mss142-vasilevShishmarev-i4-030

- 139 -

a brook, which is transformed into a deep and swift river
in January and February when it rains here. Having inspected
the mission and attended Catholic mass in the church, we went
into the dining room, that is, into a long and somber shed,
entirely similar to those described above. In the middle was
a table without a tablecloth, which was set with many clay
dishes with food and the same kind of plates. There were no
knives, forks, or spoons, but we, knowing about that from the
accounts of Captain Shishmarev, who was here on the brig
"Riurik," had provided ourselves with these things, and were
therefore saved by that from the necessity of using our fingers.
Long benches instead of chairs stood around the table. We sat
on them and were first served with a favorite Spanish dish,
olla podrida [stew], so permeated with cayenne pepper that it was
impossible to eat. Then followed beef boiled and cut into
squares swimming in melted butter, completely overcooked mut-
ton and deer, roasted wild goose and kadarnists (a kind
of quail, and which will be mentioned below). Finally, there
appeared watermelons, melons, and dried grapes. Almost all
the food was filled with pepper. This is a sample of the local
Spanish dinners, which were served to us by the monks, the com-
mandant, and all the officers in turn. Only during a few
[dinners] appeared vegetables such as boiled cabbage and corn
on the cob.

On the first of December, old style [new style, December
12], on the day of the patroness of North America, Holy Maiden
Maria Guadelupe [Our Lady of Guadelupe], festivities take place