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heard that morning that the stretch from Heidelberg to Heilbronn would be rough biking,
we decided to go on further for the night. So we headed east across the flat valley
toward Bensheim - actually to Heppenheim, where there is a youth hostel. These towns
lie at the foot of a range of high hills (in Germany they are considered
mountains, with run north-south from Darmstadt to Heidelberg. As we came
across the valley toward Heppenheim, the mountains came into view, and on one of
the very highest, right above the town, stood a tall tower, the ruins of an
old fortress. Sure enough, further inquiry indicated that the youth hostel was
in this tower, on top of the hill! So after 70 km biking we finished off the
day with a 45 minute mountain climb, pushing our bikes up the road to
the hostel. But it was surely well worth the effort, for the view in every
direction was breathtaking - out over the large valley to the Rhine, back into
small valleys in the hills, across to other nearby wooded crests, down to
the rooves [roofs] of Heppenheim. After a huge dinner from our packs, we went
out again after dark to walk through the fortress and look out at the lights
of all the villages, a light breeze carrying sounds from miles away through
the still night.

Yesterday morning we rode the 27 km along the foot of the hills into Heidelberg.
All along the way we passed countless blossoming fruit trees - with flowers of
pink, white, yellow, and the light green of new leaves. It was a rainbow
of color on a sunny day. It was fairly easy riding and we were in Heidelberg
by 11 AM. After dropping our gear off at the hostel, we went by the railroad
station to buy the week's Time Magazine, then to American Express to
get mail [two more newsy ones from you Mom, much appreciated as always!]
Then we went to the university mensa (cafeteria) for another good, inexpensive
(30c) hot lunch. And off to walk around the old part of town. By far the most
interesting was the famous Heidelberg "schloss" (there is no good one word
translation, though "castle" is often given - a combination palace and
fortress is as close as I can come). It is mostly a huge Baroque palace, with
statues and columns sculptured into the walls, but the palace is built within
the remains of the medieval fortress, with round turret towers, moat and stone
bridges, etc. Around it are beautiful gardens, with the trees just showing
their brightest spring green.

From the castle terrace there is a full view out over Heidel-
berg and you can begin to appreciate how beautifully situated it is. It's
right at the beginning of the valley of the Neckar, and the city is built only
in the bottom of the valley, the hills above remaining thick with
lush green forests - it's really a perfect romantic setting for a city, with
the river winding back into the hills out of sight. Coming down from
the castle, we located part of the old university, wandered around the old