Diary by a young American woman living in the Philippines, 1905

Monday, March 27. [[Amoy]]. [[Amoy]] is the most interesting place I have ever seen for it is like no other. There is only one [[Amoy]], even in China. It seems like a place out of the world and no minds can picture it. The streets are very narrow, much more so than in [[Canton]], and the life is far more crude, primitive and weird. The walls can often be reached on either side and the stones are very rough, uneven and often the way leads up long flights steps and through gates and twists and turns and winds on indefinitely so that it is possible to be lost in about two minutes. The

streets are so narrow and uneven that neither rickshaws nor chairs can be used. One must either walk through endless filth or ride one of the little Chinese ponies that has a mind of its own. They go up and down the steps like trained horses. Often if reined in one direction they decide to go in the other and it is best to give in at once to the devices of the pony. They make sudden turns around corners that almost scrape one from the saddle. The shops are smaller than in [[Canton]] and all the buildings seem smaller and much more closely thrown together. Many of the

buildings have the crescent decoration against evil spirits. [a drawing of crescent] [[Joss Houses]] are many and little shrines are inserted in every imaginable place. Often the street becomes a mere lane between walls. The people seem to live on the street and congregate in little squares places where several streets come together usually in front of a [[Joss House]]. The Doctor took me ashore in the forenoon. The harbor and shores are most iteresting, filled with boats of every description, mostly painted bright red + blue, most of them looking very, very old. The Sampans are smaller than in [[Hong Kong]], but more grotesque in shape. The people

do not live on them. The shores are very rugged, being huge piles of rock in some places with little temples perched among them and houses nestling under them. We landed on the outskirts of the city and had a view of the surrounding country, covered with white mounds which are graves. Instead of burying, the dead are placed on the ground and a mound of white cement put over. Papers burning prayers are put on little sticks and stuck in the ground. Amoy is a holy city and the dead are brought here from distances to be buried. We walked through the streets, and out by the race

course to the [[Monastery of the thousand rocks]], a most interesting Temple, much more beautiful than any in [[Canton]]. Had cup of tea. Saw prayer wheel. The women and children are more gaily dressed here always wearing brightly colored head dresses and often little bright paper decorations in the hair. After lunch went ashore with the Stewardess. Did not dare go far but would have liked to wander on for hours. Blind beggar. The European settlement is on an island opposite Amoy. Pulled up anchor at 4:30 P.M. Rough night on the China Sea. Cabins full of Chinamen.