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Harpwench at May 03, 2024 05:47 PM

03211917 8

8 THE PIEDMONT, GREENVILLE, S. C., WEDNESDAY, MARCH 21, 1917

[columns 1-4, top section]

[sketch of women wearing various lingerie]
Especially Lovely is this Season's Lingerie
by Dorothy Dale

THE enchanted princess never
dreamt of anything half so dainty
as the array of lingerie, distin-
guished not only for its beauty of de-
sign but also for the excellent quality
of its materials which greet your eye
this spring time. In [blurry] days, rarely
could one find complimentary in-
expensive feminine intimate apparel
combined with fine workmanship and
exquisite material, and thus one paid
an exhorbitant price—[iar?] more than
one needs pay now for hand stitched
and embroidered garments at the
snowy underworld of lingerie.

The garments made and embroi-
dered in the Philippine Islands are
extraordinarily fine; the less expensive
can be detected from the more costly
only in the quality of the materials or
in the amount of embellishment used.

Scorn not the "machine made" lin-
gerie, for the shops are flooded with
these [racks?] of exceptionally lovely
materials. There are so many and
varied novelties—dainty and practical
trifles—that to tell of them would be
a serial story without end, or like the
"Arabian Nights," take a thousand and
one nights. Crepe de Chine, Crepe
Georgette, Washable Satins, Voile de
Sole, Chiffon, lin Batisto and Sheer
Pearlin rank in the foreground
of materials. Pink is still the [blurry]
ally of fastidious women, but white
will not be outed from her affec-
tions. Orchid is one of the new colors
to which the deft-fingered French
women have contributed their hand-
work. Many of the garments are em-
broidered in pastel shades. Equally
dainty are the Oriental designs em-
broidered in delicate colors.

Some of the finest lingerie thinks
itself best adorned with [blurry],
Torchon, Valenciennes, or Irish lace
—not only white but in tinted tones
and has a strong prejudice for inser-
tions rather than edges. Ribbon
run through casings, cluster tacks,
scallops, hem-stitching, [showed?] bou-
quets of ribbon, insets, delicate [illegible]
[illegible] of embroidery, all do their level
best toward adorning silken garments
or these over which old Dame Cotton
sill holds sway.

Applique has entered the field; fre-
quently the work is done in a con-
trasting color with work in [blurry]
color and vision an oddity you might
not be incline to wear but like to
hear about. Empire style chemises
hold first place and all these, either
imported or domestic, are very short
with shoulder straps of ribbon or
tulle. An artful combination of petti-
coat drawers and chemise befrills
itself with Valenciennca and is cer-
tainly versatile, for you would not
think of its being anything more than
a petticoat; not so however. The
deep panel down the front conceals a
biforcated garment.

[article continues on column 2, top section]

Another mainstay of lace are many
undergarments of different kinds,
joined by thin silk, and
adorned with ribbons. Woven under-
wear includes nightgowns in its foll-
owing. These are usually made in
[blurry] fashion and likeable for their
valuable qualities. With only a sugges-
tion of a sleeve, a small robe is topped
with an inlay yoke with low cut neck
line and coquetish rosettes of ribbon.
The body is of Empire style, with
[illegible] hemmed. Pick wash-
able satin [faded out] a delicate night
dress; the [faded out] and apologies for
sleeves [faded out] lace and Georgette
ribbon [faded out]. This gown proudly
[blurry] all the [faded out] and embroidered dots it
can in the Nattier Line.

Another flesh-colored Crepe de
Chine back-hemstitched bands of laven-
dar color Georgette crepe at neck and
sleeves, wide ribbons flow from the
[illegible] belt and from the V neck,
which is held in place by crochet lin-
gerie tone which in many gowns is
preferred to ribbon for heading. A
charming conventional design of buds,
French knot embroidery and smart
[blurry] instilled touches of
[exposable?] in the upper part.

Lingerie de luxe is perfected in a set of
triple maille Voile underwear. Not
relying upon lace trimming, these
models have handsome hand-embroi-
dered motifs of buttercups.

For costumes of somber color dark-
ness points the way. A black lace com-
bination lightened with colored rib-
bons shows the French of it by a pink
satin rose upon the bodice and a ribbon
which is run around about the shirred
waist line and once over each shoul-
der.

What about the petticoats? Having
widened to the utmost limit they may
again take unto themselves a new
shape to conform with the slim sil-
ouettes. Favored colors of tan with a
pinkish tinge, grays, all the leading
suit colors, are viewed with interest.
For practicality, changeable taffetas,
silk Jersey, Foulard, Pongee and Satin
are attracting attention. Ruffles of
satin or taffetas, plain or striped form
trimming. A skirt of rose taffeta has
the pattern outlined in silk embroidery
in old blue. Flesh color messelaine
or net underskirts are flounced with
Nattier blue faille for evening wear.

