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718 THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE. [DECEMBER 2, 1882.

Notices of Books.

Vines at Longleat: their History and Management.
by William Taylor. Journal of Horticulture
Office.

This is the title of a little book on the Vine, by Mr.
William Taylor, who in a brief chapter at the commencement
gives, as it were, a key to his work, and
then proceeds to detail his practice in simple and
concise language that all may understand. Mr. Taylor
is so well known as one of the most successful
cultivators of the day, and especially as a cultivator of
the Grape Vine, that a record of his practice, in which
he has not scrupled to chronicle failues as well as successes,
renders the book more valuable and interesting
than it otherwise would be to those who are in
search of information upon the subject upon which
it treats. Every chapter in the book has a direct
bearing upon its successor, and, indeed, the little
brochure in this respect is entitled to the highest
praise, coming from the pen of a practical gardener.
Upon the great structural capacity of the vinery at
Longleat, which necessitates certain departures from
ordinary practice, it is not our intention to dwell,
believeing—indeed knowing—as we do, that such
structures are rather the exception than the rule. We
will, therefore, confine our remarks more especially
to the "cultural points" set forth by Mr.
Taylor, as it is these that are of greatest general
importance. The chapters upon drainage, water
supply, and partitioning the borders contain valuable
information, and may be perused with advantage by
Vine growers. Mr. Taylor's system of trellising may
answer well in his own, or similar cases, but surely it
is not necessary to train Vines at 4 feet from the glass.
Giving full consideration to the evils resulting from
trellises being too near the glass as referred to by Mr.
Taylor we would rather recommend as a general rule
that Vines be trained at a maximum distance of from
18 inches to 2 feet from the glass at 4 feet. "We
do not," writes Mr. Taylor, "find that plants become
drawn in such a place as the Crystal Palace, neither
do my Strawberry plants become drawn during forcing,
though they are from 4 to 8 feet from the glass." We
consider there is no analogy whatever between the
class of plants grown at the Crystal Palace and the
forcing of the Vine or the Strawberry; and we should
be surprised to find many first-rate cultivators endorsing
this statement. Admitting air from above the
foliage is good in principle. Mr. Taylor, arguing as to
temperature, states with much force that there is often
as much as 8° difference between the surface of the
ground and a height of 4 feet above it, but in the case
of a vinery the parallel hardly seems a strong one, as
the volumes of heat ascend to the highest part of a
house first; so that if there is a clear foot of space between
the leaves of the Vine and the glass there seems
no possibility of injury from extremes of temperature,
and as a matter of fact there is none. The chapters
upon border making, raising the plants, and planting
supply the most exhaustive details of culture in a
lucid style and afford sound practical instructions.
We are bound to add, however, that but few
Vine growers will think it is necessary to plant
their Vines at 7 feet apart. In regard to early training
Mr. Taylor rather deviates from the usual practice,
but the principle he recommends is in the main sound.
The next chapter on "the first pruning" is not so
intelligible; there is a laboured attempt made to prove
that Vines strike root so freely at either end that
—to use Mr. Taylor's own words—rootless heads are
as good as headless roots, meaning thereby that the
top of a Vine cut off and rooted is as good as its lower
portion after a certain time (three years). This theory
hardly tallies with experience, because the portion of
the Vine that is already furnished with fibrous roots
should, in the natural order of things, have a long
start of the rootless top. Mr. Taylor further says the
Vine's principle storehouse is not in its roots, but in
its stems and branches. Exactly; but what is the
primary source of supply? Why, of course, the
roota and the leaves, which collect the food for
the stems and branches. The general instructions
given with regard to pruning, the eradication of
insects, and other routine treatment are of the
most trustworthy character, and are detailed with
much minuteness and exactitude. The author's experience
is in favour of the extension system, and
a great many others will coincide with him who have
the means of carrying it out, but where variety is
required from small houses it is not always convenient

nor desirable to fill a house with only one or two
kinds of Grapes. Mr. Taylor gives useful information
relative to exhausted Vine borders, and suggests
a simple remedy—the addition of lime, to soils where
that desirable element is known to be deficient, in
preference to making new, and it must be admitted,
in many cases exspensive borders. The chapter in
which Mr. Taylor treats upon this part of his subject,
as well as the subsequent one upon temperatures,
may be read by amateurs, and indeed by all grades
of gardeners, with interest as well as profit, as
link after link of the whole chain of practical evidence
is unravelled in a manner that can only be accomplished
by a practitioner of long experience. It may,
however, be taken as a broad rule that Grapes take
nearer six weeks to stone in than three weeks, as
stated by Mr. Taylor.

Upon the subect of air-giving Mr. Taylor is singularly
exhaustive and clear, but we should prefer leaving
air on all night in the case of an east house at
midsummer rather than risk the chance of any assistant
attending to it as early as 4.30 A.M. !

The remaining chapters of the book elucidating
Mr. Taylor's curriculum of general practice, especially
that referring to "sustained fertility" cannot but be
of service to many who cannot obtain suitable soil for
love or money, and who are often at a loss to know
what to substitute for it. With the exception of a few
points, which probably affect the author only under
his own peculiar circumstances, we can fully recommend
the book as a carefully written and trustworty
guide, giving sound practical information upon every
subject bearing upon the culture of the Grape Vine.

A History of British Birds. (Van Voorst.)

