The Scientific Notebooks of German Orchidologist Friedrich Wilhelm Ludwig Kränzlin

466 THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE. [October 8, 1881.

Forestry.

GROWING OUR OWN TIMBER.—It is at all times desirable, but specially so at present, to grow sufficient wood upon every extensive estate for all its requirements. If the cost of importing beef from America is such as to render the undertaking almost profitless, how much greater must be the loss in importing wood. The carriage of wood upon land is such that it can only be conveyed a very short distance without consuming the profit, hence the desirability of finding for it a local market. Carriage by sea is undoubtedly much cheaper than by road or rail, and so long as the freightage is low prices will not materially advance on account of carriage. The tide may, however, and probably will soon turn, not only from low to high freightage, but on account of diminished supplies from abroad, where the forests are melting like summer snows.

It is therefore strongly recommended that all landed proprietors grow as much wood and timber upon their respective properties as is required for thorough maintenance of the estates, including fencing, waterworks, fuel, buildings, &c. The question may very properly be asked, why we pay foreign nations large sums of money for wood, a great part of which might be kept, or rather circulated, at home. From a report by the Board of Trade for the year ending December 31, 1873, I find the following statement, amongst others, of great significance and intereste to proprietors of woodlands, namely, £18,654,982, the money paid by this country to foreign countries for the article wood alone. That was probably an exceptional return; but even with ample allowance there is still a broad margin worthy of the attention of those interested in the growing and disposal of wood. We cannot grow all kinds of wood and timber in this country more than we can all kinds of grain, but there are some kinds which can be grown at home vastly superior in many respects to what are grown abroad, such, for example, as the Scots Pine, Larch, and some kinds of hard woods. If any one is at all sceptical in regard of this I would advise them to visit the Pine forests of Deeside, Strathspey, and some of the woody districts in Ross-shire and Inverness-shire, such as Novar, Balnagowan, Beaufort, and many others, where both natural and planted timber trees can be seen in all their splendour and magnificence. Or where the Larch is wished to be seen in perfection, a visit to the woods and forests of Blair, in Athole, on the Tay; on the banks of the Don, at Monymusk; at Ballingdalloch, on the Spey; and Novar, Balnagowan, &c., in Ross-shire. If at these favoured places the trees, as such, are pleasant to the eye and gladdening to the heart of any admirer of sylvan grandeur and magnificence, it is equally certain that in point of quality and utility they will be found unsurpassable, if not unequalled in the known world. The justly celebrated Scots Pine of the Dee and Spey side districts have proved their durability again and again by endurance as fence and gate-posts, in which positions— the most trying possible—they have been and are still known as standing from forty to fifty years. Of Larch, again, I have in my possession some samples in excellent condition after having stood as fence-posts over thirty-five years.

There are, no doubt, well-defined and limited conditions under which any species of tree grows to perfection, and the Larch and Scots Pine are no exceptions. The first condition is to plant the trees only upon such ground as is suitable to them. The second condition is to thin them, so that at any stage of growth the trees may grow with a freedom and vigour adapted to their nature, consititution, and habit; and the third condition is to cut them at the proper stage of ripeness, and at the proper season of the year. Beyond proper planting, which includes selection of the soil, situation, &c., the next most important thing to attend to is the thinning of the trees. It is much to be deplored that vast areas of plantations are rendered less than half as valuaable [valuable] as they would otherwise be for want of timely thinning. In a large plantation of Scots Pine (over 1500 acres, and fifty years old) I had once an excellent opportunity of observing the effects of thinning in all its forms, and may state the value of the trees thus:—Part not thinned at all, trees valued at 3d. each. Part thinned when something over twenty years old, worth 6d. each. Part thinned once and sparingly when young, say twelve to fifteen years old, worth 1s. each. And part thinned once at proper age, say twelve years planted at proper distances, 4s. each. Now if we look at the value of the acre at fifty years old, at the above rates, we find it stands thus:—

[4 columned table]

1500 small trees, drawn up like poles, at 3d. each	£18	15	0
1000 small and branchless trees, at 6d. each ..	25	0	0
800 fine clean pole-like trees, at 1s. each ..	40	0	0
300 fine clean and fair-sized trees, at 4s. each .	60	0	0

It is not to be inferred that all the plantation would have been worth £60 at fifty years old, even if properly thinned, but it may be concluded that it would have been worth £80 per acre at 100 years growth, or even more, including the whole area, which implies that some of it would have been probably over one-third more money value than above represented. The soil was thin and poor, but such as produces fine quality of wood when at maturity at, say, 100 to 120 years. C. Y. Michie, Cullen House, Cullen, Banffshire, Oct. 3.