Black net Chantilly or Point
d'espirit, trimmed with applique motifs
of roses have been created to satisfy
the demand with black evening gowns.
In whatever color one sees fit, fouldard
petticoats have quillings of their own
material. Jersey petticoats with [raf?]-
ters of Jersey, are banded with silk
ribbons in every hue of the rainbow.
More plebian are the white skirts of
sateen, [puque?] or wash silk in many
capricious designs, to wear with sport
skirts.

[article continues on column 3, top section]

The tendency of negligees, even in
those of the simplest, is to derive their
ideal upon the new dresses. The
kimonos are made a little more formal
than the ordinary ones and might be
worn as a house dress. Pleasing for
her hours of ease is a room robe of
deep rose crepe de chine, flaunting a
flamboyant flower of fine chenille em-
broidery in purple and green. Ribbons
of rose satin hold the negligee where
the folds of the material are caught
strangely at the right side.

A Teagown called any other name
is just as charming. It is made of
periwinkle blue crepe, the straight
bodice has shoulder bands of black
net and a cape-like panel of black
lace attached to the back of the bodice
has openings through which the bands
are held in a bracelet-like effect. The
rather full skirt caught up on the sides
by a blue and gold ornament shows
a filmy petticoat underneath.

Corsets Aid the Graceful Contour.

WHO ever heard of filet
lace corsets? Well, if one
can afford it, there are cor-
sets of every kind. It may surprise
you to pay a little more for your cor-
set than you have been accustomed
but the increasing cost of steel and
cotton has raised the prices a little.
There is a distinct type of corset for

[article continues on column 4, top section]

every need. Corsets are short in the
bust line, straight back and front with
a nipped-in curve at the side fronts,
the skirts are a trifle longer but often
of even length. Flexibility is the key-
note of the new corsery, for the
natural curve is the edict of those who
know. Pink corsets in dotted, striped
or novelty materials have as their
rival white ones. For the slender
woman or miss who requires a low
bust type there are corsets with elastic
banding at the top.

Brassieres are here to stay—they
are considered as important a part
of a woman's underwear as her corset.
The brassiere finishes what the corset
attempts to do, and conceals the line
where the corset terminates, also
serves as a bit of lingerie, taking the
place of chemise or corset cover.

They are variously made of wide
ribbon, strong nets, crepe de chine,
and lace, tricot, trimmed elaborately
or plain, but always with the idea of
holding the figure strongly. The touch
of richness is given a Madeira hand-
embroidered brassiere by its insertions
of brussels lace. Dainty brassieres of
silver and lace are much in demand
for evenings under sheer bodices.
One of pink satin and [elnoy?] lace is
made in a wide band which encircles
the bust and gives some support.
______________________________________
[return to column 1, bottom section]

[image of woman wearing hat]
DRESS
By Anne Rittenhouse

The acceptance of the long, narrow
evening gown makes all the others
immediately appear out of the picture

New York, March 20.—It is out of
the cherished desires of the majority
of women not to indulge in a new
[blurry] for the evening when spring
comes.

Those who journey in fashionable
and expensive resorts in January are
quite willing to renew their evening
clothes, and the same thing is true
when July comes, but during March
and April, there is always a feeling
of lassitude regarding formal night
gayety. Lent brings relaxation; the
warmer weather suggests informal
gatherings. In great centers, the op-
eras have ended, the new plays at the
theaters have run out, the majority
of hostesses have done their part in
social entertaining and all society set-
tles down to enjoy itself in a more
human and natural manner than was
possible during the winter months.

Freshening Old Gowns.

Those women who do not cling to
the higher stratum of society in all its
forms and methods of enjoyment,
feel even more keenly than the fash-
ionable women this desire not to both-
er about new evening gowns as the
Spring approaches. They like to fur-
bish up the old ones they own; they
add a bit of tulle here, a new bodice
lining there; they replace torn sleeve
with a fresh one and thus, after en-
livining the evening outfit by deft
touches, they hang the gowns back
into the closet and confidently believe
that they will serve until next autumn.

In the usual run of events, this
course is justifyable and satisfying;
but this year, the new [silhoutte] has
upset all such plans of economy and
saving of vitality. The gowns of yes-
terday appear out of picture as
against the new ones that have ar-
rived from Paris. The frill, fluff and
furbelow of the skirts that we have
[cut off]

[article continues on column 2, bottom section]

[sketch of woman wearing evening gown]

Empire gown of blue chiffon em-
broidered in silver and finished with
silver fringe. It has a black satin
sash and a short, embroidered train.

