Travel Diaries and Journals

[left hand corner - Russell 24.3.59] [middle top margin - Anna Chrisholm D.2.12.1867 - A43 Abney Park Cem 17310] 136 [right hand corner - Emily & Henry Parker Kennington Cousins]

Eldest of 3 sons. Robert William & George 28.6.1889 (Emily Chisholm daughter) (Lousia Suggate Daughter) Robert Suggate of Sotherton. w. Halesworth. Suffolk [left hand margin - 21^st April 1775] Two sons: - William Suggate Born 1783 Died 8_th January 18 Age 88. Buried at Howerton. Grave N_o10. 5 Lewisham Road Greenwich - Henry Ezra Suggate Born 1780 Died 18_th August 1858 Age 78

Hannah wife of W_m Suggate Born 21_st April 1785 Died 4_th August 1869. Surgeon. R.N. H.M.S. "Asia." 85. Howerton N_o C

1784 William Suggate of Carlton Colvile .w. Lones [illegible?] Suffolk Hannah and Eight children: wife [Annie] 3 girls & 1 boy [right hand margin - Bob [?] Robert Charlotte Holstead [right hand margin - later Me [left hand margin Wife S Sugate] Sarah William 14 Emily Wickes [right hand margin - Liverpool. [Bos] [left hand margin - Married wife Sarah Chinery of] Alfred [Annie] Sarah Jana Parker ]Becdes] Henry E Margaret . Hannah Chisholm (had son Henry) 43 d. [illegible] Park 17 Colin Chrisholm. [left hand margin - wife dies January 69 Annie Faber] Robert Suggate. Born Carlton Colvile 1806 Married: _ Died Saturday 9_th 1878 ages 72 years Croydon 8 . 6 . 78 [Cemetary?] 959 Hannah Bullock Born 15_th 1809 Aged 77 77 Hoyaton Suffolk. Died 5_th April 1886 Croydon Cemetary 16933.

[left hand margin - R. S. 8 June 1878] One son: Reginald Suggare Born 27_th April May 1844 5. Died 12_th Dec _? 1927. 4 ages 82 83 [illegible] Ludhurn Norfolk 9_th January 1892 Married in 1892 to M_rs Rachel Caroline Milne . Born 1849 Died 9th May 1912 Aged 63 62 years. Tooting Cemetery 288. F. 2.

[left hand margin - R G S to 31 . 7. 1913 R.S. School 19/3/55] [Elely] Wickes see autographs Sarah Suggate wife of Alfred S. died age 20 . 3. 1887 [?] Ganneth Cemetary

11 . 3 1857 Violin 24. 1.59 Piano.

111 Sarah Ann Suggate daughter of Wm Suggate died 28_th June 1859 Thomas son

M_rs Margaret Bullock (Robert) Rob_t Holstead. Died 15_th August 1886 mother of M_rs Hannah Suggate aged 60 Findley Cemetery 4817

[left hand margin - Henry Parker son of Thm_s died 16_th August 1864 Age 85. 4 Abney Park Cemetary 33716 D. S. 37 N. 24. 33398

W_m Wickes Died 2_nd Sept 1875 aged 77 Coventry Cemetry

Emily Wickes [right hand margin Genevice Wicks Emily Wicks Willie Wilks

[left hand margin Sarah] Mrs Henry Suggate Died January 1869 B. Jany Hannah [illegible] nee Suggate Died 2.12.76. 43 buried Abney Park 17310 Thos Parker. Walworth d.1971

[left hand margin 1858 M_rs Canbram Jone M_rs. A S Sarah Charles Emily Sarah Ann Hannah

M_rs Henry Suggart Died January 1869

Emily Wickes (Genevieve W_m Emily Wickes Willie Wicks) B 1_st Jany Hannah [illegible] nee Suggate died 2.12.67 43 buried Abney Park 17310 Thos Parker. Walworth d 19.71 Emily Suggate [illegible] 1866 [?uly Chisholm [illegible Helen [illegible\

1858 Robt to Alrred [Smythe] 66 ct.

1882 2 1858 1880 Sept 27 Mrs Alfred [Symthe]

1942 to Robt [illegible] 56 Alfred S 86

1859 Robt S to Emily Parker

[numbers is left hand marging] 59 1868 59 9

[numbers inverted bottom of page] 22 = 6 = 3 23 = 1 = 6 15 = 3

1871 1783 88

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[Repeat scan of page 76 (marked 73 in upper left corner) - already transcribed]

"Nomine Gregori, meritis, studioque colendi;" "Regis Graecorum natus, Gregorius Abbas" - "Primus Poncetum coluit templumque locavit;" "Cuius in hac fossa ^ requiescant corporis ossa," "Spiritus ante deum laudes resonabit in aevum."

