Vernon Smith's Diary Part 1

Saturday 24th [underlined] (Continued) do "sentry go" while the others were stone-knapping under the cliffs. Returned on board with the other party under Mr. Williamson (who had been looking for water) & we got undersail about noon. Made a big circuit in rounding Cape Hay, on the W side of the entrance to Port Keats, as a long dangerous reef runs out from the point. Had a rough time as there was a nasty sea running. Slept on the hatchway as usual. Sunday 25th [underlined]. Woke rather sore about the corners! After daylight the foresail was reefed, & subsequently taken in. Sea continued with a nasty jobble 'till we made the land N of Point Pearce, anchoring near the spot where Commander Stokes was speared 7/12/39 (which was 3 miles S of us). After an early lunch the party went ashore & examined reefs to S. & Creek to N. of landing place. Fishing was tried, but the usual 2 sharks was all that resulted (it is becoming quite proverbial!) though I did get a couple of small crabs on the line, which were added to the "Museum bottle". On the return of the party @ 4p.m., it was decided to remain where we were for the night, as the skipper had not had much rest the night before. Did some writing & turned in at 9p.m. The wind, which was blowing from the SE. was very keen.

Monday 26th [underlined] Sail was set on the first approach of daylight & we soon encountered the same nasty jobble of a sea which we experienced on Saturday & Sunday. Water found its way through the decks in many places, 'till it only wanted in quantity to provide the luxury of a showerbath. The sea continued to become more muddy, as we approached the mouth of the Fitzmaurice River; a large quantity of mud is also brought along the coast from the Victoria, which is now also close handy. Anchored at midday among a number of sandbanks off the mouth of the former River, but there were over 15 fathoms under us. Tried fishing, but the tide & depth were against us. Were too far off any of the banks to pull over. The awning was spread & usual cleaning up gone through. Some games were played, & after a bit of supper, all hands turned in. Tuesday 27th. [underlined] Up before daylight. Fishing, but no fish about. Amused myself hauling up pink shrimps which adhered to the bait. We had to wait for a wind, & the heat was great after the sun rose, & the sea had that glassy look so often seen in the Tropics. After breakfast a light breeze was seen on the water, & we soon had sail set when it reached us. Passed Quoin Island and later Observation Is. which are low sandy flats, covered for the most part by high spg. tides. Entered mouth of Victoria R.

Tuesday 27th [underlined] (Continued) & anchored in mid-channel shortly after lunch. A very strong tide runs here & fishing, tho' tried, was of no use. I caught a crab, after had succeeded in reaching bottom by putting 3 sinkers on the line. The water is muddy in patches, tho' it is not nearly so thick as the Daly R. water, which is more like pea soup! Made a flag, after Mr. Basedow's design, of turkey-twill & a calico flour-bag, but Mr. Brown did not like it, so it will not be flown. Went to bed at 11.30p.m. having waited for the turn of the tide, to give fishing another trial. Wednesday 28th [underlined]. Up before sunrise - fishing again- usual luck - give it up. Breakfast over & scrubbing down finished, everyone "took it easy" - mostly lounging about, wherever the could find a spot - or reading. Neither being much in my line, overhauled fishing tackle, aired bedding & clothes etc. etc. Sun hot. The surroundings of this anchorage are a change in scenery at any rate. Behind us lies the sea, on the left bank - which is low lying ground grows a belt of mangroves; the right bank is muddy & flat with hills beyond, while ahead are several hills & ranges of fair height - the 2 most prominent ones being Indian Hill & Leading Hill, which when bought into line make a splendid guide to navigators coming up the channel.

Wednesday 28th [underlined] (Continued) Had a splendid run up the River, wind & tide being favourable, & anchored in Blunder Bay (15 fath.) in time for a party to make an afternoon journey ashore, more to get a general idea of how the land lay, than anything. The Skipper also went ashore to look for water, which was the main object of our coming here. He found good water in 2 or 3 places. Our people returned after sunset. Loman had been with them & had shot a squatter pigeon, which, on plucking he presented to me. Wanted to retire early, but could not get the hatch till after 11p.m. Thursday 29th [underlined] proved a big day. The Skipper with his crew had the dinghy away for water before sunrise. The anchor had dragged in the small hours of the morning there not being sufficient cable out. Consequently we had drifted half a mile or so up stream, on the incoming tide. However, sail was set, & though there was no wind, the tide changing enabled us to make the original anchorage by keeping her head in toward the bank, at an angle. Water-carrying was kept going 'till about 4p.m. when everyone had a well-earned rest. The water hole was about a mile from the ship & as the route lay across some grassy plains which had lately been burnt, leaving a

Thursday 29th [underlined] great many hard points to the square foot, sticking up worse than stubble, it was a trying ordeal for the feet of those carrying, - as, of course, they wore no boots. Our people went ashore immediately after breakfast & took their washing up to the water-hole aforesaid. They, of course, took popguns & peashooters, and when I got up there, (having landed with the skipper in the following "launch") I found under a tree, 3 shot guns & a rifle, while Messrs Brown & Basedow, (who had gone off exploring together) each had a rifle & a revolver. Mr Gee had got his washing fairly under weigh. He also had a revolver in his belt, & I had taken a new shotgun, known as "Edward the Seventh". Helped Mr Gee with washing, & shot a parrot (with the "specimen gun" - a small-bore Winchester.) Then carved on big bottle-tree (Boabab) VS VENTURE 1905. We got skipper to bring us billy, tea, sugar & a bit of tucker, & had quite a nice little picnic-lunch - Only the other 3 gentlemen, tempted by the supply of fresh water available, could not resist the temptation to have a bath - or "bogie" as they call it up here. Consequently their tea got a bit cold, but there is no doubt they valued the "bogie" much higher. Later in the afternoon, Mr Basedow came up with me to a spot higher up the water course, while I had a swim. It was