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1811 Dec We arrived here on the 26th
Coimbra is beautifully situated on the banks of the Mondego, and is built on the declivity of a hill, as is the case of many of the towns in Portugal  it would be very pleasant quarters were it not for the very wet weather which renders the streets so excessively filthy as to hardly be able to stir out  The Environs are beautiful & in some places very wild & romantic; It was a very happy thing that the French could not make their retreat through this town as it is one of the richest & best in Portugal 
There are several Convents here built after the same style, but the Convent of Santa Cruz, which I believe is looked upon as the richest in Portugal, is an excessively fine building and much superior to any I have seen  the gardens attached to it which are very extensive are beautiful beyond description, the walks are laid out with a great deal of taste in which are numerous very fine Temples, & fountains, curious crystallizations, a large Aviary; the orange groves which at present are laden with fruit, add much to their beauty  The galleries in the Convent are near 200 feet in length being with numberless paintings some of which are very good  The Refectory where the Friars dine is a very fine room at the head of which there are well executed figures as large as life representing our Saviour & his 12 Apostles at the last supper 