1985-04 (April)

April 21st, 1985

New York; slept till 8:40-fifty after 6 oclock. Bathed, washed hair while waiting for breakfast order of toast and coffee. Watched Brinkley Report, 11:30- 12:30; then down to Rose Room for lunch – lamb chops for me, omelet and bacon for Gwyn. Took short sic-block walk up 60th Ave. to 47th St. and back; rested in room while waiting to catch a taxi for JFK. Made good time; checked from suitcases, strolled around for a while, then went to gate 33 and waited till boarding time (6:45) for Air France flt. 70, seats H and G 45. Got settled; took off at 7:30, half an hour behind schedule, all seats on 747 filled, front to back.

No sleep all night except fitful eat naps. Continued Sweet Cheat Gone.

April 22nd, 1985

Paris; arrived on schedule, 10 o’clock. Hotel Port Royal, 7 Rue du Bac; by 11:20 after smooth passage through customs; Room 80, fifth floor – same as our December trip in 1983. Good to be back, with familiar view from balcony- straight up Rue de Bac to the Seine. Bright sunlight.

Took brief walk around Faubourg Saint Germain; ate apple tart, then came back to room for a jet-lag nap. Bathed and called Huger, who showered (just in from work) and came over by metro. Arrived around 7:30 looking fine. We gave him his various things we brought, then went to dinner at La La Gagalau Verre, nearby on Rue de Venueuil; splendid meal, especially the duck pate and the St. Estephe wine. Gwyn and Hugs had rack of lamb; I had noguous de veau, all rather nouvelle cuisine. For dessert, apple crepes. Cost, 1784 FF. steep but less than first class NY restaurant, or even Justine’s. Hugs came back to hotel with us to pick up his things then went home to Rue de la Verrerie. Asleep by midnight, still fighting jet lag.

April 23rd, 1985

Slept till around 9:30 but found that Gwyn had been up since 7, unable to sleep past 4:30, still in the toils of jetlag. Breakfast in room (croissants, hand rolls, rusks and café au lait; it came with the room), then went for another walk around the region. Saw a Paul Klee exhibit at 25 R de Tournon in the 6th arrondissement; went by cab, returned on foot, stopping on Blvd. St- Germaine for a croque Monsieur at the Café de Flore. Hotel by 3 o’clock; telephone message from Michel Mohrt at Gallinard inviting us to lunch tomorrow- he’ll call back. Called him instead; we’ll meet for lunch at 1 o’clock, Le Voltaire, one of my favorite restaurants.

Mary Kling (French agent) called, I’ll see her Monday the 29th to discuss complications of paperback sale to Christian Bourgoise 10/18 series. Meantime, she instructed me, I am to be firm with Mohrt on granting rights. Gwyn took short nap while I continued Cheat; nearing end.

At 6:30 made dinner reservations at Gerard, an old-style bistro, R. du Maine, 2nd Arrondissement. Txi there; Hugs arrived half an hour late. All three ate same thing- shrimp vinegrette and a huge platter of boiled beef with marrow bones, carrots, leeks, potatoes; truly lavish and good, and what’s more cheap: 400 FF. with preliminary things? And a bottle of Chardonay white and another of bruilly red Burgundy. Caught cab at Place des Victoires, nearby, back to hotel by midnight.

April 24th, 1985

Poor night’s sleep; woke at 4:30 with indigestion from overeating; took Titralac but couldn’t get back to sleep. Got up at 9 when Paul Carnuignani called from Youlouges, arranging to meet here on Monday, 6 May. Breakfast; wrote postcards to Walker and Cromac McCarthy, signing former “Fyodon D,” whose photo was on first and congratulating latter on 135th anniversary of his huma-crossing massacre (Dickens photo).

Lunch 1p.m. with Michel Mohrt at Le Voltaire; took him carton of Cheterfields. Had cold sausage and hot rabbit, both good. Pleasant encounter as before; talked from 1:15 till nearly 4, then walked together to R Sebastian- Boltien near hotel. He said he’d rather bring out the two novels in Gallinard’s folio series then sell then to Bourgoise.

Back at hotel, read Proust, then took nap. For dinner, Gwyn and I returned to Le Voltaire. Snail soup appetizer for me, white asparagus for Gwyn; then main course, lamb chops and bouef bourginon ; dessert profiteroles with chocolate sauce and (for me) crepes with coufits de maison. Armange as wind-up. 900 FF., and worth every f of it. Featured to Port-Royal at straight up midnight. Message that Hugs called, but let it go till tomorrow.

April 25th, 1985

Paris: fourth day. Slept till 9:30; bathed, washed hair; arranged by phone to meet Hugs at his place at 2 o’clock. En route, went to Shakespeare and co. in search of Clarissa; no luck either with Richardson or Browning. Walked over to, and through, Notre Dame Cathedral- sunlight full the big round stained glass window. Then onto Hug’s on Rue de la Verrerie; small but livable, with lofted bed and a well-stocked bookcase, comfortable small couch and table. From there we set out on a walk through the Marais to the Place des Voseges, stopping on way for an Algerian-Jewish sandwich each and a shared half-bottle of wine. Place was lively, but crowded with tourists and children. On way back (by different route) stopped for pastries and coffee at St. Germaine near Quai a l’Hotel de Ville. Past 6 when we got back to Hugs’.

Gwyn and I walked all the way to the hotel, mostly alongside the Seine, before and after crossing the Port Neuf. Bought a Plegide Celine for Hugs at book stall, and paid a visit to both Town St. Jaques and the bank vert Gallant. Back at Port-Royal, decided to get dinner in dining room, Les Antiquaines: asparagus and duck for Gwyn, Coquille St. Jacques and calf’s leg stuffed for one. Short walk up Blvd. St.-Germain and back; bed by midnight.

Got Hug’s a good edition of Maupaesant’s ‘Parisian’ stories at libarie Gallinard; ordered a companion volume of ‘Norman’ stories. Also got Bel Ami.