This note was sounded last October.
Those who had a weather wise eye
on the wind vane of fashion knew
by the tokens that came from France
that cuffs and ruffles were out; but
[cut off]

[article continues on column 3, bottom section]

a general soap bubble appearance.

Paris, however, aided by the Ameri-
can designers has put this type of
evening gown out of commission. The
youngsters, of course, will continue to
wear it; it is not for them to adopt
the stately Directorie or the First
Empire. They look better in a modi-
fied version of the gown as worn un-
der the Bourbon reign.

But those who want to be in fashion
and those who want to look slim and
stately, will not hesitate to adopt the
new evening gown which rules all the
others and is but an accentuation of
those put out last October.

Slim Satin Hips.

The new evening gown has immense
dignity, although it is simply
constructed. The effort made by the
designers is to introduce ornamenta-
tion that does not break the long
straight line from shoulder to floor.

The gown which is sketched today
is an excellent evidence of what the
smart women have already accepted
and what the women who are not rich
or fashionable have had thrust upon
them as a sign and symbol that the
other kind of evening gown will not
do.

It is of turquoise blue chiffon em-
broidered in silver, and it is dropped
over a slim satin slip in flesh color.
These is a silver fringe around the
exceedingly narrow hem, and the sash
is of black satin. The bodice is heavily
embroidered in silver to match the
lower half of the short train. The
sleeves are mere wisps of the chiffon
weighted with silver embroidery.

Observe the coiffure, because it was
the first evidences of the revival of the
First Empire fashions to be accepted
by the smart set of New York City.

THE HOUSEHOLD
(Edited by Anne Rittenhouse.)

On the subject of tea or coffee few
persons are neutral. Certainly no na-
tions are.

If you ask an acquaintance which
beverage he prefers, or which bever-
age is superior, his answer is sure to
be dogmatic. He tells you either that
coffee or tea—as the case may be —
is the better, never that he thinks it
is the better.

It is obvious from studying the sta-
tistics of tea and coffee importation
and consumption that nations, like per-
sons, have strong prejudices in this
respect. England and Ireland are es-
pecially fond of tea. Not only are they
fond of it, but they are thoroughly
convinced that tea is less harmful and
has more benefits than coffee.

France shows a marked preference

[article continues on column 4, middle section]

for coffee and to a certain extent so
does Germany. Austria is a coffee lov-
ing country. Russia takes to tea. In
this country we are decidedly fonder
of coffee than our British cousins. If
neutrality does exist on this subject,
it is with us. We take coffee for our
breakfast and tea for luncheon or in
the afternoon. The tendency is toward
an increasing fondness for tea in the
most sections, perhaps because af-
ternoon tea drinking is becoming to
be more and more fashionable.

Almost all army authorities, espec-
ially those who have been through
actual service, speak of tea and cof-
fee as almost a necessity. An army
authority speaking in this country say
that coffee is generally preferred by
the soldiers; for various reasons, tea
is better in the long run. Every Eng-
lish soldier would tell you that tea
was better for stimulating purposes.
Perhaps it is not strange that the
thing that does work in either case
the ingredient that actually stimu-

[article continues on column 5, middle section]

lates is identical in tea and coffee. It
is what is called sometimes [thein?] in
tea and sometimes called caffein in both
tea and coffee. To a limited extent there
is also caffein in chocolate.

There is one thing about tea that
is certain from actual experiments,
and that is that its refreshing effects
are of longer duration than those of
coffee. One advantage in coffee is
that it may be taken to better advan-
tage with or immediately following
a meal. No Englishman would ever
think of taking tea at the same meal
with meat. The practice of taking
coffee after [diner] is proof enough that
it does not disagree with most per-
sons. The fact that it does retard
digestion slightly, but this retarding
is of benefit in a healthy person.

One disadvantage in tea is that
there are more ways of making it
badly than there are of making coffee.
Coffee may taste atrocious enough
when steeped all day, but it does not
[blurry] an actual [blurry], whereas tea
that has been stewed for many hours,
as it frequently is in Ireland, be-
comes full of tanin and is said
in some cases so to poison the system
as to result in insanity. Tanin is
not what makes tea stimulating.
Therefore, tea with a strong taste is
not so stimulating nor so bracing as
tea that is free from this taste.