FLORISTS FLOWERS

AURICULAS.—The plants require to be frequently looked over to remove decayed leaves—the fanciers would say every second day, we are glad if we can look over ours every ten days. Some of the varieties have a tendency to throw out too many offsets from the base of the plant, which very much weakens it. If the principal object is to obtain stock these must be allowed to grow large enough before they are taken off; but if the object be to have fine trusses next spring, remove all but two with the finger and thumb. We have usually removed the plants at this time from their summer quarters behind a north wall to a more open position in the garden; but they look all right where they are, and the more cool position may possibly prevent many of them from throwing up autumn bloom. Do not give much water; just sufficient to keep the plants from flagging.

CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES.

No time should be lost now in seeing that all the plants are potted for the winter. We have finished ours, and they already show that they are established. We merely place the plants in cold frames, and keep the lights rather close for a week, but not quite closed either night or day. The plants that have but few roots are better to have the aid of a gentle hotbed just to start them into growth.

CARNATIONS PERPETUAL FLOWERING.

These will now be useful, as the earliest plants will, with the aid of a warm greenhouse, be in flower. Some years ago I saw a grand lot of plants in flower during the months of October. They had been potted in 12 or 15 inch pots, and were two years old. I do not recommend this system; better results can be obtained by putting in the cuttings in January, carefully attending to the plants afterwards, and they flower well in 8 and 9 inch pots. Keep them near the glass, and free from insect pests. Greenfly is sure to get on them at this season, but it can easily be destroyed by fumigating.

DAHLIAS.

The flowers of these will be very useful for cutting now and up to the time of frost. The smaller flowered Pompons, and the single varieties with small flowers, are the most useful for indoor decoration. A pure white single variety with small flowers is yet a desideratum. The large-flowered sort with several reputed aliases is certainly very handsome, but the flowers would be more graceful if they were half the size they are. When frost does cut the plants down it is best to throw a spadeful of earth to the stems until it is convenient to dig them up.

HOLLYHOCKS.

Seedlings and spring propogated plants may yet be producing blooms. Mark the best seedlings to grow again another season. Attend to saving seeds as soon as they are sufficiently ripe, else they speedily rot if the weather is unfavourable. Attend to potting the plants propagated from eyes, & c., during the summer months. About the end of the month the choice named varieties should be taken up, and if there is convenience to store them in a cool-house during the winter they may be potted. They also do well if planted closely together in some light soil in a cold frame. The plants require plenty of air during the winter, but to be protected from wet.

GLADIOLI.

Except a few late spikes from small seedling corms, or from offsets of named varieties, the bloom is over for the season. It will be necessary to look over the plants every day where seeds are ripening, and as soon as the pods open at the top they must be picked off and laid out in a dry room until they are quite dry, when they may be put into paper bags, and be stored away in a dry place in the pods until it is time to sow them in the spring. The young seedling corms that have been produced from spring-sown seeds must now be carefully separated from the soil, and be stored in paper also; a little dry sandy soil should be mixed with them.

PINKS.

These should be planted out in the beds, which ought to have been previously prepared for them; see to it without any delay if it has not already been done. The beds ought to be levelled carefully, and the plants to be put out 9 inches apart. Preparations ought to have been made to pot up all the plants that are intended for forcing of the white and purple ground varieties. If any spare soil has been left over from potting the Carnations this answers admirably for them.

ROSES.

Those who intend to purchase any plants should see to it at once. The best plants are sold out early, and it is not possible to have a good bloom next season if second-rate plants are obtained late, and planted so late that they do not become established before severe frosts set in. If it is intended to form new beds or quarters for Roses, the ground should be prepared at once. The Rose, above all things, likes a rich deep soil; and I find that the plants will succeed perfectly, even in light soil and indifferent situations, if the ground is trenched 2 feet deep, and plenty of good manure mixed with it. When the Roses are planted it is very desirable to put a spadeful of good loam around the roots of each; a barrow-load will do nine or ten plants. Some good plants ought also to be selected for potting; and this should be done as soon as the Roses will bear lifting from the open ground. A word of caution may be dropped here— Do not allow them to remain out of the ground a moment longer than may be necessary. If they have to be dug up in the garden at home they will suffer but little from exposure to the roots. It is when they have to be sent a considerable distance that they receive injury. Of course they should be unpacked as soon as they come home, and if they cannot be potted at once let the roots be immediately covered with soil.

