Green letters

March 27, 1960

Tonight is a good night to write since it marks the end of one unit of our trip- the journey down the Rhine from Köln to Metz. It has been a thoroughly fascinating four days and in some ways the scenery was quite different from what I expected.

We left Köln Thursday AM and made the 20 kilometers to Bonn by noon. The countryside was not especially interesting, small plots of farm land and small towns, and the trip was really hard work because of a constant headwind. In Bonn we ate lunch in a park beside the old university. Them [then] I sat and even dozed for about 3 hours in the park watching the people strolling along the river bank and the barges moving down the river. It was a leisurely and productive afternoon- did some needed reading for Econ. About 5 PM we rode across the Rhine and about 15 kilometers down- south, although upstream, of course) to the town of Honnef. Here we left the river and climbed for about a mile up to the youth hostel situated on a high hill overlooking the small valley and looking across to the many castles and ruins. By this time we are into the more characteristic Rhine country with hills rising rather steeply up from the river, broken here and there along the way by valleys formed by the entry of a small tributary to the Rhine.

Friday was the day we really began to get acquainted with the Rhine. We went from Honeff to Koblenz, down the east bank. There are good highways down both sides of the river but there are only four auto bridges south of Köln, including one in Metz, so we pretty much had to choose one side and stay there. We chose the road down the east bank because it is less heavily travelled, goes through fewer large cities and stays generally more along the river. As we rode along, many things were as I had expected. There really is a castle or old monastery on about every other hilltop and the rolling hills and colorful river barges were right out of my tourist's anticipation. But we noticed several things which did not fit with the typical tourist description and, to me, these elements made the Rhine a much more interesting place. One thing was that there are many small towns along the river, rarely more than 5 miles apart. Some of these are very old with churches built in the 11th or 12th centuries still standing. Many have fine examples of old half-timbered house construction, of old stone towers or town walls etc. In a sense then they fit with the story of the "romantic Rhine" which every visitor comes to see. But when you consider the next two observations to follow, the townspeople are not so romantic at all and they certainly don't sit around in peasant costumes waiting for tourist trade.

The second thing to notice was the variety and extensiveness of framing operations in the Rhine valley. In the northern end we saw lots of truck farming in high plateaus or gentle slopes above the river, or in the flats right at the river's edge. Gradually, as we have been moving southward, the slopes rise steeply and immediately from the river's edge. At this point truck gardening gives way to vineyards which produce the famous Rhine wines. Every hillside then is not scenic thick, green, virgin forest. On the contrary almost every inch is vineyard. Almost all of them are on lands sloping at 40 degrees or better, sometimes almost straight up. It is unbelievable by American standards that such rocke [rocky], shaily, steep ground should be cultivated. It must of course be worked by hand- plowed, planted, fertilized, sprayed, tended, harvested, etc. It is truly amazing that they grow anything - much less some of the world's best wine. As we move south today (leaving Rudesheim toward Mainz) the steep hills melted away again and vineyards were replaced by truck farms or grasslands, to some extent. All in all, the main impression that every foot of ground produces, with much willing hand labor encouragemt [encouragement],

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the maximum yield.

The third, and at first most surprising observation, was that there is a tremendous amount of industry in the valley. Every town has several good sized factories with huge smoke stacks as prominent as the church spires on the skyline; also in many of the small side valleys there are mining or factory operations. This is really not surprising when you think for a moment of the excellent, cheap transportation available. Not only the river barges, which are seen loading all along the way, but also a steady stream of freight trains running back and forth on sides of the river.

The composite picture I formed in my mind of the Rhine valley is of lovely natural scenery in a romantic, historical setting- the green hills and old towns and castles aspect- plus intense; energetic human acticity [activity]- a busy, active, industrious but jolly and cordial people. They work kard [hard] and well but they like to relax over the good wine too and in Mainz and Coblenz each year they have the best fasching carnival celebrations in all of Germany. Obviously the Rhine is many things at the same time and thus all the more interesting.

