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Diary of a trip on the Nile River, 1874-1875.

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  • UPenn Ms. Coll. 851
    • This red leather-bound volume, beginning in August 1874 and ending in February 1875, is the anonymous diary of a woman from New York City. Most entries in this vividly detailed journal begin with the date, followed by the time and the temperature and/or weather. The diarist and her companion, to whom she refers as "C." (who is probably Catharine Lorillard Wolfe, 1828-1887), leave from New York on 22 August 1874 on a Cunard steamer named Algeria. They arrive in Liverpool, England on 2 September and travel to London, where they tour the city and its outskirts. On 19 September they proceed to France, arriving in Paris on 22 September. Here they visit museums and tour the city, meeting friends and artists, including painter Albrecht Schenck (1828-1901). From Paris they journey to Italy, making several stops, even gambling in Monte Carlo. The writer relates details about France's landscape of eucalyptus and olive trees. They arrive in Italy, stopping in San Remo and Savona, where she records witnessing women working in the brickyards. A train takes the women through Italy, where the works of art and architecture they encounter in Florence, Rome, Pompeii, and Naples are documented. From Brindisi the pair takes a steamer to Egypt, arriving in Alexandria on 10 December. The writer describes the sounds of waterwheels, foggy mornings, the landscape (some of which is desolate and arid and some with barley and lentils), wildlife, bazaars, mud villages, irrigation, and local peoples and their dress. They arrive in Cairo on 12 December, where they visit the Cairo Museum, travel to the pyramids, see the sphinx, and are escorted by an officer to visit four mosques. On 20 December the women, Daibes (their dragoman--a guide and interpreter), and a crew of sixteen begin their voyage up the Nile River on a dahabeeyah (a shallow-bottomed boat with two or more sails) named "Southern Cross." A list of the crew and description of the boat including a layout drawing are recorded in the journal. The women often socialize with their friends the Browne's, who are traveling on a dahabeeyah called the "Lotus." Each stop along their voyage is documented; at Luxor, for example, they travel on land by donkey, reaching the temples of Thebes and seeing a Coptic monastery. The women encounter sandstorms and traverse the cataracts. Passing the Tropic of Cancer at the end of January 1875, they commence their return trip down the Nile to Cairo. The diary ends abruptly as the writer is describing Ramses III tomb on 27 February 1875. Six leaves are laid in the diary, including a list of people and distinguishing characteristics, a layout sketch of a boat, a plan to visit Syria, a landscape sketch in pencil, a clipping naming some people leaving New York on the Algeria, and a map of the Nile River Valley.

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    sermon. Church beautiful. A cold rainy day, did not go out again.

    Sept. 7. Monday. Went to St. Pauls, - entered by door at end which is much more impressive than side entrance. A chapel on the left hand is filled up much in Roman Catholic style. The work of decorating done + progresses very slowly. Brass mural labels have been erected to the memory of the officers + men who perished by the capsizing of the Captain off Cape Finisterre in 1870. The tonnage or construction of the vessel had been changed while building + the Captain had not been notified. This is properly set forth in the memorial. Took lunch + spent the rest of the day in Bethnall Green Museum- a wonderfully beautiful collection of pictures [+]. On leaving it went a little way into Victoria Park - returning [?] Lunatic Asylum, Holbern Valley Viaduct, New Metropolitan Market, with its handsome iron gate + street running under it. Some where a house with slab inserted to show Dryden lived there.

    Sept. 8 - Tuesday. Went to Dr. Reynolds - every thing very tasteful drawings, [fern?] cases, Scoth grey bound. He had nothing different - to - say except to [approve?] of our sojourn in Egypt. Mrs. O'Sullivan + Mrs. Landon out of town, left cards. Went to the Grill room for lunch, went into the International Gallery - pictures modern

    Last edit almost 4 years ago by csk
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    + quite interesting - the garden fine - heard organ in Albert Hall + crossed Hyde Park to see Albert Memorial - very fine + grand. In the evening had a very pleasant visit from Mr. Middleton who brought a beautiful collection of gold coins to show us. He took C's watch to be repaired.

