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We preferred the toboggan, as it combined speed and novelty. Each toboggan has two men each in charge of a rope attached to the front of the vehicle. Many of the streets traversed were narrow, the turns sharp, and not a few seemed impossible because of the traffic already [preempting?] the limited space. With amazing dexterity the sled was guided safely to the foot of the mountain. The experience was much like a Coney Island razzle dazzle, but was well
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worth while. We returned by the same launch which had taken us from our ship and spent the remainder of the time in port, leaning over the rail and watching the exciting scene below us. The water was alive with small row boats, each containing a rower and one or two boys or men. Some had chairs for sale, some embroidery or drawn work done by women but being peddled by men, but most of the boats were bidding for pennies which the men or boys would dive after. They were kept so busy that it would seem that every penny must have been cast overboard. There was not a single failure to bring up a penny. The shouts and eager pleading for a chance to dive made the scene a noisy one. At eleven we were off and the big rock and the blue harbor was the last view of land we were to have for two weeks
p. 18
from Madeira the weather grew warmer. The crew were barefooted, the officers and waiters were clad in white, as were nearly all the passengers. Most of the passengers joined tournaments made up of various games, but i found it too hot for exertion. We crossed the equator July 31, but for 24 hours before it had been growing cooler and the night during which we crossed it was the coolest of the journey up to that date. We have now passed out of summer and into winter. Tonight we saw the Southern Cross for the first time and all confessed disappointment. When we left England, the sun set at 7:30. Now it sets at 6 and there is no twilight. Darkness setting in immediately after the setting of the sun. It is a curious contrast to Sweden.
We bought deck chairs in Madeira, those provided by the ship proving uncomfortable. These are better and we shall try to take them on with us to Pt Said. We shall get our ten shillings worth.
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After our expedition to Madeira, we settled down to the full enjoyment of the long unbroken quiet of the long voyage ahead. I spent my entire time in reading. The waves were very peaceful and there was nothing to see. It was the most monotonous trip I ever took. The great majority of the passengers took part in the many game contests and the decks were so occupied by them that it was difficult to walk. I read Mrs. Billington GreigVs Militant Tactics and a few suffrage pamphlets before beginning on South African history. This was followed by TheilVs History of South Africa, Cama's From the Great Trek to the Union, The Ruins of Rodesia, Dudley Kidd's The Essential Kaffie and several chapters from books in the Library. I had kept up this vigorous reading as long as it was enjoyable or profitable when we arrived in Cape To wn [Cape Town]. We anchored about Three in morning and pulled into the docks about day break, so we lost the distant view of the far famed Table Mountain. We were glad to step ashore however and were not sorry to leave the good S. S. Saxon altho [although] we had appreciated all the many comforts she had given us. Some photographs were taken of gr ups [groups] on the ship by an enterprising photographe[r] who later presented them for sale. I append those of our group. I may be recognized b [by] my sylph like figure.
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A deputation of ladies met us as 8.30 and aided us with our many pieces of baggage. The There was a peculiar method in South Africa of managing the landing Agents took the [that?] task of clearing as it was called. They took the baggage through the Customs and delivered it at your hotel with a bill. There are dock fees and the agent makes it easier f for the passenger but the landing is rather costly. After assuring the Inspector that I had no firearms, sewing machine or new linen I was permitted to pass. Mrs. Boersma was held back on account of her camera but finally persuaded the officer that she was merely passing through. We were then loaded into a rickety cab with a colored driver which reminded me so forcibly of the vehicles once in use in Washington that I could well imagine myself there instead of being on the other side of the world. We arrived at the Mt. Nelson Hotel which has pretty gardens and a beautiful view of Table Mountain, but wh[at?] looks better in the picture than in reality. We found good beds, poorly furnished but clean rooms and an indifferent table. It is said to be the best hotel in South Africa and consequently we are not expecting much in the way of comfort.