If Friday was the day for noting the unexpected, Saturday certainly fulfilled the Rhine's romantix expectations. Actually, this began with the hostel Friday night in Coblentz- actually a part of an old fortress located on a high bluff overlooking the Rhine and the Moselle as it flows into the Rhine, and the city. The old walls, passageways, dark cold rooms etc were right out of the medieval days. And the view of the city was absolutely splendid. About 10 miles south of Coblentz we came upon the Marksburg Castle, the only unruined castle on the Rhine dating in part from the 11th and 12th centuries, last really used in the 18th century. We climbed a path up to the castle- about 400 feet over the river- and spent about 2 hours there. Ate lunch on the walls looking out over the river, wandered around etc. Then we took a brief but fascinating 30 minute tour through the inside of the castle itself. We saw living rooms with walls 9 feet thick (they are 18 feet thick in the cellar) old tables, clothes chests, portraits of former "residents" etc with the dim lighting and chilled air giving the final authenticity. Also a small chapel room with the paint now fading badly from the walls. The kitchen with a fireplace large enough to roast a whole ox. The torture chamber with a stretching rack and other ingenious devices. It was really fascinating and so much more meaningful than seeing all of the items in some museum. This way we really got a total picture of a way of life. As we rode on southward, the towns thinned out and the mountains rose straight up from the river (still planted in many parts with vineyards even so.). The stretch from Braubach to Rudesheim- between Coblentz and Mainz- is the most beautiful for scenery on the Rhine. Many ruins, rugged hills, with the river winding and turning often, the famous Lorelei bend where the river narrows to 350 feet with a sheer rock cliff. All of it was magnificent, even in mostly overcast weather.

We spent Sat. night at the hostel in the town of Lorch, about a mile up the valley of the Wisper river. With a view of both this and the Rhine valley- really a splendid location. After dinner in a small cafe, we went to a local wine house and sampled some excellent Rhine wine and bought

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a bottle to take back to the burh with us to share with Dr. Boerner since he helped us plan our trip and is anyway a generally great guy.

March 28th

Sunday we had a few more mile of the rugged Rhine to Rudesheim, then mostly flat slightly rolling country on into Weisbaden and across to Mainz. The most interesting incident was in passing Bingen where there is a stretch of shallows and very dangerous water. Just about the time we rode by a large barge had run aground and damaged its rudder, tying up traffic behind it as effectively as a big accident on the Bay Bridge. We stopped for about a half hour to watch as the damaged ship drifted carefully backward through the line of companion vessels to find safe anchorage for repairs. Then slowly the waiting boats moved single file cautiously thru [through] the narrow safe water channel. While all this was going on we fired a constant line of questions to an old man standing beside us, and in that half hour we learned a lot of river lore. Once again, traveling by bike and thus seeing so much more of what we pass, and speaking German, made possible the sort of experience which is inaccessible to the average traveler.

In getting into Mainz, we went first to see the cathedral- a sort of white elephant of several architectural styles- built of soft pink marble, and yet to me pleasing in spite of its mixed style. Unfortunately the inside is closed for restoration so we had to miss that part. After stopping briefly to see a monument to Johannes of Guttenburg (who was born and prited [printed] his famous book here in Mainz) we rode on out here to the hostel which is situated on a hill above the Rhine near where the Mainz flows is. It is large (300 beds) and modern ut there were only four of us here last night so it was sort of family style.(

Today is again sunny and beautiful and we are leaving soon to bike on to the city of Worms then on to Heidelberg and mail again!!!!!!!!! where we stay all day Wednesday too. From there probably 3 days back to Beutelsbach. I am glad we have cut our daily travel down to about 50 kilometers. It makes about 6 hours leisurely biking and time to stop and see things. And at night I am still plenty tired to sleep well and the muscles seem to remember each morning that they worked the day before. We were really put to shame last night to learn that one of the fellows staying here came yesterday by bike, a distance by his route of 120 miles, and part of it pretty hilly country too. The day before he had gone from Munich to Stuttgart- so by German standards out [our] efforts are fairly small time as you can see. Of course, we are each carrying about 30 pounds of baggage to weight us down.

March 30th

Another three full days have gone by since I wrote from Mainz and in 3 more we will be back in Beutelsbach. It has been quite a trip- very interesting and much fun but we will both be glad to get back to the burg and see everyone again, and to return to hot showers, really clean clothes, three hot meals a day though our cold ones have been terrific and fun too. We are staying tonight at the hostel in Everbach, between Heidelberg and Heilbronn on the Neckar river. The ride along the Neckar is the last leg of our journey, taking us as far as Ludwigsburg (near Stuttgart) for Friday night. From there we will ride to Beutelsbach Sat morning, probably stay with the

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Krauters Sat night since the burg isn't open until Sunday night.

Monday was a magnificent day- much more interesting than we had expected. In the first place it was warm and sunny so that by 9:30 we had our jackets off and spent the rest of the day in our shirt sleeves- spring weather for sure. The countryside between Mainz and Worms is almost completely flat. Much like the San Joaquin valley except that it much greener here. Mostly large farmlands, lots of truck crops. We followed along the Rhine to Oppenheim, there took a short break to walk through the side streets. Here we left the river, following the highway, straight as an arrow southward to Worms. Here the Rhine comes back to meet it. With the help of a nice tailwind we helped the 50 kilometers to Worms in 2 1/2 hpurs [hours]- arriving at noon. We bought some supplies, found a small park for lunch, then stretched out on the grass in the sunshine for a lazy 45 min. doze- Ah. The lazy life of a traveling student.

