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to train to Nürnburg. And though it's hard to believe I like Nürnburg
even better than Bamberg. The old city is still very much intact, set off
by the ancient city wall, with its moat and towers at each corner.
In spite of the war most "inner city" is again as it was for
centuries before, though there are also many buildings built anew,
sort of disconnected with the age of the surroundings.

We've wandered all day around the old city, sort of drinking in
the spirit. The youth hostel itself is an old Hollenzollern
castle several hundred years old, but warm and comfortable. Most
of the churches are Protestant (though the surrounding area is
Catholic) and tomorrow morning we're going to services at one, which
I'll describe in more detail. This afternoon we met an old man
who guides American Express Agency tours during the summer.
Quite an interesting old fellow - fought in French Foreign Legion,
spent 10 years at Dachau (Hitler's worst prison camp), had known
Hitler casually here before he was politically powerful, was a translator
at the Nurembourg War Crimes trials (Russian translator, knew well
a close friend of Mary Anne's who was the American translator). He
showed us around to several sports with marvelous side comments
on otherwise unnoticed details. He is rich in the history and
folk lore of Nürnburg as few others could be, and we were lucky
indeed to have him show us around.

It's now 9:45 and almost lights out. Besides I'm near
exhaustion from walking and the cold and the fascination of
the weekend. So, to be continued tomorrow, early I hope,

All my love,

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