A Diary and Journal from the Second Grinnell Expedition

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my hopes untainted. Want of hope is a taint a rotteness, and as long as my energies keep true I do not fear for the future. Thus I argue to myself. It is but eleven days before we reach the middle of our night. After that the consciousness that every day nears us closer to the dawing will give a moral prop to my sick. I have saved a bottle of Champaign, hoarded up since September, to garnish a dinner and play upon the spirits of my little family. Again, I find by my journals of animal life that by the 9th of Feb. we may expect a chance deer, and still earlier (in January) a few Ptarmagan. Finally, if the worst turns up, I am sufficiently hardened to the climate not to fear a few days of -50° and will find my way to the Leiper Bay Esquimaux and in virtue of my terrible authority as [Nahlagak?] and Conjurer, press into service sledges drivers and walrus hunters. Give me health and I've no fears.

The super abundant life of Northumberland Isd has impressed Mr. Petersen as much as it did me. How fearfully it bears upon the fate of Franklin. I could evven in August have collected a winters sustenance of Birds and Cochlearia, and here have this poor party lived the live of Esquimaux with temperatures of -50° and darkness covering their hunting grounds.

Our own sickness I attribute to our civilized diet. Had we plentiful supplies of raw & frozen walrus I

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McGeary, my relief, calls me. He has foraged out some raw cabbage and spiced it up with curry powder, our only remaining pepper. This, with a piece of corn bread, no bad article either, he calls me to share with him. True to my old times habitudes I hasten to the cabbage. Cold roast beef Worcester sauce, a head of endive, and a bottle, not one drop less, of [Presi?] Pans ale. (I never drink any other). McGeary "bring on de beans."!

Thurs. Jan. 18. 12 [Mid?]

Wind howling on deck, a noq. gale a warm S.Easter directly from the land. The mean temperature of this wind is -20°. Warm as this may seem our Experience has taught us to prepare -40° with a calm to -10° with a face opposing gale. Judging by what little of weather wisdom I have acquired I should if we only had daylight start as soon as the present wind subsided, believing that I would have a three days interim between a renewal of atmospheric disturbance and the coming moon. It is however too dark to encounter the squeezed ice and I must wait.

[*Describe the survey &c. all after date of return on p. 280.*] My [plan] mode of travel I said yesterday, was peculiar. I will imagine myself explaining it to the tea table. [Bessie and Sallie Butler]] my outfit and intentions.

Route Say the Route is from Brig Advance Rennsselaer Harbour to Esquimaux Huts of Leiper Bay.

1. From Brig to Ten mile Ravine 10. m.

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[*omit*] The days have great beauty and our night is enlivened by an unsurpassable moon. This short season of alternating night and day reminds me of home, but the duration of the dark hours is so palpably encroached on by the increasing daylight that the home resemblance is very faint. Already we read the thermometers by the dawning at 5 o'clock and the twilight extends with the same brightness to 7. in the afternoon. The [turbid?] sky to the northward holds until [blank] and in [blank] days our now cherished nighttime will be converted into twilight. [end omit]

Sunday Mar 4.

To day, Sunday, we were unable to supply the sick with food. Our small remnant of deer was too tainted to be trusted our bear legs stripped even of their marrow. Thus we find ourselves brought up. I have spent the day playing cook and made up sundry entremets of meat biscuit beans and apples, but sick men will have a [?] to [?] [grovel?] and I fear that my artistic powers were under rated.

Every thing by word and manner that my mind suggests to me I do to cheer up my invalids, but I am not going to be caught in a trap, to procrastinate decisive action for our relief until every man is disabled and our party irremediably doomed. I dare not leave them to go out toward the [?]. [Well,?] if Hans does not bring in a rabbit tomorrow, I must spare him to go alone after the Esquimaux at [blank] Bay [*omit*] [Cold as it is he must start alone, on an attempt the fifth to reach the Leiper Bay settlements.

My eye has been long fixed upon this journey, and I have been [?] [end omit]

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Satur. Mar. 17.

[Prepare] I have set Hans up with a five sinnet line of Maury's Sounding twine. This will I hope make a good [alerk?] or walrus line. The natives to the south about Leiper Bay have lost nearly all their lines by the accidents of Dec. & Jan. They are only to be replaced by the return of the seal as a good or even serviceable alerk requires a whole ussuk for its manufacture. The alerk is almost the only article whose manufacture seems to be conducted with any care and nicety of process.

[*illegible*] this

Meat only by scraps. Sick the same. Refraction great to No. at 8 PM. Altitude of West & N W coast 0^o 14. Difference between sun & shade at noon with [Pouchets?] instrument (prepared on board) 75° degrees. Sun + 35° shade -30°. Water or rather moisture at base of snow crust on black side of ship to Id. This was the first seen and is eight days in advance of 1854. An early season is of vital importance to us.

Sunday Mar. 18

Continue to watch suspiciously the conduct of John and William. I find much to give me uneasiness. They were both taken simultaneously sick this morning and I find on examination that they are feigning disease. Taking this in conjunction with the intended departure of Hans tomorrow, I can easily see that this feigned sickness is a ruse in order to gain rest previous to their villanous attempt. Stephensen overheard them concert a plan to that effect, but differing from their former scheme, in this particular they were to size Hans and compel him to accompany them.

I am obliged to act very guardedly. I cannot take any just measures against

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these men until I have positive proof by overt act of their mutinous purposes. Nor can I trust the matter to other hands than my own. My faithful few are down upon their backs. I cannot depress them by disclosing a scheme which would if successful be nearly fatal to them. The others I am unable to trust, behold me then obliged to sleep by cat naps, keep vigil, night and day, walk armed to the teeth, and withal grin, eat, and clock as if my sole duty was to enjoy the very bountiful resources of this arctic pleasure ground.

Sick have lost nothing. Although Petersen and Bonsall begin to suffer in the joints.

Monday Mar 19.

Hans got off at 11. a.m. Every thing ready for a strenuous attempt to renew our supplies of meat. By devising outside duty I managed to separate John and Bill, and thus by keeping a constant guard over one to frustrate their intentions, I did this so ingeniously that they did not suspect my reason, but the impatience and anxiety of the parties was a scene "as good as a play". It would be serious play should they rob us of our dogs and gain the [Nutlek?] settlements. We could then no longer hunt or communicate with Leiper Bay. I hope that the danger is now over and that I may keep this thing a secret in my own breast. Situated as we are even the frustration of a mutinous idea, had best be concealed. This course is not only one of true policy but of [charity?] to the delinquents.