Fully relaxed and refreshed, we set out to see a little of the city. Worms is the oldest in Germany dating from some time before the Roman occupation of the area about the time of Christ. It has been a royal city and a Bishop's seat, has a long and rich history. But of course, most of this cannot be seen in architecture etc. so its visual impact is something less than its historical significance. We saw a fine monument to Martin Luther and his fellow battlers in the Reformation. Remember, his trial took place in Worms. Sculptures of the main leaders with the pedestals containing the seals of several German cities, scenes from Luther's life and some of his most remembered sayings. Also nearby are ruins of the old Roman walls of the city and, very close to these, the city's cathedral. This last was unfortunately badly damaged in the many wars of the past 200 years but is now quite well restored. Especially from the outside it is very beautiful, in particular the sculptured figures at the sides and above on the main entrance- Gothic period and very striking. Reminded me of those on the Fraunkirch in Nuremberg.

Inside the cathedral is sort of a cluttered display of the salvaged sculpture of the original church dating from about 1000. Too crowded to appeal to my simpler tastes. The altar is especially ornate and bold, high baroque.

Having seen the most interesting part of Worms by about 4:15 and having heard that morning that the stretch from Heidelberg to Heilbronn, would be rough biking, we decided to go on further for the night. So we headed east across the flat valley toward Bensheim- actually to Eppenheim, where there is a youth hostel. These towns lie at the foot of a range of high hills (in Germany they are considered mountains) which run north and south from Darmstadt to Heidelberg. As we came across the valley toward Heppenheim, the mountain came into view and, on one of the very highest right above the town stood a tall tower, the ruins of an old fortress. Sure enough, further inquiry indicated that the youth hostel was in this tower on top of the hill so, after 70 kilometers biking, we finished off the day with a 45 minute clontain climb, pushing our bikes up the road to the hostel but it was surely well worth the effort for the view in every direction was breathtaking- out over the large valley to the Rhine, back into the small valleys in the hills, across to other nearby wooded crests, down to the roofs of Heppenheim.

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After a huge dinner from our pqcks [packs], we went out again after dark to walk through the fortress and look out at the lights of all the villages, a light breeze carrying sounds from miles away through the still night.

Yesterday morning we rode the 27 kilometers along the foot of the hills into Heidelberg. All along the way we passed countless blossoming fruit trees, with flowers of pink, green, yellow and the light green new leaves. It was a rainbow of color on a sunny day. It was fairly easy riding and we were in Heidelberg by 11 AM. After dropping our gear off at the hostel we went by the Railroad station to buy the week's Time magazine and then to the American express to get mail. Then we went to the university mensa (cafeteria) for another good inexpensive 30c hot lunch, and off to walk around the old part of town. By far the most interesting was the famous Heidelberg "schloss" (There is no good one-word translation though castle is often given. The combination palace-fortress is as close as I can some) It is mostly the huge baroque palace with statues and colums [columns] sculptured into walls. But the palace is built within the remains of the medieval fortress, With round turret towers, moat, and stone bridges etc. Around it are beautiful gardens with the trees just showing their brightest spring green.

From the castle terrace there is a full view out over Heidelberg and you can begin to appreciate how beautifully situated it is. It is right at the beginning of the valley of the Neckar and the city is built only in the bottom of the valley, the hills above remaining thick with lush green forest. It is rwally [really] a perfect, romantic setting for a city, with the river winding back into the hills out of sight.

Coming down from the castle, we located part of the old university, wandered around the old part of town and then had dinner at the mensa and returned to the hospital to wash clothes and write and read before bedtime.

This morning we awoke to gray overcast skies and, by 11 AM, we were having the first real rain of our trip which is pretty lucky for this early in the year. We spent the morning wandering again, watched a couple of ships going through the river locks where a spillway changes the height of the Neckar about 6 feet, then back to the old university to see the student prison.

This was really an interesting experience. It consists of about 6 or 7 small rooms in the main old university building, set off by barred door and windows, simply furnished with a wood table, 2 wood chairs, 2 beds. The prison was used from about 1720 to about 1914 to hold, for a few days each, students who were drunk, rowdy, fighting etc; the most interesting feature is the collection of verses, sayings, signatures, and self portraits which were painted on the walls, layer over layer, by the "residents" over the 200 years. They were often quite witty and their general tone suggested that being in the prison was more of a lark than a general disaster.

After lunch at the mensa again, we went back to the hostel to pack up, put on raincoats and begin the journey up the Neckar. We didn't know what sort of country to expect since the river is smaller and more winding than the Rhine. But it turned out that the road was flat and smooth, followed right along the river, and we made the 33 kilometers to Eberbach before 5 PM. And with raincoats the rain was no great bothet either, thank goodness. The