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[on right side] Wednesday May 2

Lat. [Latitude] 46° 45" since yesterday we have had fine run, with the wind directly aft yest it came round night before last from the North into the East, and yesterday morning early all hands were called to reef topsails, a call that we had expected to hear for some time, as, some of the passengers had been on deck and reported that we were going through the water at an astonishing rate, they having loged her logged her eleven and a half knots, and st as the wind had increased much, she must have gone at 13 or more, when the call was given all below were roused, as there was a company of reefers, formed of by the passengers, consisting of about 30 men, so that the ship was maned equal to a man of war and had been so since were wit in the neighbourhood of the Falklands and had the hot regular water below they sprang on deck at the call and attempted to reef the main topsail, but before they could suceed, the wind which had hauled into the South directly astern, and was blowing a gale, split the sail from yard to yard, and before it could be furled it was blown to rags some of it being caught on the fore studding sail booms, but before night they had another sail bent on and we were scudding before ofthe at the gale, at the rate of ten knots, and laughing at what would have been a serous [serious] matter, if the wind had ben a head instead of astern

[on right side] Wednesday Thursday May 3d

Lat [Latitude] 46° 15" .Weather fine and wind fair steering N.N.W.

Lat [Latitude] 44° 30" raining Thursday Friday 4th

Lat [Latitude] 44° 30" Friday Saturday 5

Lat [Latitude] 43° 9" Weather fine, wind Westerly steering North there are a great many speculations afloat among the passengers, as to whether we shall go in to to Valparaso but as the captain is verry reserved on the subject nothing if [is] known for a certainty.

[on right side] Monday 7th Thursdy 7

Lat [Latitude] 41° 10°

[on right side] Tuesday 8th

Lat [Latitude] 38° 10° we have had a glorious run for the last 24 hours having made 180 miles of lattitude and 70 miles of Longitude

[on right side] Wednesday 9th

Lat [Latitude] 35° 31" weather fine wind westerly steering NNW To day and yesterday being the anniversary of the first battle of fought by General Taylor in the Mexican war, it was celebrated on board in as good style as circumstances would permit. We listened to an address from Lieut Crowningshield, and a good on [one] it was

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After which we had toasts and snow without number and songs from the glee Club in the evening we were entertained by our dramatic club, with comic recitations, songs dialogues and declimations, In which they were assisted by a Scotch Man by the name of Murray from Andover, Mass. who had at one time been connected with a private theatre in Ireland an exelent [?delemiator?] of irish [caracter?] and of good information on almost any subject and of infinite wit and humor, so the day passed [at?] very pleeasantly

[right side] Thursday 10th

Lat [Latitude] 33° 5'1"

To day question of going into Valparaso seems to be decided, as at 8 o'clock the course of the vessell was altered from W, E to N, E and at 12oclock to N E by E, being as the Captain stated about 90 miles from land

[right side] Saturday 12th

For the last two or three days we have made but little head way as the weather has been nearly calm for us of the time and extremely pleasant, last night I saw a most magnificient sunset from mast head at night the water assumes that beautiful appearan- firey appearance that is often spoke of.

Land. I can see land to day but far to the east This morning we had nothing put on the lashes to sweeten our coffee with as to molases the say is all out this caused a tremendous hubbub and they soon thought fit to give us sugar, but the captain was terrible [?wrathey?] and raved and swore that [strikethrough] if any though-[end strikethrough] we thought that he cared a d-rn [darn] for any man on board, we were d---ly mistaken But he can't scare 150 like yankees.

Night before last we were kept awake all night by 3 or 4 of the passengers who took in into their heads to have a grand blow out as we were going into port, and they did blow it out with a vengance drinking carorousing till morning one of them Mr Murray before spoken of, a fellow of infinite wit and humor, made his way into the cabin for the purpose of rousing one of the passengers there to partake in their hilarity, and making some noise the second mate whose watch it was attempted to get him out where appon he he turned and struck him once or twice in the face which raised his "Ebenezer," and being a large man nearly double the heft of Murray, he caught hm and threw him up into the rigging as easy as one would a child, where he choked him till his toung stuck out In the morning when Murray

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became sober he regretted that it happened, and said as much to the mate but he did not seem disposed to overlook it, but I heard no more of it

[right side] Monday May 14th

This day will probably long be remembered by all on board. The [?Pharsalier?], as we [cross out] this day [end strikethrough] fore the first time for 107 days, had the privalage of again treading uppon Terra Firma. At 3o'clock P.M. cast anchor in Valparaiso.