[article continues in column 6, top paragraph]

The thein or caffein in tea, which is
the stimulant and the bracing agent,
is extracted after the application of
boiling water for the first three or
four minutes. The tannin is not lib-
erated until after this. When the tea
is boiled an abominable amount of
tannin is released, but the tea is not
thereby made one whit the more stim-
ulating.
--------------------o-------------------
[return to column 3, bottom section]

[advertisement for headache powders]

STOPS HEADACHE,
PAIN, NEURALGIA

----------o----------
Don't Suffer! Get a dime pack
of Dr. James Headache
Powders

----------o----------
You can clear your head and relieve
a dull, splitting or violent throbbing
headache in a moment with a Dr.
James Headache Powder. This old-
time headache relief acts almost magi-
cally. Send some one to the drug store
now for a dime package and a few mo-
ments after you take a powder you
will wonder what became of the head-
[cut off]

[column 4, bottom section]

[advertisement for Estes and Torrence clothing, spans cols. 4-7, bottom section]


Phone
2046
ESTES AND TORRENCE, INC,
212 North
Main Street

The Nearness to Easter Intensifies the Desire
for New Spring Suits, Coats and Dresses

Daily arrivals keep our assortment of Popular-priced
Garments new and fresh.

They are exclusive---Instead of making you look like
others they make others want to look like you. Large
range of models insures a ready choice of becoming
costumes, each surpassing in style and value. These
qualities---plus genuine service and lower prices---make
this popular store of Ladies' Ready-to Wear.

[left column]
Extraordinary Featuring of
SPRING SUITS

All the newest Spring Style effects, jaunty and
fetchingly becoming. Specially priced—
$11.50, $18.50, $19.50, $22.50

We are not going to tell you just how good the
Suits of this special group are. We want you to be
femininely curious and come to see them. The
models are worthy examples of the best style ideas
of the new season.

Other suits priced $25.00, $27.50, $32.50, $35.00

MODISH SPRING COATS

A wonderful variety of color effects marks the
new season's coat styles. Values, such as those in-
cluded in this special offering will go quickly.
[cut off]

[right column]
Dozens of styles, chic or daring, as well as plain tail-
ored models. Priced $7.50, $10.00. $14.50, $16.50,
$19.50, $22.50

Crepe de Chine and Taffeta Dresses
—A Remarkable Group, at $16.50

Exceedingly clever and decidedly "Different"
are these freshly fashioned frocks of Crepe de Chine
and Taffeta; others in combination with Georgette.
Styles in bewildering profusion and shown in the sea-
son's smartest colors.

Other dresses priced $10, $12.50, $13.50, $22.50, $25

We are showing all the newest colors in Silk Hos-
iery 50c, $1.00 and $1.25.

Newest ideas in Neckwear, Collars, Collar and
Cuff Sets, white and colors. Priced 25c and 50c.

[return to column 5, top section]

[advertisement for limestone phosphate]

SAYS HOT WATER
EACH DAY KEEPS
THE DOCTOR AWAY

----------o----------
Drink glass of hot water before
breakfast to wash out
the poisons.

----------o----------
Life is not merely to live, but to
live well, eat well, digest well, work
well, sleep well, look well. What a
glorious condition to attain and yet
how very easy it is if one will only
adopt the morning inside bath.

Folks who are accustomed to feel
dull and heavy when they arise, split-
ting headache, stuffy from a cold, foul
tongue, nasty breath, acid stomach,
can instead feel as fresh as a daisy
by opening the [sluices?] of the system
each morning and flushing out the
whole of the internal poisonous stag-
nant matter.

Everyone, whether ailing, sick or
well, should, each morning, before
breakfast, drink a glass of real hot
water with a teaspoonful of limestone
phosphate in it to wash from the
stomach, liver, kidneys and bowels
the previous day's indigestible waste,
sour bile and poisonous toxins; thus
cleansing, sweetening and purifying
the entire alimentary canal before
putting more food into the stomach.
The action of hot water and limestone
phosphate on an empty stomach is
wonderfully invigorating. It cleans
out the sour fermentation, gases,
wastes and acidity and gives one a
splendid appetite for breakfast. While
you are enjoying your breakfast the
water and phosphate is quietly ex-
tracting a large volume of water from
the blood and getting ready for a
thorough flushing of all the inside
organs.

The millions of people who are
bothered with contamination, bilious
spells, stomach trouble, rheumatism;
others who have sallow skins, blood
disorders and sickly complexions are
urged to get a quarter pound of lime-
stone phosphate from the drug store
which will cost very little, that is
sufficient to make anyone a pro-
nounced [crank?] on the subject of in-
ternal sanitation.―Adv.

[column 5, second paragraph]

Even in his sleep Deputy Sheriff
Leroy Hillhouse of Woodland, Cal.,
risks life and limb to protect the
county. He dreamed the other night
that he was subduing a negro pris-
oner who had tried to break out of
jail. When he awoke he found that
two bones in his wrist were broken,
evidently from hitting the wall or
bedpost during the struggle.
________________________________________
[Southern Railway schedule, spans cols. 6-7]

SOUTHERN RAILWAY SYSTE[M]
Announces
SPECIAL EXCURSION FARES
From Greenville, S. C.


