George Jeffery Diary 1900

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N.M.821

Copy of Diary of George Frederick Jeffery on the expedition of the H.M.S. "Protector" to the Boxer Rebellion China

Commenced August 6th 1900. We left Port Adelaide on the 6th August and had fair wind and weather to Sydney. Arrived at Sydney August 10th, coaled on the 11th and sailed 12th. Arrived in Brisbane on the 14th; Captain came aboard and stopped all leave for a start. The Governor of Queensland came aboard and wished us good luck etc. Coaled same night and sailed on the 15th. Arrived in Townsville 18th, coaled and sailed same day.

Anchored in Torres Strait, 19th, 20th, 21st, arrived at Thursday Island 22nd and started at once to coal ship. Next day we went alongside of jetty for water, the soldiers running it in hoses from the shore end. All kinds of people in this place. We sailed next day. After leaving Thursday Is. we passed some very lovely scenes on the shore, both sides lined with Cocoanut and Banana Trees.

On Wednesday 29th we crossed the line, and there being a lot of new items on board, of course Neptune was carried out in full force. After dinner a large awning was spread on the quarter deck and filled with water, about 300 gallons, and a platform arranged above. At 3pm the Officers were all seated aft when the grand procession came over the bow. Operations commenced. There was Father Neptune, his wife, doctor and assistant, barber and boy. The name of each new chum was read out and Neptune's 14 stalwart policemen lead him forward. First he was examined by the doctor who gave each man a soft soap pill and handed him over to the barbers boy who smothered him in lather and rolled him on to the stage where the barber finished him off according to how he was liked in the ship. First he worked up and down your face with a large wooden razor, then scrubbed you with a broom, then gave you a sudden push and over you went into the awning where there were 4 more men ready to duck till you were exhausted. Then you thought it was your place to assist in ducking the others. This operation lasted about 2 hours when we finished with a concert on the Flying deck, with the Captain and officers in the audience.

Arrived in Ilo Ilo on Sunday Sept 2nd at 2.30pm, a town captured by the Americans. They are still fighting the insurgents about 4 miles inland, so we will not be allowed to land. The natives are very funny chaps here. They sail about in catamarans and while they were coaling us we had two sentries on guard all the time. Some of them were very friendly. We had one on the whale's back (!). In the evening one of the coaling party dressed him with a soldiers coat and was drilling him with a broom for a rifle.

Last edit about 4 years ago by catslover
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They wanted him to keep the coat but he was frightened of the Americans. There are two Yankee man-of-war in the Harbour.

Left Ilo Ilo for Hong Kong Sept 5th. The reason we called Ilo Ilo was that the coal would not last till we reached Manila. After leaving Ilo Ilo we caught in the end of a cyclone which lasted till we reached Hong Kong, Sunday 9th 1p.m. It is a fine harbour. There are a lot of English man-of-war here. One the Argonaut is a very large one with 4 funnels and 650 hands on board. Five or six Torpedo boats and destroyers. There is one large German man-of-war and 1 American.

There was leave for the port watch from 4 till 10p.m. so I went straight into the Naval Canteen and changed all my money into Dollars & Cents. One China dollar equals about 2/- and there are 100 cents in a dollar. There are hundreds of sampans on the river; most of them are bum boats who hawk all sorts of things. As soon as we were moored they flocked around us like a swarm of bees. All along the shore there are small carts called rickshaws everywhere you go. Myself and several others got in one each and off we went, a chow pulling us along as fast as a horse. We went about 2 miles. Had a look around and met 2 American man of wars men. They took us to a shop where we could get a good feed for 30 cents. Our leave expired and we went aboard.

On Tuesday 11th, we hauled down our Colonial colours and hoisted the White Ensign, and at once went under the routine of the Harbour Fleet. On Sunday 16th we went to church on HMS Tamar. In the afternoon some of the Port watch went for a picnic in a launch and we did have a picnic I can assure you, only one lady in the company. It was a very pretty sight sailing among the Islands. We steamed for about 20 miles, and some of us went ashore. When they were coming back the dinghy capsized alongside. We had to get steam up and go after the oars then. We returned about 8 o'clock.