I did not go on shore until the next day, when I found that I could walk quite comfortably although I supposed before that after being tumbled about so long it would be difficult to take a natural gait. But I found I was no more of a sailor in * We found great numbers of men here from the United States who were bound for California I should think that there were upwards of 1000 [?] vessels full of Passengers were constantly arriving and departing

The number of inhabitants in Valparaiso are estimated from 15 to 40 thousand owing to the nature of the ground on which the city is built and the manner of building tis impossible to form any estimate of the number from transitory observation. The country around Valparaiso is very hilly mountainous and [cross out] barren [end strikethrough] bare exept down iin the deep valleys between the hills, where there are vinyards in everlasting bloom, where grapes figs apples pears peaches oranges lemons and various other fruits abound where for one one rial about [12? 19?] 1/2 cts one can enter and eat his fill.

The inhabitants were verry peaceable and orderly, much more so than our own people were, and withall verry hospitable espacially the women.

There was an United States Sloop, [insertion] The Pall [end insertion] of war lying in the harbor, wanting to carry our minister home who had got into some difficulty by marrying a Chilian lady contary to their church laws which are Catholic

There was also a British Frigate, the Asia laying there and numberless other vessels of all nations We stopped there just one week took in water and fresh provisions walked run and rode ourselves almost to death, to make up for lost time, and then on Monday the 21 at 2 PM we set saill and our old ship turned her head towards California and up to this time.

[right side] Saturday 26th

we have had a fine sun with the wind aft studding sails all set so that today we are about 22º South of the line

*that respect than when I started

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Sunday June 24th

Lat 20o34"N, Lon about 120o west

We took the South east trade winds on coming out of Valparaiso and run before them steering N.W for three weeks and three days June 13 when we crossed the line in Lon 118o W before crossing the line the wind hauled into the South South West, and blew quite fresh [cross out] our course was altered to N by W, and in five days we were in 15o North when the wind came round into the N. E. so our [cross out] the ship was headed Westerley which course we kept for two or three days and on the 21st the Ship Capital which started from Boston a few days before us come in right astern to windward and before night crossed our wake about one mile astern of us steering westward, and not able to lay so close to the wind as our ship. She has over two hundred passengers on board, was in valparaiso at the time we were.

On the 22nd towards night the wind commenced blowing quite strong and having hauled farther to the N and W they {tucked?] ship and stood NE and took in sail Saturday 23rd the wind increased into a gale, every thing was taken in and the topsails close reefed, but this did not save the foretopsail which was blown right out of the [holt?] rope and torn to rags, fearing for the main top gallant and royal mast, as the ship [?] terribly they attempted to send down the top gallant and royal yards for which purpose two of the sailors went aloft but, Before they could succede in getting the yards ready to come down, the top of the top mast gave way or was wrenched off, and the top gallant mast in the utmost gepordy, for a moment, we all held our breath with anxiety and suspense, while they with the greatest prescence of mind leaped uppon ropes and came down in a moment, in getting the wreck of the top gallant mast and yards on deck, they tore a large rent in the [cross out] main top sail, and half of that sail soon, left us during the day the gale abated some what and it having hauled into the South the fore sail was set, and we scudded before it at the rate of 8 or 10 knots. this gale was as severe while it lasted as every we have experienced during the voyage.

Thus we are for the second time {cross out] full sail on the ship and shall be obliged to go into port in the condition as they would find it very difficult repairing at sea, besides it would occasion delay

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Nothing of consequence occurs to break serious monotony of this long voyage which seems to be spun out to an [illegible] length, We have now and then some little amusement by our, dramatic club, and a part of the passengers begile the time by military exercises, under Capt, Crowningshield, of the Massachusett volunteers, During the war with Mexico, The other day the second, mate quarreled with one of the sailors and because, the sailor answered him when he abused him a blow that would, nearly felled an ox, it hit him over the eye, but fortunately, it did not break the scull, but it caused the blood to flow most copiously, and laid poor jack up for some time I would not be a sailor and be placed at the mercey of such ruffians, for half the wealth, ever transported in ships across the ocean.

Tuesday June 26th

Lat 24 degrees 07' The weather today is calm and cool much cooler than I expected to find it here, as we are now directly under the sun, indeed we have experienced no very hot weather on this side of the continent But we have had for a few days considerable fogg, yesterday the captain fellout with one of the betweens deck passengers, Mr. Lord of Lacy on some trifling pretence, he raved and swore terribly. but he had waked up the wrong man one that he could not frighten, and in the impotence of his wrath the tears sold down his brandy coulered face he raved and swore, strode about the quarterdeck and swung his arms about like a jumping jack such as children amuse themselves wtih by pulling a string placed between the legs, and with the same effect, as he amused us all very much, and made an ass of himself.