Destination. Date of Sale. Final Limit. [blurry]
Columbia, S. C., March 14-16, Inc. March 18, 1917 8[cut off]
Greenwood, S. C., March 18-20 Inc. March 24, 1917 9[cut off]
Atlanta, Ga. March 11-18, Inc. March 18, 1917 6[cut off]
New Orleans, La., March 11-13, Inc. March 31, 1917 10[cut off]
Macon, Ga., March 17-Apr. 4, Inc. April 10, 1917 8[cut off]
Atlanta, Ga., April [8-9?], Inc. April 11, 1917 6[cut off]
Washington, D. C., April 10-15, Inc. April 30, 1917 15.[cut off]
New Orleans, La., May 11-15, Inc. May 31, 1917 19.[cut off]
Dallas, Texas, May 12-13, Inc. June 8, 1917 40.[cut off]
Washington, D. C., June 2-7, Inc. June 11, 1917 10.[cut off]
Atlanta, Ga., June 15-17, Inc. June 25, 1917 [5?][cut off]
For complete information, Pullman reservations, etc., come [to the]
nearest Southern Agent or write

W. R. Taber, T. P. A.
J. A. Mills, C. T. [cut off]
Greenville, S. C.

________________________________________
[advertisement for Southeastern Life Ins. Co., spans cols. 6-7]

OUR
DUTY to our dependents de-
mands planning ahead.
Life Insurance is the one
"property" that war and
the high cost of living can
not affect our price.

―OUR―
"Safeguard"
POLICY
will help you plan for your
family.

A. G. TAYLOR, Special Agent,
SOUTHEASTERM LIFE INSURANCE CO.
TAYLORS, S. C.

[column 7]

GOVERNMENT CONTROL[S]
ALL THE RAILROA[DS]

----------o----------
Merke City, March 20.―The [de-]
partment of communications has [an-]
nounced that in future it will be [the]
policy of the government to contro[l and]
supervise the management of all [the]
railroads. It is also announced [that]
the policy of government will [be]
against giving subsities or spe[cial]
privileges to railroads in the fut[ture.]
The government supervision of [the]
railroads will be in the hands of a [com-]
mission of technical inspection and [cut off]
auditing. Hereafter no franchise [of]
a railroad will be given for more t[han]
75 years. It formerly was custom[ary]
to issue franchise for 90 years.

03211917 8

8 THE PIEDMONT, GREENVILLE, S. C., WEDNESDAY, MARCH 21, 1917

[columns 1-4, top section]

[sketch of women wearing various lingerie]
Especially Lovely is this Season's Lingerie
by Dorothy Dale

THE enchanted princess never
dreamt of anything half so dainty
as the array of lingerie, distin-
guished not only for its beauty of de-
sign but also for the excellent quality
of its materials which greet your eye
this spring time. In [blurry] days, rarely
could one find complimentary in-
expensive feminine intimate apparel
combined with fine workmanship and
exquisite material, and thus one paid
an exhorbitant price—[iar?] more than
one needs pay now for hand stitched
and embroidered garments at the
snowy underworld of lingerie.

The garments made and embroi-
dered in the Philippine Islands are
extraordinarily fine; the less expensive
can be detected from the more costly
only in the quality of the materials or
in the amount of embellishment used.

Scorn not the "machine made" lin-
gerie, for the shops are flooded with
these [racks?] of exceptionally lovely
materials. There are so many and
varied novelties—dainty and practical
trifles—that to tell of them would be
a serial story without end, or like the
"Arabian Nights," take a thousand and
one nights. Crepe de Chine, Crepe
Georgette, Washable Satins, Voile de
Sole, Chiffon, lin Batisto and Sheer
Pearlin rank in the foreground
of materials. Pink is still the [blurry]
ally of fastidious women, but white
will not be outed from her affec-
tions. Orchid is one of the new colors
to which the deft-fingered French
women have contributed their hand-
work. Many of the garments are em-
broidered in pastel shades. Equally
dainty are the Oriental designs em-
broidered in delicate colors.

Some of the finest lingerie thinks
itself best adorned with [blurry],
Torchon, Valenciennes, or Irish lace
—not only white but in tinted tones
and has a strong prejudice for inser-
tions rather than edges. Ribbon
run through casings, cluster tacks,
scallops, hem-stitching, [showed?] bou-
quets of ribbon, insets, delicate [illegible]
[illegible] of embroidery, all do their level
best toward adorning silken garments
or these over which old Dame Cotton
sill holds sway.