On Monday morning we went ashore to the ranges and had a day's class firing with magazine rifles. On Tuesday we got orders to proceed to Shanghai next day. We got under way on Wednesday Sept 19th at 2.30 p.m. We entered the Yang-Tse-Kiang river on Sunday at noon (23rd) and proceeded up. We passed 4 British men of war, 1 French, 3 German, 1 Jap, and one Chinese Fort. We anchored just in front of a German Torpedo Boat Destroyer "Hela". All foreign men-of-war have an English Boat close to them. This place is called Woo Sung. The water is quite fresh for washing yourself & clothes. We washed our clothes in it on Monday night. We are going to Shanghai in the morning. At 5 A.M. on Tuesday Sept. 25th we hove up anchor & proceeded up the River to Shanghai. We passed about 20 men-of-war in the river before coming to anchor. Several English officers came on board & we were ordered to proceed to Takee on Wednesday, but on account of watering & coaling we did not get away until Thursday at 10 a.m.

Last edit about 4 years ago by catslover
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On Wednesday night a curious incident happened at about 1 a.m. A passenger steamer (river) ran into us on the Port Bow carrying away the port lower boom. Everyone turned out of his hammock and really thought we were attacked but after a bit of fooling around in the darkness she disappeared. We were soon asleep again but not for long. We had hardly got to sleep when there was another collision and the same confusion ensued. This time it was a junk run against us, but after a diggings of a row among the chinese on the boat she was soon cleared.

Next morning we glided down the river coming to attention every time we passed a war ship. As we passed the "Undaunted" we stopped to take signals. She said that we were to proceed to Wei-Hai-Wei on the way to Taku and as there was a typhoon raging outside we were at liberty to return if we thought it too rough. We came to anchor at 4 p.m. just inside the mouth of the river and at 6 a.m. next day got under way & arrived at Wei-Hai-Wei at 7 a.m. on Sunday 30th.

Anchored within 150 yards of HMS Terrible. They signalled us inviting Captain and Officers aboard to see the ship and to lunch, after which we were to leave at 1.30 p.m. for Taku, which we did. We sighted Taku at 1 p.m. on Monday 1st October and a fine sight it was. There were about 60 vessels, men of war and troopships stretching across the gulf, forming a line it would have been impossible to pass without going within about 50 yards of one of them. We fired a salute of 15 guns for the Admirals, and came to the anchorage close to the HMS "Centurion" about 12 miles from Taku. The "Centurion" and another of HM Ships got under way at 5 p.m. leaving orders for us to proceed to Chang Quang Twa next day at 4 p.m. (Tuesday).

We sailed at the appointed time & arrived there at 7.30 p.m. on Wednesday October 3rd. I steerred her into this place, the first port we have entered when I was at the wheeel. We anchored close to HMS "Dido" and she signalled us to send half of ships company ashore armed snd equipped at once. B company were fallen in and had their accoutrements provided, 150 rounds of ammunition served out to each man and 2 launches came to take us ashore. We steamed alongside the Admirals' Yacht and the Captain went aboard and when he came back the first order he gave was "Full speed for Taku" which made every man that was picked, mad.

We left Chang Quang Twa at once (about 11 AM) and arrived in the Taku anchorage again 10 that night so we are still here (4th) waiting for orders. On Sunday October 7, we coaled ship out of the flat collier "Ashmore". We put 75 tons in 6 hours. Admiral Seymore signalled "coaling well executed". On the 8th Admiral Seymore came aboard & inspected us about 3 o'clock and at 5 we weighed anchor and sailed.

Last edit about 4 years ago by catslover
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On the 9th we arrived at Chang Quang Twa at 9.30 a.m. Delivered mails & sailed at 10.30. At 12.30 same day we arrived at Shan-Hai-Kwan and anchored at the end of the Great Chinese Wall. There are British, Austrian, Japanese, French, Russian & Italian flags flying on shore just at the end of the wall.

On the 10th I went ashore and had a look at the Forts. The Forts are armed with Krupp Guns, 6 inch, 8 inch & 9[illegible], well situated to withstand any bombardment from the naval fleet as well as from inland. I then went up to the Joss house and saw all the Chinese Idols on the way as I went along the road. It was lined with trees which looked very pretty. On each side were graves & vegetable gardens alternately all the way along. There are soldiers of all nations ashore. They have their flags planted everywhere On the the 11th we picked up the German, Russian, French, Japanese & British Captains & Admirals here at Shan-Hai-Kwan and took them down to Chang Quang Tan where we landed them and at 6 that night we took them back to their ships.

