Julia Griffiths to Frederick Douglass, April 24, 1856

For Frederick Douglass' Paper.

LETTERS FROM THE OLD WORLD.

Number XVIII.

EDINBURGH, April 24, 1856.

MY DEAR FRIEND:—I do not like the idea of next Saturday's steamer quitting Liverpool without carrying a brief epistle to Rochester. As influenza does not tend to brighten the intellect, nor to quicken the industry of the unfortunate mortal that is its victim, I feel much tempted to let judgment go by default, and to indulge in the dolce far niente, on this, the day of the Edinburgh Feast; yet as you, and others of my kind friends, say to me, "write as often as you can," I am egotistical enough to flatter myself that there would be some disappointment felt in some quarters, if no letter "from the Old World," wended its way across the ocean by this steamer. Some of the Edinburgh people say, jocosely, that they have six weeks of easterly wind, here in the month of April! Whether this be so, or not, you are as able to judge as I; but this I know, that, though "bright Phœbus has mounted his chariot," and the sky is clear, and the charming Edinburgh meadows (of which I have a fine view from the room in which I am sitting) are once more "with verdure clad"—while

"Again rejoicing Nature sees Her robe assume its vernal hues. Her leafy locks wave in the breeze, All freshly steep'd in morning dews"—

stern winter, ere his final departure, is doing his utmost to nip and pinch us, in this, the modern Athens, and chill us, by the rigor of his northern blasts, into longings for the sunny land of the South, where his angry howl is never heard, nor his icy footprints seen.

I went, between two and three weeks ago, to hear the great Dr. GUTHRIE preach. He is the most popular minister in Edinburgh (this city of great preachers) of any denomination. "Have you heard GUTHRIE?"—"You must hear GUTHRIE"—"Be sure and hear GUTHRIE"—"Hav'nt you heard GUTHRIE?" was sounded in my ears for months before I wended my way to the FREE CHURCH, where Sunday after Sun-

day, the great Doctor pours forth his eloquence to an admiring and vast audience. "Good will to men" was his text. The matter and manner of the preacher were alike strikingly original. He considered, in succession, the messengers, the message, and the beings to whom the message was sent; but, his great forte seemed to me to be illustration, and the pictures he painted were so vivid, that he made me almost see the shining garments, and hear "the multitude of the heavenly host, praising God, and saying Glory to God in the highest, on earth peace, good will toward men." Dr. Guthrie's dramatic powers are of the highest order. I should not think the Kembles could have surpassed him in the thrilling pathos with which he pronounced the words of David, when messengers, brought him tidings of the death of his ill fated son. "Oh my son, Absalom, my son, my son Absalom! would to God I had died for thee, O Absalom, my son, my son!"

But I paid dearly for the treat of hearing Dr. Guthrie. The church was like a vapor bath, for heat; and, on coming out into a cutting east wind, I took a severe cold, which at first, confined me to my room, and the house, and from which I have not recovered. I hope you will not say that this cold is a judgment upon me for entering a Church as faithless to her Anti-Slavery convictions as was the FREE CHURCH of Scotland when she committed the fatal error of soliciting and receiving the contributions of slaveholders, and "lost a glorious opportunity of giving her voice, her vote, and her example to the cause of humanity."

I rejoice to say that almost every minister of the Free Church, to whom I have been introduced, and with whom I have made a point of conversing on this subject, has expressed to me his deep regret at the mistake made on that occasion, and his desire to do something to further the Anti-Slavery cause. Indeed, one of the learned Doctors of this church, said to me, on my pressing him on this matter, "I know it was a mistake; I never wanted them to go South, but the error was committed, and what could we do?" "You could have sent back the money," said I. He then tried to explain to me, that all the money was mixed up together, and could not be divided. This sounded rather like a subterfuge. I am quite sure that the con-

sciences of many ministers in that church, would be far more at ease if the subject were brought up, by some of themselves, in the General Assembly, and the question were asked, and answered, How shall we make restitution? Who can say that this may not yet be done, and the great DR. CANDLISH himself be the man that does it? When the Free Church of Scotland shall shake herself from the golden dust, that still clings to her raiment; when she shall loose herself from the Southren "bands of her neck," then, and not till then will she "put on her beautiful garments," and "arise" and "shine."

My friend, REV. ALEXANDER WALLACE, most kindly volunteered to give an Anti-Slavery discourse, in his own church, last Sunday evening. It was, I understand, the first sermon on this Subject ever preached in Edinburgh on a Sunday evening. Every aisle of the church was crowded long before the commencement of the service, and five hundred people, at least, went away from the doors, unable to gain admittance. Mr. Wallace took his text from 58th Isaiah, the 6th verse: "Is not this the fast that I have chosen. To loose the bands of wickedness, to undo the heavy burdens, and to let the oppressed go free, and that ye break every yoke."