TULIPS.

Let the ground be trenched up as soon as it can be cleared of the autumn flowers. We have had a grand display of Asters on the bed where our Tulips bloomed; they are nearly over, and as soon as they can be cleared off the bed must be trenched about 2 feet deep, and again be well enriched with manure. Some good turfy loam ought to be prepared to place on the surface; and in this the roots should be planted about the first or second week in November. J. Douglas.

Garden Operations. HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

Any wall trees that require to have their roots lifted this autumn will be the better for being attended to at once. All established trees that do not form fruitful growths, and those that, although previously fruitful, are becoming gross in habit, should be operated upon; also all young trees that have been planted two or three years, and have grown freely and almost filled their allotted spaces, will be greatly assisted by careful lifting. If the situtation is cold and the subsoil of a heavy description it may be necessary to elevate the trees somewhat above the level of the general surface of the borders; and where this is the case, the trees to be acted upon must first be unnailed, and then have the branches slung in bundles loosely to the wall. Where it is not necessary to lift the boles of the trees, but where the roots only are to be brought nearer to the surface, a commencement may be made by marking out a semicircle from the stem, taking for the radius the half of that of the branches of a fan-trained tree, and, of course, for other forms of training in proportion. A trench must then be taken out to such a depth as to insure that all

December 2, 1882.] THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE. 715

or Tudor style, and without being pretentious, is large, and in admirable accord with the surroundings.

Just on the margin of the ornamental water, and evidently enjoying greatly the abundant moisture for its roots, is a grand cut-leaved Alder, the branches of which spread to a diameter of some 80 feet. Beech, white Poplar, and Elms, are vary fine indeed, whilst shrubs of many kinds, Rhododendrons especially, grow luxuriantly. The bedding display which decorates the lawn in front of the house is marked by gaiety and brightness, yellow Calceolarias, Lobelias, and bedding Pelargoniums thriving and blooming luxuriantly. Seen under the heavy and continuous rain which so sadly marred the pleasure of our visit two combinations stood out as singularly pleasing. One was a mixture of the old silver bedding Pelargonium Lady Plymouth, and a capital blue Viola, well named by Mr. Herrin, the gardener, Chalfont Beauty; the other was Marshal McMahon bronze Pelargonium set in a carpet of dwarf blue Ageratum. This latter gave one of the most pleasing effects we have seen for a long time. A few carpet beds were looking in the rain clean, fresh, and pleasing; their flatness and formality more than recompensed in the ever bright smiles they reflect under dismal weather aspects. It would not be right to pass from the pleasure-grounds without making allusion to the charming appearance presented by the large quadrangular courtyard, round which stand the servants' offices. Here—unwonted sight!—may be seen not only groups of plants in pots, effectively arranged, but also many large plants. Still farther, all available wall space is covered by climbers of some sort, even Vines being used to hide from view some unsightly roofing.

The kitchen gardens adjoin the pleasure-grounds, and are very conveniently placed in reference to the kitchen department. At the farther end, embowered in luxuriant shrubs, stands the gardener's cottage, approached from the park by an independent entrance; behind, however, it opens into a roomy plant-house, from which, on either side, run the fruit-houses. Coming from out this plant-house there is seen on either hand an old-fashioned flower-garden, and from the centre runs right through the kitchen garden a broad pathway bordered on either side by flowers in various forms, and backed by espalier fruit trees, not a few of which seem of considerable age. Some are yet fruitful, but others are well-nigh spent. Existing conditions allow gardening to be done under the reverse of high-pressure. It is of a useful, plodding, satisfying kind, keeping pace with the wants and needs of an establishment that is not exacting. None the less we see evidence of good cultivation all round, and of plenty.

In the vineries were hanging many capital bunches of Grapes; and as not a few readers will perchance regard the condition of a man's Grapes as the highest test of his gardening abilities (a point about which there may be two opinions) it may not be uninteresting to state that Mr. Herrin exhibited not a few of the capital bunches we saw hanging in the Chalfont vineries with excellent results at the Crystal Palace in September last. Amongst kinds not at all common was fruiting a rod of Abercairney Seedling, a fine well-coloured black Grape that seems to be intermediate between Black Hamburgh and Alicante. The berry is rather oval, and of rich brisk flavour that, allied to its evidently good fruiting qualities, should make it a popular variety. Of better known kinds Hamburgh, Alicante, Lady Downe's, and Mrs. Pince's Black Muscat, were all good, the bunches large and well-finished. Golden Queen, also fruiting, was not in such good condition as was Muscat of Alexandria, although these latter Vines had been only recently lifted and replanted with capital results.