Applique has entered the field; fre-
quently the work is done in a con-
trasting color with work in [blurry]
color and vision an oddity you might
not be incline to wear but like to
hear about. Empire style chemises
hold first place and all these, either
imported or domestic, are very short
with shoulder straps of ribbon or
tulle. An artful combination of petti-
coat drawers and chemise befrills
itself with Valenciennca and is cer-
tainly versatile, for you would not
think of its being anything more than
a petticoat; not so however. The
deep panel down the front conceals a
biforcated garment.

[article continues on column 2, top section]

Another mainstay of lace are many
undergarments of different kinds,
joined by thin silk, and
adorned with ribbons. Woven under-
wear includes nightgowns in its foll-
owing. These are usually made in
[blurry] fashion and likeable for their
valuable qualities. With only a sugges-
tion of a sleeve, a small robe is topped
with an inlay yoke with low cut neck
line and coquetish rosettes of ribbon.
The body is of Empire style, with
[illegible] hemmed. Pick wash-
able satin [faded out] a delicate night
dress; the [faded out] and apologies for
sleeves [faded out] lace and Georgette
ribbon [faded out]. This gown proudly
[blurry] all the [faded out] and embroidered dots it
can in the Nattier Line.

Another flesh-colored Crepe de
Chine back-hemstitched bands of laven-
dar color Georgette crepe at neck and
sleeves, wide ribbons flow from the
[illegible] belt and from the V neck,
which is held in place by crochet lin-
gerie tone which in many gowns is
preferred to ribbon for heading. A
charming conventional design of buds,
French knot embroidery and smart
[blurry] instilled touches of
[exposable?] in the upper part.

Lingerie de luxe is perfected in a set of
triple maille Voile underwear. Not
relying upon lace trimming, these
models have handsome hand-embroi-
dered motifs of buttercups.

For costumes of somber color dark-
ness points the way. A black lace com-
bination lightened with colored rib-
bons shows the French of it by a pink
satin rose upon the bodice and a ribbon
which is run around about the shirred
waist line and once over each shoul-
der.

What about the petticoats? Having
widened to the utmost limit they may
again take unto themselves a new
shape to conform with the slim sil-
ouettes. Favored colors of tan with a
pinkish tinge, grays, all the leading
suit colors, are viewed with interest.
For practicality, changeable taffetas,
silk Jersey, Foulard, Pongee and Satin
are attracting attention. Ruffles of
satin or taffetas, plain or striped form
trimming. A skirt of rose taffeta has
the pattern outlined in silk embroidery
in old blue. Flesh color messelaine
or net underskirts are flounced with
Nattier blue faille for evening wear.

Black net Chantilly or Point
d'espirit, trimmed with applique motifs
of roses have been created to satisfy
the demand with black evening gowns.
In whatever color one sees fit, fouldard
petticoats have quillings of their own
material. Jersey petticoats with [raf?]-
ters of Jersey, are banded with silk
ribbons in every hue of the rainbow.
More plebian are the white skirts of
sateen, [puque?] or wash silk in many
capricious designs, to wear with sport
skirts.

[article continues on column 3, top section]

The tendency of negligees, even in
those of the simplest, is to derive their
ideal upon the new dresses. The
kimonos are made a little more formal
than the ordinary ones and might be
worn as a house dress. Pleasing for
her hours of ease is a room robe of
deep rose crepe de chine, flaunting a
flamboyant flower of fine chenille em-
broidery in purple and green. Ribbons
of rose satin hold the negligee where
the folds of the material are caught
strangely at the right side.

A Teagown called any other name
is just as charming. It is made of
periwinkle blue crepe, the straight
bodice has shoulder bands of black
net and a cape-like panel of black
lace attached to the back of the bodice
has openings through which the bands
are held in a bracelet-like effect. The
rather full skirt caught up on the sides
by a blue and gold ornament shows
a filmy petticoat underneath.

Corsets Aid the Graceful Contour.

WHO ever heard of filet
lace corsets? Well, if one
can afford it, there are cor-
sets of every kind. It may surprise
you to pay a little more for your cor-
set than you have been accustomed
but the increasing cost of steel and
cotton has raised the prices a little.
There is a distinct type of corset for

[article continues on column 4, top section]

every need. Corsets are short in the
bust line, straight back and front with
a nipped-in curve at the side fronts,
the skirts are a trifle longer but often
of even length. Flexibility is the key-
note of the new corsery, for the
natural curve is the edict of those who
know. Pink corsets in dotted, striped
or novelty materials have as their
rival white ones. For the slender
woman or miss who requires a low
bust type there are corsets with elastic
banding at the top.

Brassieres are here to stay—they
are considered as important a part
of a woman's underwear as her corset.
The brassiere finishes what the corset
attempts to do, and conceals the line
where the corset terminates, also
serves as a bit of lingerie, taking the
place of chemise or corset cover.

