Robert Suggate journal and commonplace book, 1874-1878.

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with frequent calms amongst the Islands in the straits and with almost incessant lightning, on the 15th of August we crossed the Line again, but no scraping of chins this time, and we soon got clear of these islands and had a tolerable fair run across the [[China seas]], got a Chinese pilot who took us up to [[Hong Kong bay]], a pleasant anchorage some distance from [[Macao]].

In the evening a lot of us got leave to go on shore, and I first set my foot where I had long wished, on Chinese ground, the ruler of which I believe claims relationship with the sun, moon, stars and all the comets. [[Hong Kong]] was not then what it now is with the great [[Victoria Town]] built upon it, and its bay crowded with ships of all nations. We amused ourselves in various ways some were bathing some wandering about by the shore and looking for shells and some up the hills and into the Chinese huts without ceremony, where they were able to buy a strong fiery spirit that the Chinese make called [samshor?], of a disagreeable taste, but it served to muddle the brain and jack drank pretty freely at least some of them did. I walked along by the shore round a point of land and up a rugged path leading to a hut some distance from the shore. There were several Chinamen standing about but I saw no females or children. The men began talking very fast to me, but all I could understand was "tchin tchin". They felt my clothes all over examined the buttons very closely, and felt my hands shoes and hat, but all in good humour and laughing. They afterwards took me into the hut and offered me tea in very small cups, with incessant tchin, tchining and they also brought some large and curious fruit which I thought was the fruit of the bread fruit tree but I could not make them understand that I wanted the name of it. I drank some of their tea but distasteful for the want of sugar, which it appeared they do not use. We got on the most friendly terms with each other, although quite unable to understand a word of each other's incessant

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talking. However they gave me a hint that it was time to go by pointing to the sun which was getting low, and one of them laid his head on his hand and shut his eyes, and then pointed overhead from the sun, which I took for a hint to come again when the sun was higher. They appeared to me to be a party of friendly fishermen. They followed me down the path tchin tchining till I was out of sight so my first interview with the subjects of the "Brother of the Sun" was decidedly agreeable.

We lay in this bay a fortnight and then a Chinese pilot took us up the [[Canton river]], by the [[Cap-sing-moon passage]] very narrow in some places with high rocks on each side but the pilot cleverly kept us clear of them. The ships [[Earl of Balcarras]] and [[Sir David Scott]] both got fast on the bar for a time but we went nicely over. The forts at the entrance to the river were crowded with Chinese watching our movements, and most likely were planning in their minds the best means to stop us, or any other vessel whenever it might suit their purpose. We reached the anchorage ground at [[Whampoa]] (Sep. 5th) the same day and moored the vessel, and whilst doing so our first death took place on board, he was an old schoolmate and neighbor's son from near where we lived at [[Carlton]], he joined the ship as poulterer a fine young strong fellow, but he sank under a long and severe attack of dysentery. We burried him on a place called [[Dane's Island]] where many a poor fellow sleeps his last, far from his native land. Poor [[Bill Pitchers]], his fate brought sad thoughts with it, many a day in winter and summer we had trudged together full of fun and enjoyment and his sisters with us to the little town of [[Lowesloft]] to school, but they with his poor father and mother would see him no more.

An auction as is usual in such cases was immediately held with his clothing and each article is sold to the highest bidder amongst his shipmates, and the amount entered into the purser's book to be paid over to the relatives when the vessel arrives in [[England]].

We were supplied with fresh meat and

See [[Canton Register]] 1830 +/31

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vegetables as soon as we anchored at [[Hong Kong]] for all hands, a most welcome change after so much salt beef and salt pork, and most confoundedly hard the salt had made it, probably some of it had been in the salt for several voyages.

A Chinaman to supply the ship with what is wanted and called a compradore came alongside every morning with his boat, and from him we could purchase fresh bread a great treat after the hard biscuit , also eggs cheap, but we did not often indulge in such luxuries, the fresh beef and plenty of it was so delicious after four months of 'salt junk'. To us the meat from contrast was excellent, but the china beef is not equal to English beef, the pork was very good, of mutton I can say nothing for I saw none.

We now looked forward for several months of quiet no night work, no boatswain's pipe rousing us to reef topsails, but the mosquitoes tormented us dreadfully. Night and day did these little devils only the size of a gnat, and a close relative no doubt, torment us. The backs of the hands, and insteps, and legs, being so much exposed in hot weather, were their favorite feeding grounds, and some of the men were on the sick list from their bites.