Monday July 2nd 1849

Lat 26 degrees 25' [Lon?[ about 120 degrees, for the last six days we have made, but about 020 of Lat and very little if any, the Wind, Blowing constantly from the North, and North, west and so cool is it that, to be comfortable one is obliged to wear thick clothing, with coats well buttoned up One week ago we, entertained strong hopes of participating in the first celebration of the fourth of July in San Francisco, but we now within 2 days of the glorious fourth find ourselves some far 800 miles from our anticipated haven. So good by to that hope

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Wednesday

Wednesday, July 4th 1849

Lat 27 degrees 08, Lou about 124 degrees West, Head winds, ... weather cool. And this is the day of, all other days, the greatest, in our national history. and while our friends are rejoicing amid all the blessings of liberty, and all that can make life desirable, we are spent up here thousands of miles, one might say from any where and indeed with little prospect of ever getting anywhere.

For amusements we had a variety of performances in the fore noon, The first mate had a fight with one of the Sailors, in which they pulled hair like two women, and the mate undertook to gouge one of the Sailors eyes out but did not quite succede. Finally, the Captain parted them.

Next we had musies and dancing then the Declaration of Independence was read, after which the Dramatic club entertained the .... for an hour or two, but not without some inconvenience. So one of the club, Mr Duff, who got an ugly thrust from a sword, through the carlesness of one of the others, But the cut was not in a dangerous place, yet it rendered the use of a seat anything but pleasant for him for a number of days.

Then in the evening, Lieut. Crowningshield delivered an oration, which gave universal satisfaction in this world of ours,

Tuesday July 17th

Lat Lat 34 degrees 38 N Lon about 128 West Head winds continually with weather cool and foggy, seldom blessed with glimps of the sun

The wind for the last three weeks has continued with the most unprepossessing obstinacy. So blow from the point, boards which we wish to steer; at one time we were as far west as 136 degrees and up to Lat 25 degrees 30 when they docked ship and stood in towards the land, swimming down the longitude but loosing in lattitude.

Friday July 20th

For the last three days no observation has been taken owing to the foggy and the weather has been nearly calm for the same time, what wind there is is from the NW, so if we had enough of it we could run in in 24 hours.

My patience is getting nearly exhausted and I almost begin to think that we are as doomed to the fate of the flying Dutchman.

But avast thou not of impatience

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July 20th, 1849

That "where there is a will there is a way" was never more fully illustrated than on board this ship and that there is nothing but what yankee inginuity will accomplish would readily be believed by any one who could take a look down between the decks, of the Phursaha among who live yankees of all trades and professions, there is scarce anything but what they contrive to manufacture from stoves down to copper nails not to mention bowls both of zink tin and wood for to be used for the purpose of gold washing, sail making, cap, hat and scarf making and really it would puzzle one to say what is not done and everything goes on smoothly and quietly for the most part of the time. To be sure there is now and then some little disagreement between some of the passengers, but such differences are usually settled without much difficulty

What had it been carried out would have proved to have been the most serious difficulty occurred some week or two since, between one J Richerson of Novia Scotia and Josh More of Lacodha, some difficulty having grown between them, Mr Richerson seemed to consider himself insulted and straightaway challenged More to meet him on deck with pistols and fight it out. Which More who was a good natured Johnathan disposed to have sport in some way or another agreed to. But in the morning, finding that Mr Richerson was in earnest he claimed the privalage of the chalanged party to choose weapons and forthwith chose cow whips seconds were chosen and they came on deck. Richerson with the pistols and More with the cow whips. But as Richerson would fight with nothing but pistols and more with nothing but cow whips this almost bloody fight never came off.

[right side] Saturday July 21st

Lat 37 degree 0 48 miles South of San Francisco

Made land early this morning with light wind nblowing from NW and consequently dead ahead. We approached to within 5 or 6 miles of the coast, when they tacked ship and stood off over on heading slowly to windward. It may be readily supposed that the sight of the land which we have been so long in reaching gave all on board feelings of the utmost pleasure and gratitude to that power which has brought us

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safely through all the dangers we have encountered, it is to be hoped was not found wanting in the hearts of all. The country, what little we have seen looked pleasant with its hills and valleys. The hills crowned with dark green trees, probably pines, but no sign of life, or that is human life was visable, or indeed any other except on the water which was littraly covered with wild sea food.

We have had our smile from the sun which lasted for about one hour and while it lasted lit up the scene with the utmost beauty, and also enabled the Captain to take an observation, then the fogg came on again gloomy and chill high ho! how dearly I should love to see and converse with the friends that I have left so far behind but that pleasure is yet in store for me, I hope.

The prevailing winds indeed as far as our own experience goes we might say the only winds here are Northerly varying from NW to NE.

[right side] Sunday July 22d

Head winds with fogg so that there are no observations taken. The weather so cold as to be uncomfortable stood of and on all day but gained but a few miles. Saw herds of cattle on the shore, saw whales, and also a bark after a few miles to leward in the same fix that we are.