The fifteenth part of the fourth edition of Yarrell's
celebrated book has just been issued by Mr. Van
Voorst. With this number the second volume is
completed, and the third commenced. A change of
editorship is also announced, Mr. Howard Saunders
taking up the work in place of Professor Newton. It
is needless to reiterate commendations either on text,
illustrations, or typography. Concerning the carrier
or homing pigeon, we are told on the authority of
Mr. Tegetmeier that thrity years ago only a few birds
returned home the same day in the Belgian pigeon
races of 300 miles, while now, by careful selection, it is
unusual for any of the prizes in a 500 mile race not to
be won on the vary same day that the birds are flown.
Thus, in the great Belgian race of 1882, which took
place from Monceaux, south of Bordeaux, to Brussels, a
distance of 510 miles, 1674 birds were liberated at
4.12 A.M., the first bird reached home at 4.37 P.M.,
his speed having been about 1300 yards per minute.
One hundred and fifty birds were back the same
day. The faculty possessed by these birds is not
merely instinctive, but due to training; hence the
best bred birds will be lost if taken untrained 100
miles from home.

— Amateur Work Illustrated is the title of a
monthly serial published by Messrs. Ward, Lock
& Co., and ably edited by the author of Every Man
his Own Mechanic. We are glad to observe from
the volume before us, that our anticipation, formed
after the appearance of the first few parts, that it would
meet a distinct want, in providing a medium for
enquiry, and for the diffusion of sound practical
knowledge and advice, turns out to be correct.
Among the legion of amateurs possessing a turn for
mechanics, or work of some kind, very many often
come to grief in their work for the want of a little
sympathetic instruction and guidance. The amount
of useful knowledge which this volume contains, on
subjects ranging from from the manufacture of an organ to
the mixing of a pail of whitewash, is something surprising;
and it would be hard to find a more sensible
Christmas present for a youngster in search of a hobby,
or a volume more interesting and useful to amateur
mechanics in general.

— Flora of Italy.—The Compendio della Flora
Italiana, published under the editorship of Professor
Gibelli, has now reached its 720th page and 88th plate.
The genera are illustrated by small but clear
engravings.

British Moss Flora.—Dr. Braithwaithe's excellent
Moss Flora has now reached its 8th part, and its 20th
plate. The care with which this work is prepared is
as remarkable as ever; even pre-Linnean synonyms
are given.

The Flower Garden.

BEDDING PLANTS.—The recent weather has been
very trying to the store plants in pits and frames,
particularly to the late cuttings, which have not yet
become well-rooted, and they will require great attention
in the constant removal of al incipient signs of
mould and decay. In the case of the plants potted
from the flower beds, all decaying foliage must be removed,
and mouldy shoots shortened with a sharp
knife. At the same time, as the prevalence of a
damp and stagnant atmosphere is the principal cause,
and at all times most inimical to the plants, it
must be checked by free ventiliation at every favourable
opportunity, particularly on fine mornings, when
it may have become necessary to water any which
may have become over-dry. It should be borne in
mind that in such succulent things as the whole tribe
of Scarlet Pelargoniums, dryness at the roots, when
not carried to excess, is not so much to be dreaded
as the moisture, and therefore in adddition to plenty
of ventilation a little heat should be put on at the
same time to assist in keeping all the surroundings
dry. Unless in the case of frosty nights, when it
cannot be avoided, heat should not be shut up with
the plants and all apertures closed, as it will make
them tender and promote a spindling and attenuated
growth, when the great object is to keep them dwarf.
Light, heat, and ventilation under proper control
appear to be the only means by which these results
can be secured. We may, however, observe that a
certain amount of heat in the soil is an absolute necessity
to the rooting processes, and therefore all late
struck cuttings and late potted plants should be indulged
with the warmest ends of the pits or whatever
structures may be available for the purpose of wintering
these and kindred plants.

MIXED HERBACEOUS BORDERS.—Everything here
should now have become quite dormant, and the whole
of the old flower-stems should be at once removed to
the rubbish-heap. If it is not deemed advisable to
lift the plants and deeply trench up the borders and
renovate them with manure and new composts it will
be found a very good thing to stir the surface and
cover the whole with well decomposed manure. If
a good dressing of soot can be spread over previously
so much the better as it will help to keep in check
the slugs which are greatly destructive to the young
growths. The experience of last winter was a
caution in this way; there was never frost enough
to drive them from their usual haunts, and they were
more numerous and destructive than I ever remember.

PROTECTION TO TENDER PLANTS.—The occurrence
of severe frost a short time back reminds us of
the necessity of applying a slight protection to various
semi-tender plants the roots of which should be
guarded from severe frost by covering them with a
sufficient quantity of some light dry material such as
cinder ashes, which can be heaped up in a conical
form with a broad base, and is one of the most efficient
protectives I know of. It is less liable to be
disturbed by the birds than cocoa-fibre, or leaf-
mould, while the shape of the cone is calculated to
throw off heavy rains and tends to preserve a dryness
and warmth to the roots which it takes a very low
temperature indeed to reach. By this means fine
plants of Dielytra spectabilis may be secured, also
Salvia patens, if left in the open ground, may be so
preserved; Acanthus grandiflorus, Gunnera scabra,
Tritoma Uvaria, grandis, and intermedia; Lilium
auratum, and all the varieties of speciosum and japonicum;
all of which will be the better for a little extra
covering. Althjough most of them will pass through
such a winter as that of last year with impunity, yet,
as such winters are the exception, it is always best to
be on the safe side, and the more so as the covering
may be easily removed as soon as the growth is likely
to commence in the early spring.

TRELLISES, &C.—Advantage should be taken of
mild weather to prune and regulate climbers on trellises
and conservatory walls by tying out at once all
that are perfectly hardy, but the tenderer sorts,
such as the varieties of Ceanothus, will be better only
partially fastened, so as to facilitate the application of
mats or other protection in very severe weather, at