A Diary and Journal from the Second Grinnell Expedition

[verso] I run on deck and am greeted by another of our wild contrasts. Three teams of dogs are baying at their tethering cords and five Esquimaux yelling "Jima!."

Among the most prominent of the natives was Kalutinak - a glance assured me of the success of my dog project, it was evidently a hungting party - two noble teams of six dogs - harpoons - lances - light equipment every thing convinced me at a glance - Now for to fuse the hunt into an exploration of the N. Channel. I will wait - Indian fashion until eat [food] and sleep brings [the] talk. [Even with] [these savages haste is indecorous].

The natives are around me eating their stew laughing and questioning and breaking in upon poor Petersen whose services are usurped by myself. Kalutak has the place of honour on my own platform - he has the nature of a gentleman this Kalutak. He receives and thanks me for my presents. the first "Kuyanake" "thank ye" that I have yet heard from Smith Strait Esquimaux - "he will be happy to join his friend the big headsman ([naklisak?]) in a hunt. He does not believe that three [there?] are [ominmak?] (musk ox) but he [?] in the north dessert but he knows that we may expect bears."

Thus it is at last [is] a prospect of the leading wish of my heart being gratified. I see clearly that I can purchase an exten- sion of their journey and trusting in Provi- dence, a few hours will see me ready.

A fortnight ago I was on the floes and twice within this week I've been sledging it again - more than 300 miles of hard wearing travel only to bring about this result Now that I see things open ahead of me my sick recovering - the coming duties chalked out and under weigh - I cannot help

[recto] feeling that something is watching me and modifyiing my path for fixed ends. That I frail Elish Kane the bedridden of last year should [now] be the only well and able man of this expedition is puzzling enough. It may be that I am reser- ved to take my dear friend Henry Grinnell by the hand and say your confidence has not been misplaced - I have not failed you or myself. It may be "as in strange lands the traveller walking slow, in doubt and great perplexity, a little before moonrise heard the low wail of an unknown sea."; that I taxed beyond corporeal endurance give way on the brink of consummating my hopes crying "I have discovered a new land but I die!."

Wednes. Apr. 25.

Kalutanak called himself my [asakaotut?]* or "friend" and seems greatly pleased by the distinction which I draw between him and the other Esquimaux. He sits with the accordion - of which none ever accord - braying horrible discord but is always devout in his respect and intelligent and interested in his questions. Oh my expressing a fear as to the effect of raw meat upon me - to the exclusion of other diet - he said that he had noticed that frozen beef agreed with his bowels and helped to warm him when he changed from summer to winter food. This man quotes "his experience "I have found." Constantly. All the others seem to rely implicitly upon his opinions yet poor Kalutak has not become oracular. I like the man, he has man stuff in him.

A couple of snow birds were seen by Mr. Bonsall on 23^d inst. - a week earlier than last year. * "I like you well"

[verso] Thurs. Apr. 26. 6.a.m.

Too busy yesterday to write. Am just about to leave and can leave as far as regards my ship and people with an easy mind. Bye bye dear home folks.

Satur. Apr. 28. Was ever so tormented, bedevilled and body torn man, angel, or devil. I'm back again after [an utter failure to get beyond the great glacier] 58 hours absence. The whole of which time - except four hours sleep in the open air - was one continued bear hunt. The exposure has been precious. Had I been told that I could have stood it there would have been to me no rational clue by which to sustain [such] a fact. We have been to the great glacier and back, making detours for bear at every group of ice bergs and ranging an ice surface whose rectilinear diameter cannot be less than 200 miles our estimated distance travelled being [could not be] about [less than] 450 miles.

My party consisted of Kalutak, Shang-hu, and [?]. The two first with six dogs each the last with only four. Hans armed with the Marston rifle was my only companion from our ship's company.

We stood at first by my own [?] due N. and recognoitred the ice from a berg about 15 miles from the vessel. The ice ahead looked uncheering [?] [?] piled up this fall in the outside tide channel. My Esquimaux never the less acceeded to my will to attempt the passage of this ice and I think would have been as good as their words but for an unfortunate bear who drew them from their route and rendered them perfectly dead to every thought but their hunt. This instinct of

[recto] chase converted them into unmanageable savages They seemed blind to every thing but the passion of pursuit. Off they sped with incredible speed, clinging to their sledges and cheering their dogs, a mad wild chase, wilder than German legend. The dogs wolves, the drivers devils.

We halted but once and then took four hours sleep upon the naked ice. They had now tracked a second bear to a large berg off Cape Fredrick where the beast had caught and partially devoured a large seal. The dogs had gorged themselves upon this carcass and would not move so we rested that they might sleep and desist for the morrow. In reply to my remonstrances and urgent entreaties for them to resume their promised route they said as was indeed true that to cross here was impossible and I remembering the two poor fellows in their graves - at this very passage - could not urge it. Kalutak said that the bear were valuable to themselves and families and Nalagak had no right to make him unable to provide for them. It was [?] clear that all hopes of using his dogs for exploration were to be abandoned, but having still a chance of obtaining four from Mitek I stipulated for the earliest return to the brig.

On rising from a sleep in open air [?] [?] twelve below zero - the hunt was resumed and continued until I saw that my last remaining hope with Mitek would be endangered, whereupon I forced them to return. By this time we were abreast of the great glacier - of which I obtained sextant angles and sketched worn out dogs [and] men reached the ship next day.