The Scientific Notebooks of German Orchidologist Friedrich Wilhelm Ludwig Kränzlin

718 THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE. [DECEMBER 2, 1882.

Notices of Books.

Vines at Longleat: their History and Management. by William Taylor. Journal of Horticulture Office.

This is the title of a little book on the Vine, by Mr. William Taylor, who in a brief chapter at the commencement gives, as it were, a key to his work, and then proceeds to detail his practice in simple and concise language that all may understand. Mr. Taylor is so well known as one of the most successful cultivators of the day, and especially as a cultivator of the Grape Vine, that a record of his practice, in which he has not scrupled to chronicle failues as well as successes, renders the book more valuable and interesting than it otherwise would be to those who are in search of information upon the subject upon which it treats. Every chapter in the book has a direct bearing upon its successor, and, indeed, the little brochure in this respect is entitled to the highest praise, coming from the pen of a practical gardener. Upon the great structural capacity of the vinery at Longleat, which necessitates certain departures from ordinary practice, it is not our intention to dwell, believeing—indeed knowing—as we do, that such structures are rather the exception than the rule. We will, therefore, confine our remarks more especially to the "cultural points" set forth by Mr. Taylor, as it is these that are of greatest general importance. The chapters upon drainage, water supply, and partitioning the borders contain valuable information, and may be perused with advantage by Vine growers. Mr. Taylor's system of trellising may answer well in his own, or similar cases, but surely it is not necessary to train Vines at 4 feet from the glass. Giving full consideration to the evils resulting from trellises being too near the glass as referred to by Mr. Taylor we would rather recommend as a general rule that Vines be trained at a maximum distance of from 18 inches to 2 feet from the glass at 4 feet. "We do not," writes Mr. Taylor, "find that plants become drawn in such a place as the Crystal Palace, neither do my Strawberry plants become drawn during forcing, though they are from 4 to 8 feet from the glass." We consider there is no analogy whatever between the class of plants grown at the Crystal Palace and the forcing of the Vine or the Strawberry; and we should be surprised to find many first-rate cultivators endorsing this statement. Admitting air from above the foliage is good in principle. Mr. Taylor, arguing as to temperature, states with much force that there is often as much as 8° difference between the surface of the ground and a height of 4 feet above it, but in the case of a vinery the parallel hardly seems a strong one, as the volumes of heat ascend to the highest part of a house first; so that if there is a clear foot of space between the leaves of the Vine and the glass there seems no possibility of injury from extremes of temperature, and as a matter of fact there is none. The chapters upon border making, raising the plants, and planting supply the most exhaustive details of culture in a lucid style and afford sound practical instructions. We are bound to add, however, that but few Vine growers will think it is necessary to plant their Vines at 7 feet apart. In regard to early training Mr. Taylor rather deviates from the usual practice, but the principle he recommends is in the main sound. The next chapter on "the first pruning" is not so intelligible; there is a laboured attempt made to prove that Vines strike root so freely at either end that —to use Mr. Taylor's own words—rootless heads are as good as headless roots, meaning thereby that the top of a Vine cut off and rooted is as good as its lower portion after a certain time (three years). This theory hardly tallies with experience, because the portion of the Vine that is already furnished with fibrous roots should, in the natural order of things, have a long start of the rootless top. Mr. Taylor further says the Vine's principle storehouse is not in its roots, but in its stems and branches. Exactly; but what is the primary source of supply? Why, of course, the roota and the leaves, which collect the food for the stems and branches. The general instructions given with regard to pruning, the eradication of insects, and other routine treatment are of the most trustworthy character, and are detailed with much minuteness and exactitude. The author's experience is in favour of the extension system, and a great many others will coincide with him who have the means of carrying it out, but where variety is required from small houses it is not always convenient

nor desirable to fill a house with only one or two kinds of Grapes. Mr. Taylor gives useful information relative to exhausted Vine borders, and suggests a simple remedy—the addition of lime, to soils where that desirable element is known to be deficient, in preference to making new, and it must be admitted, in many cases exspensive borders. The chapter in which Mr. Taylor treats upon this part of his subject, as well as the subsequent one upon temperatures, may be read by amateurs, and indeed by all grades of gardeners, with interest as well as profit, as link after link of the whole chain of practical evidence is unravelled in a manner that can only be accomplished by a practitioner of long experience. It may, however, be taken as a broad rule that Grapes take nearer six weeks to stone in than three weeks, as stated by Mr. Taylor.

Upon the subect of air-giving Mr. Taylor is singularly exhaustive and clear, but we should prefer leaving air on all night in the case of an east house at midsummer rather than risk the chance of any assistant attending to it as early as 4.30 A.M. !

The remaining chapters of the book elucidating Mr. Taylor's curriculum of general practice, especially that referring to "sustained fertility" cannot but be of service to many who cannot obtain suitable soil for love or money, and who are often at a loss to know what to substitute for it. With the exception of a few points, which probably affect the author only under his own peculiar circumstances, we can fully recommend the book as a carefully written and trustworty guide, giving sound practical information upon every subject bearing upon the culture of the Grape Vine.

A History of British Birds. (Van Voorst.)

