Vernon Smith's Diary Part 1

Wednesday 14th. [underlined] (Continued) & Mr. Basedow & myself set off on our adventure, with only a couple of boards to propel our frail craft. We soon found they were useless, but having a pole with us could control the raft, whenever the depth of water could permit of our touching bottom. After drifting about a mile, (during which one or two small alligators were seen, but got out of sight with much promptness,) we sighted a very large one, which I estimated to be a 14 footer & Mr. B. thought was 15 ft. With the greatest possible caution we stole on him inch by inch, & were barely in range when the tide turned on us, and carried us back in spite of our united efforts. Our feelings may be better imagined than described. No futher alligators were seen 'till we got back to the point where the big one we shot yesterday afternoon. We could see a small portion of his under side above the water (he was evidently lying either on his back or on his side) but the current, which by this time was a 6 or 7 knot one, prevented our reaching him, & we had all we could do to make over to the other side to secure our catching hold of the lugger. As it was, our grasp was barely firm enough to prevent the raft being carried away from beneath us, but Peter threw us a line & we soon had it made fast.

Thursday 22nd [underlined] (Continued) couple of shot guns & the dinghy, with 2 black boys & went up the w. arm about a mile. Very few birds. No fish, as far as we can tell, which perhaps accounts for the absence of birds. Shot a wader, which had a beautiful plumage, but not much flesh - being all legs. The breast & head are white & the wings jet black, legs red. Tried to get a snipe, but he was too wary for us. Saw 1 alligator, swimming. Returned to lugger @ 5.30 & got tea quickly, as it was getting dusk. Numbers of flying foxes flew up the Harbor while we were at our meal - some going close over the boat. Mr. Brown had 3 shots, but none fell. Had a game & then supper. Friday 23rd [underlined] A party, consisting of all but the two Malays, Tobaccha & myself, started in the dinghy @ 8a.m. to pull to the end of the E Arm, where Mr. Gee remained in charge of her; the others hoping to reach Mt. Goodwin. The day on board passed quickly & uneventfully & about 4 p.m. the boys sighted the dinghy coming miles off. It is wonderful what keen sight they have & how quickly they detect anything unusual on the horizon. We noticed this particularly in the Daly R. where they would sight alligators & other game on the banks & in the water, when we could hardly see them when pointed out. Unlike us, they

Wednesday 14th [underlined] (Continued) Turned in immediately after tea on a/c of the "mosquito attack". Had slept a bit, when heard an oil launch puffing. Awoke to find it was a reality, & about 10 p.m. the "Prickly Heat" with the Governor's Party (13 including all hands) on board. They thought we were a black's camp until Mr. Gee hailed them; when someone said "It's a boat". After we had assured them there was plenty of water, they came alongside & reported a rather wearying trip, with several groundings. We got a big billy of tea for them, while Mr. Herbert the G.R. opened the mail bag & sorted out the letters. We all had a good budget - I had 9 letters & 3 p.c's Made tea for ourselves & took it to the nets with letters Got finished soon after midnight. Some 2 months old. Thursday 15th [underlined] Soon after breakfast a black boy said the dinghy was coming, & soon afterwards Mr. Brown came aboard. We started down the River & made fair progress until we ran aground on a sandbank where we spent the night. A few alligators were seen One dead one we recognised as the one Bubs had by the tail Went shooting with Mr. Basedow in the dinghy, but tho' plenty - no luck. Friday 16th [underlined]. After waiting for the flood tide, started to set sail, when the Governor's launch was heard coming. They came alongside, looking very cold.

Friday 16th [underlined] (continued) They were having breakfast, but their oil-stove was out of order so couldn't boil any water. Fortunately I had just put on a big billy-full when first heard the launch, so they soon had hot coffee. Then His Excellency came aboard the lugger, had a look around and a chat, & then wished us goodbye & gave the order to start for Port Darwin. We set sail soon after, but had only gone a few hundred yards when we grounded on a bank, & had to spend the day there. Went ashore with Mr. Brown & new gun, which was handed to Bubs. They got 4 ducks, one of which Mr Basedow & I chased with dinghy. Flood tide at tea time. Grounded 50 yards after starting (although the channels had been shown at low water) & had to spend another night on that bank. The boat, fortunately, did not keel over like she did when the tide changed the night before, which caused us to slide about the deck a bit, beds & all. Saturday 17th [underlined]. Up before daylight & we got away before sunrise. This time successfully. Good progress was made, with fair wind & tide & anchored about dinner time near the mouth of the River. The boys were sent ashore for firewood. Later to cook damper

Saturday 17th. [underlined] (Continued) Got under weigh at 5p.m. the boys pulling at the 18ft oars. In about an hours time a light breeze sprang up & sails were set, & we soon cleared the mouth of the Daly River - glad to be at sea again. Sailed most of the night. Steering by compass. Sunday 18th [underlined] Continuing voyage under spanking breeze. About 8 a.m. discovered dinghy to be full of water, & paddles & floor-boards (3) gone. The lugger was put in the wind, the dinghy hauled alongside & baled out. Then retraced our course for some hours in hope of finding some trace of paddles & boards, but could see none. Went ashore near Cape Ford (Skipper & Peter & 3 boys) & cut a pair from some timber, trimming down the ends, & inserting boards in them for blades. Pedro & I washed down, & emptied the well, & then all hands tried fishing. Only 2 sharks, a rock cod (spotted yellow & black, with enormous mouth) & a whitefish, were caught. Spent the rest of the time reading, & turned in early. Monday 19th. [underlined] Got away at 1-0 am & made fairly good progress against a rough sea, which however, made things roll about a bit. Passed Cape Dombey at midday. Big fish (presume shark) got away with our King-fish line, which was trailing astern. Anchored