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"Posteritas renovavit anno 1611."

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"Restaurato a belli clade templo" "Et pio: Parochiae sede recens dato."

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The Commerce of the town of Aix la Chapelle [[Aachen]] is not so [florishing?] as during the time the French excluded English goods from the Continent; but there are several large & excellent shops, & every sort of goods upon sale. [[Dupaty]]'s letters on [[Italy]] 3.F. 1/2 & [[Craan]]'s battle of [[Waterloo]] 4.F. Today had been at once the most interesting & most fagging of the whole I have employed on the tour; For besides seeing the tour & [environs?] I have had to devote eight hours at least to my Journals which I have close, as my route now lays, thro' [through] [[Brussels]] for [[Paris]]. I shall visit, en passant, the field of [[Waterloo]] & St. Jean [[Mont-St-Jean]], & state merely the names of the towns I pass on my route, as I hope another year to have time to make a detour of some days at [[Brussells]], & at [illegible?] of [the?] interesting towns in [advance?] upon [[Paris]].

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Bile [Billet?] at Auberge - aix } 26th } - Reached Liege [[Liège]]: 5.p:m:} 1. [Mad:m each 2 eeno?] By Diligence at 7.a:m: to Liege [[Liège]] - a very extensive & opulent City on the [[Meuse]] - its commerce in coal & iron carried down this river to the [[Rhine]] - former- -ly under the government of it's own Prince & Arch B'p [Bishop] - united to [[France]] by Bnpte [[Bonaparte]] - & now forming a part of the Dominion of the [[Netherlands]] - the Pays Bas [[Netherlands]] - it is situated in a very deep vale & the hills rise a- -round it, & on the line of the River, to a considerable height - great appararent fertility of the surrounding country - at 6.p:m> by Diligence to [[Brussels]] 15.F. - a cou -ner south covered Cabriolet goes hence to [[Paris]] by [Gioet?] 3. [per?] Semain

those of [[Mr. Dubith]], the Hotel du dragon, & the hotel de la Cour de Hollande. I have [resided?] at the diligence Hotel de [Heuken?], where I have found the people extremely civil, and attentive. [[Cologne]] is about 14 l. [leauges?] from Liege [[Liège]], from [Maertnicht?] 6 L. & from [[Paris]] about 100 L. The town is situated between the [[Meuse]] & the [[Rhine]]. The town is very ancient, & [[Ptolemy]] men-tions it under the name of Veterna. It was known to the Romans in the times of Cesar [[Ceasar]] & [Drusus?] with the country between the [[Meuse]] & the [[Rhine]]. [[Charlemagne]] was born here in 742 & so he named this town the second of his great Empire & above the gate of his palace is still seen the following inscription - "Hic sedes regni trans Alpes habeatum caput omnium provin-" "-ciarum, et civitatum Galliae." The Emperor died here in 814. From that period downward for some time the town [underwent?] several changes of fortune. After the Carlovingian Emperors, those of the house of [[Saxe]], of Francony [[Francia]], of [[Suabria]], of Hapsbourg [[Habsburg]], & of [[Luxembourg]], had been for the most part crowned here [[Charles the IV]] made an express law, that thence forward all the Empe -rors of [[Germany]] should be crowned at Aix la Chapelle [[Aachen]]. The town is celebrated for the two treaties of peace, which it saw signed within its walls. The first on the 2d. of May 1668 between [[France]], and [[Spain]], & the second on the 18th of October 1748 between [[France]], [[England]] & the low countries. After dinner I walked to the town of [[Burscheid]] ([Porcetown, Borchette?]) to the [L.L.E?] of the town, by a pretty road, & not distant beyond a walk of 20 minutes. I was struck by seeing the stream issue from the rivulet, which ran thro' [through] the town, & the women washing their linen in it. On the hill to the left of the town are two Churches. It is said that this little valley remained a desert until the 10th. Century, the resort of wild boars. St. Gregory [[Gregor von Burtscheid]], son of Niciphoris [[Nikephoros?]], Emperor of [[Greece]], founded a convent of Monks, which in 1220 was converted into a cloister for women of rank. I went into the principal Church, & saw the founders "Beatus Gregonius Abbas" richly arrayed in his pontifical dress, of beautifully flowered silk, mitre & cross, contained in a glass gase. Over it was inscribed,

