trying to plow and cultivate on an angle like that!)
slopes of the hills themselves, or on the flats right (along) (above) the river bed.
at first it was mostly truck gardening or small orchards, but as we
moved southward, more and more of the land was given over to
vineyards, which produce the famous Rhine wines, considered among
the best in the world.

Another element very prominent and to me completely unexpected,
on the Rhein is industry. The density of smoke stacks and large
factories looks almost as great as that in the Ruhr area. And of
course it's easily understandable with the excellent inexpensive
transportation which the river provides. Also the freight trains
are running constantly down both sides of the river - it's the first
place in Germany where I've seen more freight than passenger trains!

All of the above gives a different picture of the Rhein than I had
visualized and different than the usual tourist expects I think.
I had visualized more beautiful green sloping hills and rugged
cliffs, very few towns and these very small and quaint - mostly spectacular
natural beauty. Instead there is much more activity and human
life present and the beauty of scenery exists more as a backfrop than
as the central focus of attention (as it is for example at Fallen Leaf).
I think I like this blend of natural beauty and human activity better,
and I wonder if the usual summer tourist notices the other side
too. It's good to realize I think, that all Europeans are not either
quaint native peasant folk or tourist serving hotel owners; they
lead a full rich, busy life in the midst of their culture and
scenery, which is really as it should be - the two experiences
being integrated, rather than saved up for vacations, etc.

Well my love, I'm out of paper and out of time for tonight. I've
managed to reach page 235 (of 500) in the econ book in my odd moments -
which is pretty good progress. But now I think I'll turn in early
for a good sleep (9pm - 7am). Tomorrow we're going to spend a couple of
hours looking around Koblenz then go on to Lorch - this takes us through
probably the prettiest part of the Rhein. We're hoping for blue skies - today
was overcast and light rain all day - but not at all unpleasant with
the warm temperatures. G'night sweetheard. I love you very much, an don't
you fergit it neither!
Always + forever,
Your George