The captain went to live up at [[Canton]] and all hands at work getting the outward cargo out, cleaning, painting, and doing what repairs were necessary to the ship, and getting her ready to receive her cargo of tea.

We now got our linen washed clothes repaired and bought new of the Chinese tailors who flocked on board with their newest books of fashions.

After about two months hard work setting things square on board the vessel, I got leave to see [[Canton]] and stay some little time. I went on board one of the junks laden with some of our outward bound cargo and went up the river with the tide. I had my hammock and bedding with some eatables and some good ship's rum, and made myself very comfortable with the Chinese boatmen. They were civil and liked the taste of my rum, and wished me to have supper with them from a large bowl of rice, with something of a red colour mixed up in it, but as I heard they consider dogs and rats also snakes great dainties I declined to partake with them, so spread my hammock

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and turned in for a sleep, and when I woke in the morning the junk was making small headway through a crowd of small boats, to the landing place opposite the factories, so close were the boats packed that I had some difficulty in reaching the shore, a river population entirely, where they live and begin and end their days. I soon found the Hong or house where our captain was and got leave to stay with his steward and slept in what they call the '[Godvan?]' or stone house.

I took care to make the most of my time whilst in [[Canton]] seeing about as much as I could, of course saw [[China Street]] amd [[Hogg Lane]] places well known to all sailors. I made a few purchases of curiosities to bring to [[England]] but like every where else, articles that are good are costly.

I went to [[Carpenter's Square]] and bought a very handsome brass bound [illegible?] case, some fans, and other things for chimney ornaments.

Foreigners are not allowed to enter the city proper, one day I extended my walks so far that I was opposite and close to one of the entrances as I supposed, and seeing no one to stop me I went in and had got some distance before anyone saw me, but I was soon surrounded by several Chinamen who gave me very plain hints that I must go back, and such a jabbering and noise they made round me without making me understand a word they said, so that I thought it best to get away as quickly as possible, but without finding out exactly why I had transgressed, and in a few minutes after I was surrounded with beggars who kept up an incessant cry of camsha, camsha I gave some 'cash' amongst them but that appeared to make them worse and more importunate at that. I was really glad to get away from them.

Whilst in [[Canton]] a dispute arose between the English and Chinese and the latter immediately resorted to their old mode of annoyance, that of stopping the trade, and all business at an end, they from the first carried things in a very lofty manner, nor did the authorities even, seem disposed to stop the mob from insulting the English as they walked about, even close to the factorygates, so to protect ourselves we had an armed

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boats crew from each English ship in the river, and also a couple of quarter deck guns from one of our vessels. Which were planted one on each side of the factory gates. The crews were put into watches and kept guard night and day. It certainly was not very pleasant as we were only comparatively a handful altogether, and the Chinese had plenty of soldiers not very far off.

The disputes I heard originated from one of the gentlemen of the factory bringing his wife from [[Macao]] where foreign ladies are permitted to reside, but not in [[Canton]], and he persisted in keeping her with him, although warned by the Chinese of the consequences, and matters began to took quite serious when the lady thought it best to leave [[Canton]] and return to [[Macao]], and with the help of some dollars as a present to the authorities, the trade went on again. The men and guns were withdrawn, and sent on board their respective vessels, once things looked as usual; but I could not help thinking the fault rested on our side, what right have we to break the laws and rules made by a country to which we are only visitors, for purchase of what they produce for sale? It is besides said that the Chinese have a firm belief in a prophecy that their empire will be overthrown by a foreign woman.

Shortly after this our Jolly Boat was up to [[Canton]] and I returned to the ship in her, and had a fine view of the river and bordering country on my way down, and a fine river it is, but the water is shallow in places, and not deep enough for large vessels. Many nice houses stood on its banks with gardens down to the water's edge, with abundance of orange trees laden with fruit, we passed several forts commanding the passage of the river, but what they were like inside of them I had no means of judging. We passed many large war junks, unmanagable looking things, of very little use against our guns I should imagine. There are innumerable small boats and very often one is seen with several females in it without any of the opposite sex. Several long slender very fast boats passed us with many rowers on each side, engaged in smuggling opium from ships lower down the