They are variously made of wide
ribbon, strong nets, crepe de chine,
and lace, tricot, trimmed elaborately
or plain, but always with the idea of
holding the figure strongly. The touch
of richness is given a Madeira hand-
embroidered brassiere by its insertions
of brussels lace. Dainty brassieres of
silver and lace are much in demand
for evenings under sheer bodices.
One of pink satin and [elnoy?] lace is
made in a wide band which encircles
the bust and gives some support.
______________________________________
[return to column 1, bottom section]

[image of woman wearing hat]
DRESS
By Anne Rittenhouse

The acceptance of the long, narrow
evening gown makes all the others
immediately appear out of the picture

New York, March 20.—It is out of
the cherished desires of the majority
of women not to indulge in a new
[blurry] for the evening when spring
comes.

Those who journey in fashionable
and expensive resorts in January are
quite willing to renew their evening
clothes, and the same thing is true
when July comes, but during March
and April, there is always a feeling
of lassitude regarding formal night
gayety. Lent brings relaxation; the
warmer weather suggests informal
gatherings. In great centers, the op-
eras have ended, the new plays at the
theaters have run out, the majority
of hostesses have done their part in
social entertaining and all society set-
tles down to enjoy itself in a more
human and natural manner than was
possible during the winter months.

Freshening Old Gowns.

Those women who do not cling to
the higher stratum of society in all its
forms and methods of enjoyment,
feel even more keenly than the fash-
ionable women this desire not to both-
er about new evening gowns as the
Spring approaches. They like to fur-
bish up the old ones they own; they
add a bit of tulle here, a new bodice
lining there; they replace torn sleeve
with a fresh one and thus, after en-
livining the evening outfit by deft
touches, they hang the gowns back
into the closet and confidently believe
that they will serve until next autumn.

In the usual run of events, this
course is justifyable and satisfying;
but this year, the new [silhoutte] has
upset all such plans of economy and
saving of vitality. The gowns of yes-
terday appear out of picture as
against the new ones that have ar-
rived from Paris. The frill, fluff and
furbelow of the skirts that we have
[cut off]

[article continues on column 2, bottom section]

[sketch of woman wearing evening gown]

Empire gown of blue chiffon em-
broidered in silver and finished with
silver fringe. It has a black satin
sash and a short, embroidered train.

This note was sounded last October.
Those who had a weather wise eye
on the wind vane of fashion knew
by the tokens that came from France
that cuffs and ruffles were out; but
[cut off]

[article continues on column 3, bottom section]

a general soap bubble appearance.

Paris, however, aided by the Ameri-
can designers has put this type of
evening gown out of commission. The
youngsters, of course, will continue to
wear it; it is not for them to adopt
the stately Directorie or the First
Empire. They look better in a modi-
fied version of the gown as worn un-
der the Bourbon reign.

But those who want to be in fashion
and those who want to look slim and
stately, will not hesitate to adopt the
new evening gown which rules all the
others and is but an accentuation of
those put out last October.

Slim Satin Hips.

The new evening gown has immense
dignity, although it is simply
constructed. The effort made by the
designers is to introduce ornamenta-
tion that does not break the long
straight line from shoulder to floor.

The gown which is sketched today
is an excellent evidence of what the
smart women have already accepted
and what the women who are not rich
or fashionable have had thrust upon
them as a sign and symbol that the
other kind of evening gown will not
do.

It is of turquoise blue chiffon em-
broidered in silver, and it is dropped
over a slim satin slip in flesh color.
These is a silver fringe around the
exceedingly narrow hem, and the sash
is of black satin. The bodice is heavily
embroidered in silver to match the
lower half of the short train. The
sleeves are mere wisps of the chiffon
weighted with silver embroidery.

Observe the coiffure, because it was
the first evidences of the revival of the
First Empire fashions to be accepted
by the smart set of New York City.

THE HOUSEHOLD
(Edited by Anne Rittenhouse.)

On the subject of tea or coffee few
persons are neutral. Certainly no na-
tions are.

If you ask an acquaintance which
beverage he prefers, or which bever-
age is superior, his answer is sure to
be dogmatic. He tells you either that
coffee or tea—as the case may be —
is the better, never that he thinks it
is the better.

It is obvious from studying the sta-
tistics of tea and coffee importation
and consumption that nations, like per-
sons, have strong prejudices in this
respect. England and Ireland are es-
pecially fond of tea. Not only are they
fond of it, but they are thoroughly
convinced that tea is less harmful and
has more benefits than coffee.