Peach-houses newly planted were promising well, the trees making fine growth. Of Strawberries in pots the favoured sorts are Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, President, and Keens' Seedling. These are in first rate condition.

In plant-houses there is a good collection of useful furnishing stuff, and not a few good specimens; and upon a roof Passiflora racemosa is blooming finely. Mr. Herrin is a successful grower of large-flowered Chrysanthemums for exhibition, and some 250 plants in pots, tall, robust, and carrying, even so early, large plump buds, testify that the conditions of culture which lead to success are being largely complied with. D.

SARRACENIA ALBA.—A specimen of this charming novelty may now be seen in Messrs. Veitch's nursery, Chelsea, bearing three fine ptchers of remarkable size, beautifully variegated towards the top, and nearly 2 feet in length.

FORESTRY.

FOREST WORK FOR DECEMBER: PLANTING.— The mild open weather that we have experienced during November has been in every way favourable for planting operations, which in most districts should now be in an advanced state. Where the soil consists of stiff clay, or a peat-bog which retains a large quantity of water by capillary attraction, planting had better be deferred till spring, as we have found the antiseptic properties of peat to be very injurious to the roots when allowed to lie for any considerable time on the cold bog before commencing to grow. Drain, pit, and otherwise prepare ground intended for spring planting, also see that the fences are in a good state of repair, so that the inroads of cattle and sheep may be averted, nothing being more injurious to newly planted trees than having their leaders or branches nibbled off by sheep or hares. Where the latter are numerous, it is well to provide against their attacks by the timely use of wire-netting around the plantations, which will also be a guard against rabbits, the ravages of these during severe weather being quite as much to be dreaded as that of either sheep or hares. It is advisable when a home nursery is on the estate, only to lift at one time sufficient plants for a couple of days' work, as by this means the roots never become dry—a matter of much importance for the future welfare of the trees; but, of course, on this a great deal must depend upon the distance the nursery and plantations are apart, as well as on the number of men employed.

THINNING.—The thinning of all hardwood plantations (Oak excepted) should now go on, but however anxious the forester may be to prosecute this work, he will probably have to give way to game preservation. Hedgerow timber should now be grubbed or felled, and cut into convenient lengths, advantage being taken of the first dry frosty weather to have it removed, so that the fields may be as little cut up by cartage as possible. Dead or dying trees on the lawn, pleasureground, or park, may be removed during suitable weather. Prune off all dead branches or those that have become broken by the wind, and either have them carted away or burned. Plantation drives and rides should be gone carefuly over, and any protruding branches cut back so that the sportsman may have an uninterrupted view; also see that rabbits have not undermined the roads, leaving holes alike dangerous to horses or foot passengers. Scour out and deepen plantation drains, leaving them of such a width at the bottom that a spade can be conveniently used in cleaning. Cut new drains where such are needed to remove stagnant surface water, and see that the gratings of all closed drains do not become choked by an accumulation of leaves, which at this season give no little amount of trouble.

NURSERY.—During open weather the transplanting of strong seedlings may be proceeded with, more especially where vacant ground of a suitable quality is at hand. In some cases, however, this is better left over till spring, for, should hard frost succeed, the young plants are apt to get thrown out of the ground, but by a little attention this may to a great extent be averted. Turn compost heaps, and during suitable weather wheel on manures, road-scrapings, lime, &c.; also trench or ridge up vacant patches to receive the full benefit of frosts during winter. It is advisable to have a portion of the nursery under green crop every year, as it not only cleans the ground but leaves it in prime condition for being planted with seedling forest stuff. All seeds recently collected should be examined, especially those in the rot-heap. Collect tree seeds as they become ripe, and have them stored away in a dry and airy situation until required for use.

ROADS.—All roads and drives should now be put in thorough repair, when they will become settled and solid by traffic before spring. In repairing them avoid using boulders, as they are both disagreeable and unsatisfactory. The formation of new roads may also be carried out, in which thorough drainage, a sound bottom, and finely broken surface metalling are the main requisites. Collect leaves on lawns and drives, and have them conveyed at once to the rubbish heap.