On the 12th I, with a boat's crew went dragging for the cables of submarine mines but did not find any. On the 15th we sailed for Newchuang and arrived the next day, 16th. We took two British military officers up with us. There are only Russian men-of-war here. We are the only British boat here at present. In the afternoon the British Consul of Newchuang and his wife came aboard and were shown around the ship. The Russians seem to have the run of this place. The Russians, I believe beheaded 12 Boxers here today.

On the 17th I went ashore in Newchuang in the evening and had a look around for two hours. There is nothing to see. The markets are the most numerous sights. There is nothing but Russians & Chinamen ashore I saw a Boxer rifle in the Post Office. It has a bore about 3/4 of an inch in diameter. It takes two to work it, one to rest it on his shoulder and the other to fire it. On the 18th we sailed again for Shan Hai Kwan taking 7 chinamen with us and the military officers back again besides a lot of stores for the soldiers.

We arrived Shan Hai Kwan on the 19th and landed all the stores. Got paid for the month ending September 30th 19th to 21st just on harbour routine, nothing particular doing. On the evening of the 21st, Sunday, we were surprised by a lot of the Goliath men coming aboard wet through. They were coming off from the shore with the steam launch and towing a dinghy when, about half way out to us their boat capsized. All the Goliath men were picked up alright but 3 chinamen were lost. Thirty of the Goliath men stayed aboard of us that night.

[mark made by different writing implement] On the 22nd we dressed up in honour of the Emperor of Germany's Birthday. All the men of war in the harbour were dressed. 23rd, ordinary Harbour routine. On the 24th we took 3 military officers down to Chang [?] Hai-Kwan.

Last edit about 4 years ago by catslover
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In the evening of the 26th the Galley & Jolly had a race. The Galley won There was great rivalry between the two boats. 27th to 29th, just working about the ship, nothing particular doing. 31st - blowing hard all day, thermometer down to 35 degrees.

Nov 2nd we went to Chan Quang Tan & brought some Royal Engineers up to Shan Hai Kwan & took [them?] back in the evening and anchored at Chang Quang Tan that night. Nov. 3rd went to Shan Hai Kwan in the morning and went back in the evening. We dressed ship in honour of the Emperor of Japan's birthday. November 4th (Sunday) we went aboard a merchant steamer, the "Hsi Ping" and unloaded a lot of timber and let it drift ashore.

Last night, Nov 5th, we got news to say that we were to proceed home! This morning we went to Shan Hai Kwan and when we were leaving there the crew of HMS. "Dido" gave three cheers for the "Protector", one for the Captain of the "Pro" & one for Australia. We replied by giving three for the Dido, three for the old country, one for the captain and one for their good luck on the China station.

In the evening she was rolling heavily and one lee lurch she unhooked the first cutter and she swung in the gripes. We got her aboard alright. On the 6th we arrived in Wei-Hai-Wei and got everything ready for coaling next day. Nov 7th, coaled and watered ship at sailed for Hong Kong 9 o'clock the same evening. Nov 11th, Sunday. Church - blowing hard all day - In the evening it rose to a perfect hurricane, the heaviest blow we have been in since we left Nov 12th - we arrived in the mouth of Hong Kong harbour.

Nov 13th - up at 4AM, scrub and wash desk and paint work at 7 AM weighed anchor and arrived in Hong Kong 7.45AM. H.M.S. "Peacock" "Argonaut" and "Astra", also the British storeship "Humber" there. The transport ["Salamis"?] with six Naval [Brigades?] men on the sick list is also lying here. Nov 14th - we went on boat drill. We pulled and sailed right across the bay. We saw dozens of sunken junks that were swamped in the typhoon last Saturday. There is also a dredge sunk, drowning 1 Englishman and 50 Chinese. Nov 15th - we returned all our winter clothing & [mastard?} guns

Nov 18th - We went on H.M.S "Tamar" to church, and in the afternoon I went up to the Peak. It is a very extensive view; can see nearly all around Hong Kong Island and looking down on the Town & harbour it looks very pretty. Nov 19th - we went into the Naval dry dock There are several vessels in dock, both Naval and Merchantmen. Came out of dock Nov 22nd at 3pm. Nov 23rd - coaled, watered & stored ship ready for sea. Last night we had our last leave in China.

Last edit about 4 years ago by catslover
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