France shows a marked preference

[article continues on column 4, middle section]

for coffee and to a certain extent so
does Germany. Austria is a coffee lov-
ing country. Russia takes to tea. In
this country we are decidedly fonder
of coffee than our British cousins. If
neutrality does exist on this subject,
it is with us. We take coffee for our
breakfast and tea for luncheon or in
the afternoon. The tendency is toward
an increasing fondness for tea in the
most sections, perhaps because af-
ternoon tea drinking is becoming to
be more and more fashionable.

Almost all army authorities, espec-
ially those who have been through
actual service, speak of tea and cof-
fee as almost a necessity. An army
authority speaking in this country say
that coffee is generally preferred by
the soldiers; for various reasons, tea
is better in the long run. Every Eng-
lish soldier would tell you that tea
was better for stimulating purposes.
Perhaps it is not strange that the
thing that does work in either case
the ingredient that actually stimu-

[article continues on column 5, middle section]

lates is identical in tea and coffee. It
is what is called sometimes [thein?] in
tea and sometimes called caffein in both
tea and coffee. To a limited extent there
is also caffein in chocolate.

There is one thing about tea that
is certain from actual experiments,
and that is that its refreshing effects
are of longer duration than those of
coffee. One advantage in coffee is
that it may be taken to better advan-
tage with or immediately following
a meal. No Englishman would ever
think of taking tea at the same meal
with meat. The practice of taking
coffee after [diner] is proof enough that
it does not disagree with most per-
sons. The fact that it does retard
digestion slightly, but this retarding
is of benefit in a healthy person.

One disadvantage in tea is that
there are more ways of making it
badly than there are of making coffee.
Coffee may taste atrocious enough
when steeped all day, but it does not
[blurry] an actual [blurry], whereas tea
that has been stewed for many hours,
as it frequently is in Ireland, be-
comes full of tanin and is said
in some cases so to poison the system
as to result in insanity. Tanin is
not what makes tea stimulating.
Therefore, tea with a strong taste is
not so stimulating nor so bracing as
tea that is free from this taste.
_____________________________________
[return to column 3, bottom section]

[advertisement for headache powders]

STOPS HEADACHE,
PAIN, NEURALGIA

----------o----------
Don't Suffer! Get a dime pack
of Dr. James Headache
Powders

----------o----------
You can clear your head and relieve
a dull, splitting or violent throbbing
headache in a moment with a Dr.
James Headache Powder. This old-
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now for a dime package and a few mo-
ments after you take a powder you
will wonder what became of the head-
[cut off]

[column 4, bottom section]

[advertisement for Estes and Torrence clothing, spans cols. 4-7, bottom section]


Phone
2046
ESTES AND TORRENCE, INC,
212 North
Main Street

The Nearness to Easter Intensifies the Desire
for New Spring Suits, Coats and Dresses

Daily arrivals keep our assortment of Popular-priced
Garments new and fresh.

They are exclusive---Instead of making you look like
others they make others want to look like you. Large
range of models insures a ready choice of becoming
costumes, each surpassing in style and value. These
qualities---plus genuine service and lower prices---make
this popular store of Ladies' Ready-to Wear.

[left column]
Extraordinary Featuring of
SPRING SUITS

All the newest Spring Style effects, jaunty and
fetchingly becoming. Specially priced—
$11.50, $18.50, $19.50, $22.50

We are not going to tell you just how good the
Suits of this special group are. We want you to be
femininely curious and come to see them. The
models are worthy examples of the best style ideas
of the new season.

Other suits priced $25.00, $27.50, $32.50, $35.00

MODISH SPRING COATS

A wonderful variety of color effects marks the
new season's coat styles. Values, such as those in-
cluded in this special offering will go quickly.
[cut off]

[right column]
Dozens of styles, chic or daring, as well as plain tail-
ored models. Priced $7.50, $10.00. $14.50, $16.50,
$19.50, $22.50

Crepe de Chine and Taffeta Dresses
—A Remarkable Group, at $16.50

Exceedingly clever and decidedly "Different"
are these freshly fashioned frocks of Crepe de Chine
and Taffeta; others in combination with Georgette.
Styles in bewildering profusion and shown in the sea-
son's smartest colors.

Other dresses priced $10, $12.50, $13.50, $22.50, $25

We are showing all the newest colors in Silk Hos-
iery 50c, $1.00 and $1.25.

Newest ideas in Neckwear, Collars, Collar and
Cuff Sets, white and colors. Priced 25c and 50c.

[return to column 5, top section]

SAYS HOT WATER
EACH DAY KEEPS
THE DOCTOR AWAY

----------o----------
Drink glass of hot water before
breakfast to wash out
the poisons.

----------o----------
Life is not merely to live, but to
live well, eat well, digest well, work
well, sleep well, look well. What a
glorious condition to attain and yet
how very easy it is if one will only
adopt the morning inside bath.