"S: Gregorio primo huius loci Abbati" "antiquitas posuit." and the following latin verses, "Continet hic tumulus peregrini membra sepulti"

Amongst others, the cincture of Xt [Christ]: with the impression of Con- -stantine's [[Constantine]] seal; _ the girdle of our Lady, the Virgin, _ a mor- -cel of Aaron's rod, & a little bit of the Manna from the deserts - the [winding?] sheet of our blessed Lord - & the sheet upon which the head of [[John the Baptist was decapitated]] -. All these va- -luables are kept carefully from the [polluting?] eyes of the vuglar, in a chest, adorned with a profusion of ornament. They are ex- -hibited every seven years. Their exposition, which continues for 15 days, drew once to Aix la Chapelle [[Aachen]], an innumerable crowd of pilgrims from all parts of [[Europe]]. In 1492. one day reckoned 142,000, votaries, & at the conclusion of the Farce, so dear to the poor pilgrims, the chief actors behind the scenes found in their priestly chests 80,000, florins in gold. The pulpit presented by H: IV of France [[Henry IV of France]] is truly superb. It is covered with rich plates of pure gold, with some exquisite figures, carved in ivory, some precious stones, & an enormous agate in the centre. It is kept covered, & used only on Sundays. During the Revolutionary war it was sent off for Safety into [[Westphalia]]. In the Church of the Franciscans, whose walls are adorned with paintings of the chief circumstances of his life & death, I found over the great Altar a painting of the incarnate Deity, the "Fiat Lux", wh: [which] brought [[Leonardo]]'s famous picture to my recollection. On the Right of the Church, as you enter, over a side altar, which forms one wing, as it were, of the great, is a superb painting of [[Rubens]], "the descent from the Cross," full of expression, & finely colored. The French robbed the Church of this picture too, & exhibited it amid their spoils in the [[Paris]] Museum. Blucher [[Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher]] demanded it back for his country- -men, & it now occupies it's original situation. Over the folding doors to protect the picture is inscribed, & to his honor,

"[Gubente?] Generalissimo Principe de Blucher" "Spolium Ecclesiae Aquisgrani [[Aachen]]" "redit" -

And above this painting is another, by [[Rubens]], in an oval frame of the Virgin Mourning over the dead Xt [Christ], given by the K. [King] of [[Prussia]],

"Frederico Wilhelmo [[Frederick William III]] Parochiani."

The ancient [foss?] of the town has been turned into a garden planted with trees. The amusements of the place contain saloons for for dan- -cing, & a theatre; but I am again unlucky, for the actors have gone away to [[Amsterdam]] at present. The three best Hotels are

flowers in to adorn the edifice, with the addition of some superb work in Mosaic. [Eguides?] [[Eudes of Metz?]] was commissioned to execute the plan. The form of the temple [soar?] antique, a rotund supported by pillars, in the circle of wh: [which] were comprised 32 columns with Cor'nthian [Corinthian] Capitals. Leo the 3.d [[Pope Leo III]] consecrated the edifice with much religious ceremony & a vast concourse of dignified Ecclesiastiques in 804. It was much inspired by the [Nossnaus?], but Otto, the 3.d [[Otto III]] reestab- blished & aggrandized it one hundred years later. One part was afterwards consumed by fire in 1236, & in 1366., & in 1358 the choir was added, a structure at once simple, & noble, with lancet win- -dows, & a very bold & high roof, arched. The Columns of the temple were carried off by the French, during the Revolutionary war, to [[Paris]], but have been restored in part since. The interior of the Cupola is adorned with paints & sculpture, of modern date, & not excellent. In the centre of the rotunda is the tomb of [[Charlemagne]], (who died here in 814) with the simple inscription, in brass letters,

"Carolo magno"