He gave a history of the use of progress of Slavery in the States, and a sketch of the iniquitous laws that have from time to time been made and passed by the Slavery propagandists, the extension of the foul system, and the increased oppression of its victims. Every face was upturned; every eye was fixed on the speaker; and every ear listening to his every word. A more attentive audience could not have been convened; and a more earnest and impassioned preacher could not have been found. Mr. Wallace is a man of great enthusiasm. He is just fitted for an Anti-Slavery speaker, for he throws his whole soul into his subject, and cannot fail to be an excellent pleader for the cause of the slave. He has been requested to deliver his Lecture again, in a larger Church, and will do so at an early period. At the close of the discourse, a good collection was taken up in aid of "Frederick Douglass' efforts in behalf of his oppressed people." Mr. Wallace spoke most modestly and beautifully, in his discourse, about the effort being a very small one; but, he added, he knew that, at least, one

heart would be cheered by it. I wondered at the time whether you and Mr. Wallace were in rapport? and the next day he said to me the same thought had occurred to him.

"Laws, perhaps unknown, but certain, Kindred spirits may control."

I almost believe that you felt those earnest pleadings for the down trodden bondsman, though uttered away off, over the waters of the wide Atlantic ocean—for

"Who knows how the soul may travel, While unconsciously we rest?"

* * * * * * * * * *

It has been my privilege to meet, from time to time, in the social circle, a great many of the ministers of the UNITED PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH. I find them, one and all, thorough on the Anti-Slavery subject. There is no half and half about it. They are, as a body, whole souled Anti-Slavery men; and I will undertake to say, that from no friends of the slave in Scotland, (nay, in Great Britain itself,) will you receive a warmer welcome—(come, when you may)—nor more active co-operation than from the noble minded, large hearted, earnest, eloquent and indefatigable ministers of this Church.—The kindness and hospitality, exercised towards me by many of these ministers, and their excellent families, I shall never forget, and have esteemed my intercourse with them a great privilege. Like many others, I came to Scotland with the impression that I should find the Presbyterians here bigoted, morose, cold, and stern, and very doctrinal in preaching. I find them just the reverse in every respect. They are the most approachable ministers I know; and have far less of caste and stiffness about them than our English clergymen, or even the English dissenters. I have, on every occasion, when John Knox and Queen Mary have been the subjects of conversation, been glad to hear regrets that the stern Reformers was so harsh to "poor Mary." But John Knox was the man needed in his day and generation—a softer, gentler, milder man could not have done his work.

I spent some days in Glasgow last week.—The Cathedral is now fully restored, and was

walls, after the fashion of the Episcopal Cathedrals in England. Presbyterian service, in all its simplicity, performed in a magnificent Cathedral, strikes the mind as strange; but I am glad that the Glasgow people have given evidence of their appreciation of fine architecture, by restoring their lofty pile to more than its prestine beauty; and they are really intending to introduce stained glass into the windows.—What would John Knox have said to such an innovation as this? I almost fancied, as I trod the splendid and richly adorned edifice, (seeing how it had been beautified, and hearing how it was to be farther decorated,) I heard the voice of the great, now no longer harsh, dissonant, and disputant, "of the earth, earthly," but full, clear, and melodious, saying, in accents of loving tenderness, from heaven, "I fear, lest by any means, as the serpent beguiled Eve through his subtlety, so your minds should be corrupted from the simplicity that is in Christ." I revisited the fine crypt, (of Rob Roy notoriety,) and greatly enjoyed my wanderings up and down the vast aisles above and below—the more so, my kind chaperon was one who knows how to be silent as well as how to talk, and never says the wrong thing at the wrong time. The effect of a view or a place, is often entirely destroyed by over description, or explanation—at least, so I think: We drove that same morning to "SIGHT HILL CEMETERY," which commands a fine view of "Lofty Ben Lomond," and the surrounding hills; and had a meditative walk in that beautiful resting place of "them that are asleep;" reading inscriptions on the tomb stones, and moralizing (as thousands had done before us) on the transitory nature of all earthly things. I have not CRABBE'S POEMS here, or I would transcribe the exquisitely touching poem my friend repeated; and that would form a good ending to this (I fear) tedious letter. I have, of necessity, omitted to mention many of my journeyings. My charming day at Arbroath, I must tell you about another time. I have made an engagement to visit Edinburgh Castle to-morrow morning, if the weather be fine, and the day clear. I have had, when in Edinburgh, engagements (more or less) for every day; breakfast, dinners, and evening engagements follow each other in rapid