    Sept. 9 - Wednesday. Went out to a pouring rain + bought some fruit for lunch. Mr. M. came for lunch at 12.30 + then we went out in brougham to Westminster Abbey. He got the keys of some places there not generally shown to the public. We went up a narrow winding, worn stone stairs behind the chapel of Edward the Confessor into an upper room where prayers were said for the soul of the soul of Henry 5th - his helmet, shield + saddle [of the armour] that [hes?] wore at Agincourt were on a beam above, they probably would not bear handling. He showed us some other places of this sort used for praying for some departed one in particular. He opened another little door a wooden stairs to the same sets of little rooms, where were effigies of distinguished persons dressed in the clothes they had worn in life - these very effigies were carried in the funeral procession. There were

    Last edit almost 4 years ago by Mick
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    Charles 2nd in beautiful lace + velvet, Queen Elizabeth frightfully ugly, Lord Nelson. The Duke of Buckingham (George Villiers) was represented as lying dead, all the others as standing + alive. A great quantity of mock jewelry decorated them all, but they wore their own clothes + superb real lace. In a closet were the mannikins with out any faces or dresses. Saw the [?] box [containing?] the bones of Major André. In a side chapel on one side is a recent bust of the late F.D. Maurice where it seems strangely out of place. Noticed the very beautiful iron work enclosing the tomb of Henry 7. Next into his beautiful chapel, superb roof, banners of the knights of the order of the Bath, no banners are added but a new brass plate is put in for each new knight. No one is allowed to go when the roof the ceiling is considered so insecure. We went into the Chapter House a very beautiful octagonal room with large lofty windows + high roof ^ with one beautiful marble column in the centre - the original fine tile floor. They have it partially covered with matting to preserve it for the chapel of Ed. the Confessor near the entrance Mr. M. drew a bolt in the floor + showed us a bit about 10 in by 5 of the original mosaic pavement. In the cloisters some composition had been put over the roof + carvings to preserve them as they were all crumbling away. He pointed out some of the new purchases

    Last edit almost 4 years ago by kleclair
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    at the National Gallery - fine old pictures + wonderful [?]. One by [blank] is so much retouched that they talk of having it cleaned to come down to the originalty. He brought us a guide book to London a hundred years ago to look at. Among the coins he brought was one of silver of Queen Elizabeth made so old + ugly that she ordered them all destroyed, about a third of her has been cut off, but the head is left entire. This is the only one know to exist. The British Museum offered him ₤60 for it which he declined but has left it to the museum in his will. After he left us I bought this book +c [&c, etc.]. Miss Cary made us a very agreeable visit in the evening. She told us that it has been quite the fashion this summer to make excursions in the [environs?] in certain six horse coaches, which are often driven by the owners gentlemen, sometimes [peers?] of the [?]. They start from the White Horse cellar, close by.

    Sept. 10 - Thursday. To Northumberland House, Trafalgar Square which is entirely dismantled, every thing moveable gone even to the mantels + the timbers, stone, [?] windows stair cases +c [&c, etc.] are being sold at Auction. The Ballroom, + Pompeian room must have been superb. The kitchen, offices, pantries, + the arrangements for

    Last edit over 3 years ago by donna29
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    the servants are on a very extensive scale. The building is palatial, & when the garden ran down to the Thames it must have been superb. Drove to the Victoria Station, luncheon & went by train 1/2 hr. to Dulwich, where a ten minute walk brought us to the [Dulwich] gallery -free - the Murillo's and Cuyp's are particularly fine. [The] Murillo's Madonna of the Rosary is here, his Flower Girl & Peasant Boys [Three Boys]. Rembrandt's Little Sewing Maid looking out of a window [Girl at a Window] is very attractive. Other fine pictures by other artists. Had to wait a while for the train. Sydenham is but a little farther.

    Sept. 11 - Friday. Mr. M. lunched with us again. We went in the brougham to the Foreign Office, a suberb new building built around four side of a large quadrangle, on this interior court statues & bust ornament the walls of the building. The staircase is magnificient entirely of marbles of the country - the top of the balustrade is dove colered marble - perhaps 10 in side, side walls painted on the plaster in excellent [latte,?] coloring fine. The room for the reception of ambassaders is elegant; but they have retained the old fireplace which is too insignificant for this fine room. The dining room adjoining is spacious & elegant - here they have retained the

    Last edit almost 4 years ago by csk
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