HEDGES.—Where not already finished, the trimming of hedges should be prosecuted and speedily brought to a close. Now is a good time to form new hedges or to fill up gaps in old ones by planting young quicks. The ground alongside existing hedges should be cleaned at least once during the season, which will much enhance the value of such fences by promoting strong, healthy growth. The hoe and rake we find best for this purpose. A. D. Webster, Penrhyn Castle, North Wales.

The Herbaceous Border.

HARDY PLANTS AT GRASMERE, BYFLEET.—So much has been said about the pleasure to be derived from the cultivation of hardy herbaceous plants and shrubs that I resolved to pay Mr. Joseph Stevens a visit at this dull season of the year, knowing that his choice collection of over 10,000 distinct species and varieties would afford a fair opportunity of forming a correct opinion. I am bound to say that I was quite unprepared for the treat that was in store for me, as I was under the impression that I had delayed my visit a little too long, and that the recent heavy frost or two must have destroyed everything in the shape of bloom. Such was not the case, however, as a fair sprinkling of flowers remained, and the immense dried stems of Lilies on the edges of the shrubberies needed only to be clothed by the eye to form subjects to wonder at. I never saw anything like the growth of these Lilies. On a single stem of L. Dalmaticum 5 feet in height I counted fifty-two flower-scars, and many of the clumps of L. auratum bore a score of stems each from 6 to 8 feet in height. Other plants exhibit here equally amazing proportions, such as Delphiniums 8 feet in height, with stems as large as a broomstick, and Polygonum cuspidatum 10 feet in height and 12 feet across. Such plants as these, and many others seen in perfection at Grasmere, cause the hardy plantsmen to rave about them so, and well may they be excused.

Years of pleasant care have been given by Mr. Stevens to his hardy plant collection, and their present condition compensates him for his systematic method of labelling, arranging, and proving all the plants of which it is composed. Never is a plant planted without having a neat oval zinc label bearing its number corresponding to that in the book being placed to it. Had this important matter been neglected (as it too often is) a great part of the interest of the collection would have been lost, and quite one- half of the plants would be subjects of doubt and useless speculation, so far as their names go, at various times throughout the year. The plan of the garden is also well conceived; first, near the house, comes the large rockery, then a broad border runs around the lawn and pinetum, supplemented by occasional beds for distinct classes of plants; and another sunk rockery for dwarf plants is constructed at the further end of the garden; add to this the large trial ground, at present containing small specimens of all the rarest Coniferæ, &c., and we have a garden well arranged both for the plants and for those who wish to admire them. Beside the rockery is a bed containing all the varieties of Laurel, many of them being very distinct, the variety Cerasus lusitanica azorica having thick blackish-green leaves; C. camelliæfolia, curious curled foliage; and C. latifolia, resembling the Indiarubber plant in growth more than the common Laurel.

On the rockery we find Bambusa aurea 10 feet in height greener than in summer; B. Ragamowski, broad and solid-looking; B. Maximowiczii, and B. Fortunei, beautifully variegated; a few Hepaticas still in bloom. The evergreen British Ferns, such as the varities of Scolopendrium (one beautifully crimped mass of S. vulgare crispum 3 feet across), Polystichum, Polypodium, Lomaria spicant looking as clean and bright as ever, while Helleborus orientalis, H. abchasicus multiflorus, and many others, had already flowers open, and were somthered with well advanced buds, which will probably receive a check before long as a punishment for their precocity. Still bearing its pretty Marigold-like flowers is Tagetes Parryi, and near it Iberis Pruiti, 2 feet across, covered with pale lilac flowers, and Myosotis elegantissima, beautiful with its coloured leaves. Crowning one of the peaks is a fine purple form of Veronica Andersoni, while still displaying flowers are several varieties of Menziesia, Erica, Calamintha alpina, Alyssum argenteum, A. saxatile, Aster Reevesii and other Asters, Diplopappus Parryi, Veronica spicata, Potentilla colorata with the most brilliant carmine flowers, mule Pinks, and Rubus rosæfolius coronarius.

Noticeable in the rockery for their beautiful foliage are large tufts of Stobea purpurea var. alba, Thymus corsica, T. montana, T. stricta, dwarf Veronicas, patches of Draba, Saxifraga valdensis}Saxifraga Valdensis, Linaria genistifolia, and many other beauties, all looking very happy in their comfortable nooks. The broad border