The fifteenth part of the fourth edition of Yarrell's celebrated book has just been issued by Mr. Van Voorst. With this number the second volume is completed, and the third commenced. A change of editorship is also announced, Mr. Howard Saunders taking up the work in place of Professor Newton. It is needless to reiterate commendations either on text, illustrations, or typography. Concerning the carrier or homing pigeon, we are told on the authority of Mr. Tegetmeier that thrity years ago only a few birds returned home the same day in the Belgian pigeon races of 300 miles, while now, by careful selection, it is unusual for any of the prizes in a 500 mile race not to be won on the vary same day that the birds are flown. Thus, in the great Belgian race of 1882, which took place from Monceaux, south of Bordeaux, to Brussels, a distance of 510 miles, 1674 birds were liberated at 4.12 A.M., the first bird reached home at 4.37 P.M., his speed having been about 1300 yards per minute. One hundred and fifty birds were back the same day. The faculty possessed by these birds is not merely instinctive, but due to training; hence the best bred birds will be lost if taken untrained 100 miles from home.

— Amateur Work Illustrated is the title of a monthly serial published by Messrs. Ward, Lock & Co., and ably edited by the author of Every Man his Own Mechanic. We are glad to observe from the volume before us, that our anticipation, formed after the appearance of the first few parts, that it would meet a distinct want, in providing a medium for enquiry, and for the diffusion of sound practical knowledge and advice, turns out to be correct. Among the legion of amateurs possessing a turn for mechanics, or work of some kind, very many often come to grief in their work for the want of a little sympathetic instruction and guidance. The amount of useful knowledge which this volume contains, on subjects ranging from from the manufacture of an organ to the mixing of a pail of whitewash, is something surprising; and it would be hard to find a more sensible Christmas present for a youngster in search of a hobby, or a volume more interesting and useful to amateur mechanics in general.

— Flora of Italy.—The Compendio della Flora Italiana, published under the editorship of Professor Gibelli, has now reached its 720th page and 88th plate. The genera are illustrated by small but clear engravings.

British Moss Flora.—Dr. Braithwaithe's excellent Moss Flora has now reached its 8th part, and its 20th plate. The care with which this work is prepared is as remarkable as ever; even pre-Linnean synonyms are given.

The Flower Garden.

BEDDING PLANTS.—The recent weather has been very trying to the store plants in pits and frames, particularly to the late cuttings, which have not yet become well-rooted, and they will require great attention in the constant removal of al incipient signs of mould and decay. In the case of the plants potted from the flower beds, all decaying foliage must be removed, and mouldy shoots shortened with a sharp knife. At the same time, as the prevalence of a damp and stagnant atmosphere is the principal cause, and at all times most inimical to the plants, it must be checked by free ventiliation at every favourable opportunity, particularly on fine mornings, when it may have become necessary to water any which may have become over-dry. It should be borne in mind that in such succulent things as the whole tribe of Scarlet Pelargoniums, dryness at the roots, when not carried to excess, is not so much to be dreaded as the moisture, and therefore in adddition to plenty of ventilation a little heat should be put on at the same time to assist in keeping all the surroundings dry. Unless in the case of frosty nights, when it cannot be avoided, heat should not be shut up with the plants and all apertures closed, as it will make them tender and promote a spindling and attenuated growth, when the great object is to keep them dwarf. Light, heat, and ventilation under proper control appear to be the only means by which these results can be secured. We may, however, observe that a certain amount of heat in the soil is an absolute necessity to the rooting processes, and therefore all late struck cuttings and late potted plants should be indulged with the warmest ends of the pits or whatever structures may be available for the purpose of wintering these and kindred plants.

MIXED HERBACEOUS BORDERS.—Everything here should now have become quite dormant, and the whole of the old flower-stems should be at once removed to the rubbish-heap. If it is not deemed advisable to lift the plants and deeply trench up the borders and renovate them with manure and new composts it will be found a very good thing to stir the surface and cover the whole with well decomposed manure. If a good dressing of soot can be spread over previously so much the better as it will help to keep in check the slugs which are greatly destructive to the young growths. The experience of last winter was a caution in this way; there was never frost enough to drive them from their usual haunts, and they were more numerous and destructive than I ever remember.

PROTECTION TO TENDER PLANTS.—The occurrence of severe frost a short time back reminds us of the necessity of applying a slight protection to various semi-tender plants the roots of which should be guarded from severe frost by covering them with a sufficient quantity of some light dry material such as cinder ashes, which can be heaped up in a conical form with a broad base, and is one of the most efficient protectives I know of. It is less liable to be disturbed by the birds than cocoa-fibre, or leafmould, while the shape of the cone is calculated to throw off heavy rains and tends to preserve a dryness and warmth to the roots which it takes a very low temperature indeed to reach. By this means fine plants of Dielytra spectabilis may be secured, also Salvia patens, if left in the open ground, may be so preserved; Acanthus grandiflorus, Gunnera scabra, Tritoma Uvaria, grandis, and intermedia; Lilium auratum, and all the varieties of speciosum and japonicum; all of which will be the better for a little extra covering. Althjough most of them will pass through such a winter as that of last year with impunity, yet, as such winters are the exception, it is always best to be on the safe side, and the more so as the covering may be easily removed as soon as the growth is likely to commence in the early spring.

TRELLISES, &C.—Advantage should be taken of mild weather to prune and regulate climbers on trellises and conservatory walls by tying out at once all that are perfectly hardy, but the tenderer sorts, such as the varieties of Ceanothus, will be better only partially fastened, so as to facilitate the application of mats or other protection in very severe weather, at