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in that capacity upon our arrival at Jaffa. He was young and
anxious to be serviceable, but with little experience and having no
previous knowledge of the places to be visited. This exposed us to some
uneasiness as we were approaching the monastery, for we had been
warned against certain wandering Arabs who prowled around the
neighborhood, ready, if the opportunity offered, to relieve any belated
traveller of his specie. Our guide seemed to be completely bewildered as
to the proper path to take through the trackless waste in which the
monastery lies, and in the distance we saw some Arab tents which made
us feel a little anxious. At this moment however a man passed us who
put us in the right road, or rather, direction, and soon after we reached
our destination. The country around is hilly and almost completely
destitute of vegetation. It is supposed to be the desert in which our
Lord fasted.
We had engaged before leaving Jerusalem a couple of armed men
to accompany us from the monastery to the Dead Sea and river Jordan,
and they joined us soon after daylight. Their arms consisted of a gun
a piece, both flint locks and unusually long in the barrel. They
were wild looking fellows with full beards, and they went through
the form of guarding us by going in front as we would approach
any suspicious looking turn or winding of the path and reconnoitered
the surroundings before beckoning to us to follow. They were with us
during the greater part of the day and carried on a good deal of
conversation with our guide. They inquired particularly after Hayes’
revolver which was self cocking, and it was discharged several times
for their gratification. Their chief at Jerusalem was paid for their ser-
vices and we gave them a small “pour boire” upon parting with them.
Upon reaching the Dead Sea, which was much
farther than we had expected, we both undressed for a bath in order
to experience the unusual sensation of floating on the water without its
being possible to sink in it. This density is due to there being no escape
to the water of the river Jordan which empties into it except by evaporation,
and the liquid is always so charged with solid matter in solution
that all animal bodies float upon it.
Upon entering the water I floated on the surface for a few moments with-
out wetting my head, and shortly after coming out while dressing, I was
seized with a fainting fit which was checked by Hayes who threw some
water in my face. Hayes was quite alarmed when he saw me losing
consciousness and was very active in bringing me to. He did not
want to have a sick man on his hands away off at the Dead Sea.
The explanation was simply that the head did not participate with
the rest of the body in the reaction or tendency of the blood to come to the
surface which always follows a cold bath, and which causes the pleasant
sensation known as the glow. The consequence was that the blood was
leaving my head and brain to increase the circulation in the rest of the
body, and unconsciousness was the result.
From the Dead Sea we went to the Jordan at a point where there is
a well known crossing over a row of stones placed at convenient dis-
tances for stepping from one to the other. It is a common thing for
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