Above the tomb is an enormous crown of silver, & gilt copper, suspen- -ded by a chain affixed to the ceiling, the present of Frederic le grand [[Frederick II]], capable of holding 48 wax tapers. In our Saviour's chapel, where is his image on the cross, said to have been brought from [[Italy]] by the first Bishop of this town, we were shewn two columns of porphyry, & two of Granite, brought hither from [[Constantinople]] by [[Charlemagne]]. The wall over the altar is [covered?] with "ex voto", of silver legs, arms, eyes, & noses, & faces, which I looked upon with ra- -ther more complacency, than I did upon those at Einsielden [[Einsiedeln]], be- -because these expressed rather more a belief in the only intercecessor Xt [Christ]. But when I saw little bit bits of wax, [shoved?] into various parts of the human body, tied to the grating of the Chapel, & people praying with their arms extended, as if on the cross, my patience forsook me, & I turned away disgusted with the melancholy state of [formal?] delusion, in which these misled votaries are kept chained by their artful Priests. I went into the Sacristry with the hope of finding admission to the Relic, & other precious absurdities preserved for Ecclesiastical Juggle. Some excuse was made a- -bout the key being lost, but, altho' [although] I did not gain a sight of them, I found out a catalogue of them. Just the scull, & the arm bones of Charlemagne, inclosed in a precious chest. A golden cross, adorned with precious stones, & a bit of the true cross, wh: [which] "on dit" Charlemagne always wore - the "cor de chasse" of the Emperor, in Ebony, ornamented with plates of Gold.

with the addition of others. The Coffin is divided into 3. parts. The lower part, which is the most spacious, contains the bones of the 3. Kings, whose heads are separated from each other in the middle, on the lid of which in "n[?]" letters are written their names of Caspar, Melchior, & Balthasar. Their heads were once adorned with golden crowns, ennriched by Diamonds & rubies, wh. were lost, or broken, in 1794, when the Chapter fled with the greater part of the treasures in the Dome to [Asemberg?] in Westphalia. These magnificant crowns are replaced by gilt metal crowns, simply ornamented with pearls. The heads are turned with the faces downwards & the crowns are consequently placed upon the back parts of their heads. The Skulls have a dark color, & appearance of antiquity; but it is not an article in the Catholic creed to receive them as the real heads of the Maji. In the part above the lid are the bodies of St. Felix & St. Nabor & in the higher part of all the bones of St. Gregory. The heads of the three last were inclosed in busts of [?] which adorned the altar of the Church on fete days. The chest, in the form of the Jewish Arc, was adorned with figured work, in bas relief, representing arches sustained by little columns, with enamel & pearls & 226. gems of Greecian & Roman art. The Chapter returned to Cologne in 1804 with much of the sculptures of the tomb damaged, many of the gems & Cameos lost, or infused by [carnage?] & the enamels spoiled. All however that was possible has been done to restore this chest to its state of primitive grandeur. All the inhabitants of Cologne [vied?] in presenting gold gems, enamel, & precious stones for its reparation & the present condition of it is indeed astonishingly superb. The monuments of some archbishops of [St. George?] of Bavaria, & the remains of Mary of Medici are found before the Chapel. The only other Church we visited, out of the great number, remarkable for their beauty & size, was the Church of the ancient Convent of the "Dames" de Ste. Ursule. It is remarkable for its relation with the legend of Ste Ursule & the 11,000 virgins. Their history is represented by a painting in the choir. The whole Ch. is full of sanctified remains & bones. On the R. side at entering was a chamber, called the Goldene Kammer, or chamber

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14th - 15th - 16th - 17th - 18th - 47 - 47 - 47 - 47 - 47 Monday - Tuesday - Wednesday - Thursday - Friday

Re'd [Recieved?] for these five days - [illegible?] franc Alexandre

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25th 47 Dimanche Samedi - 1/2 [day?] - 2 F. [Francs] & bill for Shoes 1 F- 10 [?]. Alexandre

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21st July. Portier d'Hotel demande 2 [pour?] des bottes - 1 day - Monday - 1 [pr?] Tuesday 1 - [?]

Parkes [chemical?] Catherine 1 - 12th [botte]?

Mr Galet rue [du?] plat no.6 [d'?] Lyon

[Text in pencil not yet transcribed.]