A Diary and Journal from the Second Grinnell Expedition

Rensselaer Harbour June 8th

Sunday June 4

Brig Advance now frozen in quarters Rensselaer Harbour June 8th

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He did not return last night but Dr. Hayes and Mr. Ohlsen who were sent after him with the dog sledge - found the hardy savage fast asleep - not five miles from the brig - Alongside of him was a large Seal shot as usual in the head. He had dragged it for seven hours over the Ice foot.

The ice breaks up slowly. Hans reports the open water as extending beyond the Esquimaux huts - between them and Godsend ridge with a slight bend to the nd[northward].

[Margin] Sunday June 11

Another walk on shore showed me the Andromeda in flower - the saxafrages and carices green beneath the dried tufts of last year. This rapidly maturing vegetation is of curious interest in the case of the Andromeda Tetragona the plant had advanced rapidly towards putrification without a corresponding development of other parts. The stalks and leaflets ( ) were dry and instead of the graceful growths which characterised the heaths. It presented a low scrubby sod - or turf studded with flowers. The localities from which these were taken were well infiltrated with melted snows retained by the dead mosses. The rocks too so enclosed them as to aid by reverberation the solar heat.

Few of us at home can realise the protection of this warm coverlid of snow. No Eider down in the cradle of an infant is tucked in more kindly than these creeping anemones or the late seasoned ranunculi by their snowy covering. The first warm snows of Aug & Sept: falling upon a thickly pleached carpet of carices (grasses) Ericas (heaths) and willows- (salices-) invests the hoary growths which nestle around them with a non conducting air chamber and as each successive snow increases the thickness of

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This is a welcome [engrafting?] upon our seal meat.

Hans thinks that the open water seen last between Godsend Id. and Esquimaux Point has worked up nearer Bedevil= led Reach. The ice is quite unsafe off Sylvia Head, and seal lie by their Attuk between our brig and the shore.

Made arrangements for the disposition of our coal - reserving twenty kegs for our use should we make open water - and the remainder barely enough to last us for the present month. Separated for use. We have a store of wood but so much for Brooks and his coal. In oil we are again stocked. Our seal yield is an average of five gallons each. I sup= pose we have a barrel (32 gall) already tried out. Ten seal make a barrel as is the case at Uppernavik at this season. In the winter they use from ten to fourteen. The blubber occupies the same volume as is the oil subsequently boiled from it. A fact somewhat puzzling to those who remember the abundant cellular tissue which sustains the fat cells. It is explained by the increased expansion of the oil with change of climate & season.

[Margin:] Wednes June 14

By great exertion Hans was practised during the entire day with the sledge. In spite of the sneering prognostics of that poor devil Godfrey he learnt rapidly the main essential. The whip was already acquired by Hans in the childish games of [Fiskirnas?]. At 1. P.M. he started. Petersen and Hayes pilotted him to the land ice and thus I accomplished a substitute for my rennegade.

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If Hans succeeds in his efforts he may catch Morton before he leaves the glacier and thus make the Exploration which will perfect our voyage. Should this be done many a larger expedition equipped with every resource of art and science has done less and none could do more.

The reindeer was brought home by Dr. Hayes and Mr. Ohlsen. Petersen was well enough to make a seal screen in the hope of being able to use it during Hans' absence.

William Godfrey continues on the sick list. Malingering!! Hayes [?] [swasion?] with his physic and failed. Bill is a bad fellow. Sonntag again able to attend to magnetics.

[Margin:] Friday June 16

Two long tailed duck ([?]) visited us evidently seeking their breeding grounds. They are beautiful either at rest or on the wing. We now have the snow bird, the snipe, the Burgomaster gull and the long-tailed duck enlivening our solitude. But the snow birds only are in numbers crowding our rocky island and making our sunny night time musical with home remembered songs. Of all the rest we have but a solitary pair who seem to have left their fellows and sought this far northern mating ground in order to love unmolested. I long for specimens but they shall not be fired at.

The Ptarmagan show a singular backwardness in assuming the summer fea= thering. The male is still entirely white

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except in some specimens a few brown feathers at the crown of the head. The female - much further progressed - is now well coated with her new plumage - the coverts and quill feathers still remaining white.

At Upernavik the male had already advanced further than the and the female had completed her changes.

[Margin] Saturday June 17

The wind which has been much of late from the No. set in yesterday strong and steady from the S.W. We hope it will influence our pack. The ice when last seen was near Bedevilled Reach: it advances (the water) slowly.

Dr. Hayes and Henry Goodfellow at work preparing library & lockers below for a re inhabitation of our cabin. We have been since Pierces death living on deck un= der temporary housing. Our fuel now on its last legs forces us to reoccupy our old habitation.

A crack 18 in wide runs across our bay. The ice as measured at its margin was 4. / 4 in in thickness.

[Margin] Sunday June 18

A pair of long tailed ducks passed over our bay bound for further breeding grounds. An ivory gull was seen and two great northern divers ([left blank by EKK]) the most imposing birds of their tribe. These last flew very high emitting a regular intervals their reed like "kawk."

Mr. Ohlsen and Dr. Hayes are off on a long overland tramp. I sent them to inspect the open water to the southward. The immoveable state of the ice foot gives me anxiety. Last year a large bay but twenty miles above us was [cloud?] all