Saw a few days since the greatest shole of porpuses that ever was seen. There was a line several miles long and half a mile wide shooting in and out of the water and going at a grate rate so constantly weres they out of water that they formed the most remarkable spectacle that I ever beheld, looking like a herd of some remarkable animal, traveling on the surface of the water.

[right side] Monday July 23

Today at one oclock we entered the "Golden Gate" of the bay of San Francisco and anchored in the harbor front of the town which presents an appearance anything but inviting. The bay is magnificent with its islands on some of which were thousands of sea birds. The entrance to the bay is about one mile wide but is probably kept back by the security of lumber. A line of bold shores on each side, the town is building up very quickly. There are about one hundred vessels now anchored in the harbour. There are many contradictory reports here in regards to matters and things in general, but all agree that there is plenty of gold on the rivers but it cannot be got without labour.

[right side] Stockton Aug 12th

After stopping at San Francisco a little more than one week on the 2 of August we sailed in the Scr [Schooner] Plymouth for Stockton on the San Joaquin. Glad to get away from San Francisco, the weather was so unpleasant, foggy mornings and cold winds in

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the afternoon, wages are high at carpenters get 12 to $15 per month day the materials for a house 12 feet square ready to put up brings 800 to $1200. Stopt at Bernecia which is a government station saw several vessels were lying there, but very few buildings most of the inhabitants living in tents

on the 4th at night we arrived at this place after working our passage most of the way up the river in getting the ser off the sand bars, and almost eaten up with mosquitoes. For miles each side of the river the country is perfectly level covered with rushes, or as they are called here (tooleys) some of which measure 15 or 20 feet in length and are 1 1/2 inches in diameter in the wet season this land is all overflowed with water on the hills bordering the Bays as we came up we saw numerous herds of cattle feeding among the wild oats with which the hills were white.

We found a great many people at Stocton, mostly living in tents.

Saw an evidence of sivilisations in a gallows) on which they hung a man the day before we arrived, for Robbing, & murder. We camped on the ground near the gallows and slept soundly with nothing but blankets for a covering, the Climat is delightful being entirely different from San Francisco, warm days and cool nights The place lies at the head of a small creek about three miles from the San Joaquin the ground on which the town is laid out is beautifuly situated being level and shaded with numerous beautiful oaks which cover the country for miles arround.

Sunday Aug 20

Last Monday we arrived here at what is called "Sullivans diggings" which are on a ravene that empties into the Tualunie river on the North side and about 15 miles from Stockton in an Easterly direction. We left Stockton on Monday the 13th near sunset there were about 40 in our company with three ox teams & waggons on which were piled our baggage and provisions for which we had to pay $25.00 per hundred lbs for transportation from Stockton to this place

On Thursday the 16th we arrived at the Stanislaws river at what is called Knights crossing, here we stoped two nights, on one of which the kyotes as Indians carried off our fry pan for which I gave them credit. There were a company of 16 men at work here washing for gold but found but little. What there is is fine and pure didn't old Knights coffee & beans suffer some, and faith that was about everything he had in the provisions line

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On the way here we saw some game as pigeons quails & antelope we killed some pigeons, and Pierpont and I went in quest of a herd of antelope and succeded in driving one fine fellow into the midst of our people, and if there had been but one man he would probably have killed him but as they were thirty or forty he got away safe and sound

I find that this life agrees with me perfectly well although we fare hard and lay on the ground with nothing but our blankets, and the sky above us and a most beautiful sky it is always bright and studded most brilliantly with stars, one evening we had a few drops of rain but not enough to moisten the earth at all which is parched and dry At Knight we left most of our company and we came on here with about a dozen others we found the country very hilly and broken with deep ravines down which in the winter the water rushes in torrents tis said only travelling nearly impossible here now and then we begin to see the pine mingleing with the oak with which the country is covered but the ground is entirely destitute of grass or under brush

Sullivans Tyernys lay at the bottom of a deep ravine between high hills opening towards the west there are quite a number of people at work here not I am told near as many as formerly. The ground has been completely dug up some of it two or three times, a portion is wet and requires pumps to keep the water out at the holes while they work them after digging fifteen or twenty feet deep they come to slate rock on the top of which and in the crivices is found the gold on small lumps from one of downwards and from the appear-ances of having been melted, but few are fortunate enough to strike upon it in digging

[right side] Sep [September] 2nd 1849

Two weeks digging gold has satisfied me that if men make their fortunes by gold digging good luck has sometimes to do with it and hard labour more

Emerson got enough of it on a week and last Tuesday he started for San Francisco formed an acquaintance with a Phineas Davis a relative of Honest John Davis ex Governor of Mass. laboured in company with him the last week yesterday we went up at the Sanorean Camp which is about 3 miles from this on the way we passed the hole where tis said that there was a piece of gold taken out weighing 27lbs it is over thirty feet deep and goes by the name of the Eliphant

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