Volume 10: Elizabeth Macarthur journal and correspondence, 1789-1840

9 and order; all common plants. I have found great pleasure in my study: every Walk furnished me with subjects to put in practice, that Theory I had before gained by reading but Alas my botanical pursuits were most unwelcomely interrupted by Mr. McArthurs being attacked by a severe illness – In December he got better, and in January we were moved into a more convenient House – I shall now introduce another acquaintance Mr. Worgan, to you, a Gentleman I have not hitherto named, he was surgeon to the Syrius, and happened to be left at this place: when that Ship met with her fate at Norfolk. It is not improbable this Gentleman may himself deliver this Letter to you he is well known to Doctor Cudliff. I assure you in losing him a very considerable branch of our society will be lopped off – I shall now tell you of another resource I had to fill up some of my vacant hours, our New House is ornamented with a piano-forte of Mr Worgans, he kindly means to leave it with me, and now under his direction I have begun a new study, but I fear without my Master I shall not make any great proficiency, I am told however I have done wonders – in being able to play of God save the King and Foots minuet besides that at reading the notes with great facility, in spite of Musick I have not altogether lost sight of my Botanical studies: I have only been precluded from pursuing that Study, by the intense heat of the Weather, which which has not permitted me to walk much during the summer. the Months of December, and January, have been hotter than I can describe, indeed, insufferably so. The Thermometer rising from

10 an 100 to an 112 degrees is I believe 30 degrees above the hottest day known in England – the general heat is to be borne, but when we are oppressed by the hot winds we have no other resource – but to shut up ourselves in our Houses and to endeavour to the utmost of our power to exclude every breath of Air – This Wind blows from the North, and comes as if from an heated oven. Those Winds are generally succeeded by a Thunder Storm, so severe and [original crossed out] awful, that it is impossible for one who has not been a Witness to such a violent concussion of the Elements to form any notion of it. I am not yet enough used to it, to be quite unmoved, it is so different from the Thunder we have in England, I cannot help being a little cowardly, yet no injury has ever been suffered from it, except a few sheep being killed which were laying [lying] under a Tree, that was struck by the Lightning a Thunder storm has always the effect to bring heavy rain, which cools the air very considerably, I have seen very little rain, since my Arrival, indeed I do not think we have had a Weeks rain in the whole time: the consequence of which is, our Gardens produce nothing, all is burnt up, indeed the soil must be allowed to be most wretched and totally unfit for growing any European productions tho a stranger would scarcely believe this, as the face of the ground at this moment, where it is in its native state is flourishing even to Luxuriance; producing fine Shrubs, Trees and Flowers. which by their lively tints, afford a most agreeable Landscape. Beauty I have heard from some of my unlettered Country men is but skin deep, I am sure the remark holds good in N:S: Wales – where all the Beauty is litterally [literally] on the surface, but believe

11 I must allow it has symetry [symmetry] of form also to recommend it, as the ground in all the parts that have been discovered is charmingly turned and diversified by agreeable Vallies [Valleys], and gently rising Hills, but still those beauties are all exterior. Many Gentle -men have penetrated far into the Country, but they find little difference in the appearance of the Soil. Some Rivers have been discovered to one of which the Govr has given the name of the Hawkesbury, it is a very noble one, and empties itself into the Sea; at a Harbour which Captn Cook in his Voyage named Broken-Bay, another river the Tench and a third the Worgan, it is supposed by some, that these three are one, and the same River only have been lighted upon by Explorers: at different distances from its source – If the British Government think fit to continue the Colony, those Rivers may be of great Utility; particularly in dry Seasons – as all the fresh Water we have near Sydney is very inconsiderable tho we cannot say we have hitherto wanted Water.

I have not yet seen the famous settlement of Rose Hill I wanted much to have paid it a Visit before the ship sailed, but have now given up the Idea – the Weather is yet too warm and Rose Hill has not the benefit of sea-breezes so much as we have at Sydney. All the ground Works and Farming Schemes are carried on at Rose Hill; tho' the hind quarters are here. The last harvest was a very [word missing] one, the Wheat and Barley, not yielding thrice the quantity that was sown. The Indian Corn returned something more, but it was altogether a poverty struck harvest. It is very likely my next Letter to you may be dated from Rosehill Captn Nepean has an Idea that the Govr will remove the remainder of his detachment and Men, thither as soon as the

12 Barracks are completed which are already half finished, after the three Officers I have already named for Norfolk are gone there will only remain at Sydney Cove Captn Nepean, Mr. Townson Mr McArthur and the Surgeon Mr Harris, this would indeed be a very small society if it were in danger of losing the Marine Officers, but that cannot be the case till the remainder of the Corps arrive. We shall be well pleased to remove any where with Captn Nepean, he is truly a good hearted Man and has I believe a great friendship for Mr. McArthur. You will observe I have made no excursion, of any consequence perhaps you will wonder how I should make any in a Country like this. I will tell you how – the Harbour at Port Jackson is universally allowed to be the finest in the known World from the mouth of which to Rose Hill, they call 16 Miles in a Straight direction, then it is so beautifully formed that I can conceive Nothing equal to it, branching out into a number of Arms, and Coves, forming little Islands, and points of Land, so agreeable and romantic that the most fanciful imagination must tire, and I think allow himself to be outdone and yield the palm to reality and simple nature In a Harbour so formed and of such extent, a number of pleasant little water parties might be made to some of those Islands or Bays; and a number I yet promise myself, but hitherto from Mr McArthurs long confinement, and since his recovery from the heat of the Weather, I have been enabled to put but one in execution and that was to a Bay near the harbours mouth, about 6 miles from Sydney, we passed the day in Walking among the Rocks, and upon the sand very agreeably, I looked carefully for some Shells for you, but could find

13 none better than what you can get at Bude or Widemouth. above this Bay about half a miles distance is a very high Hill which commands an extensive view of the Wide Ocean, on it is placed a Flag-Staff, which can also be seen at Sydney. When a ship appears the Flag is hoisted; by which means we have notice of it, much sooner than we otherways could have, it also conducts the Vessel into the Harbour. There are a few Huts near the Flag-staff, with People in them appointed to keep a look-out, and from thence the spot has derived the general name of Look-out. Of my Walks round Sydney the longest has not extended beyond three Miles and that distance I have I believe only ventured upon twice: once to a Farm which Captn Nepean has for his Company, to which we sent over Tea equipage and drank tea on the [original crossed out] turf; and once to a Hill situated between this and Botany Bay, where I could command a prospect of that famous spot. Nor do I think there is any probability, of my seeing much of the Inland country, until it is cleared, as beyond a certain distance round the Colony, there is nothing but Native paths, very narrow and very uncommodious, the Natives are certainly not a very Gallant set of people, who take pleasure in escorting their Ladies, No – they suffer them humbly to follow, Indian file like. As I am now speaking of the Natives, I must give you an account how we stand with them, in order to give you an Idea of this part of our political Government, it will be necessary to carry the Account back to a period some months previous to my arrival. In the Winter 1789 (which you will recollect is summer in England) a dreadful Small-pox was discovered amongst the Natives, how the disorder was introduced cannot be discovered. They were found lying in a Miserable State some dead and others dying, nor is it to be wondered at that this disorder, should in general be so fatal to them, when we consider they are not in