Diary of a trip on the Nile River, 1874-1875.

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  • UPenn Ms. Coll. 851
  • This red leather-bound volume, beginning in August 1874 and ending in February 1875, is the anonymous diary of a woman from New York City. Most entries in this vividly detailed journal begin with the date, followed by the time and the temperature and/or weather. The diarist and her companion, to whom she refers as "C." (who is probably Catharine Lorillard Wolfe, 1828-1887), leave from New York on 22 August 1874 on a Cunard steamer named Algeria. They arrive in Liverpool, England on 2 September and travel to London, where they tour the city and its outskirts. On 19 September they proceed to France, arriving in Paris on 22 September. Here they visit museums and tour the city, meeting friends and artists, including painter Albrecht Schenck (1828-1901). From Paris they journey to Italy, making several stops, even gambling in Monte Carlo. The writer relates details about France's landscape of eucalyptus and olive trees. They arrive in Italy, stopping in San Remo and Savona, where she records witnessing women working in the brickyards. A train takes the women through Italy, where the works of art and architecture they encounter in Florence, Rome, Pompeii, and Naples are documented. From Brindisi the pair takes a steamer to Egypt, arriving in Alexandria on 10 December. The writer describes the sounds of waterwheels, foggy mornings, the landscape (some of which is desolate and arid and some with barley and lentils), wildlife, bazaars, mud villages, irrigation, and local peoples and their dress. They arrive in Cairo on 12 December, where they visit the Cairo Museum, travel to the pyramids, see the sphinx, and are escorted by an officer to visit four mosques. On 20 December the women, Daibes (their dragoman--a guide and interpreter), and a crew of sixteen begin their voyage up the Nile River on a dahabeeyah (a shallow-bottomed boat with two or more sails) named "Southern Cross." A list of the crew and description of the boat including a layout drawing are recorded in the journal. The women often socialize with their friends the Browne's, who are traveling on a dahabeeyah called the "Lotus." Each stop along their voyage is documented; at Luxor, for example, they travel on land by donkey, reaching the temples of Thebes and seeing a Coptic monastery. The women encounter sandstorms and traverse the cataracts. Passing the Tropic of Cancer at the end of January 1875, they commence their return trip down the Nile to Cairo. The diary ends abruptly as the writer is describing Ramses III tomb on 27 February 1875. Six leaves are laid in the diary, including a list of people and distinguishing characteristics, a layout sketch of a boat, a plan to visit Syria, a landscape sketch in pencil, a clipping naming some people leaving New York on the Algeria, and a map of the Nile River Valley.

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    windows. In the street the women & children were busy mending and making them. Next into the fish market - all women there - many curious and bright colored fish for sale. 1.30 pm After lunch walked across the bridge to station. Luggage weighed again & [some?] allowance given us to Paris - had to go a long way down the station to the cars. Came on in the Dames Seules, suberb sunset, dentention again for the custom house. Reached Paris about 5 P.M. did not get to the Westminster until about 7.

    Sept. 23d Wednesday -A rainy day - went out a while to see if we could do better about rooms; but saw nothing nearly so nice, [took?] lunch in the coffee room & went to the custom house for our [trunks?] which had been registered through. Looked into our trunks [a &?] made and appointment at [Worths?].

    Sept. 24 - Thursday - Went to Drexel, [Hayet?] & Co for money & letters. & to some shops - lunched at [Guerres?] - went to Worth's but will have to go again tomorrow, met Miss Bennett there, & Mrs. Daly at Bon Marché - had met Mrs. Robbins in the morning. Drove around the Tuilleries & Louvre - the Tuilleries mostly destroyed especially that part towards the rue Rivoli. The corner of rue Castiglione where the minister of Finance was is fenced in as if they were about to rebuild it. The column Vendome is half up?

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    Sept. 25 - Friday - Given up to vanity. Hair dressed - at [?] made appointment for tomorrow. Engaged [K's?] dresses of Worth. Collars for self at [Wagen's?] & elsewhere. Met Mrs. Robbins, Met. J.S. Morgan & Mrs. Landon.

    Sept. 26 - Saturday. Engaged M.N. W's [barouche?] of [Viset?]. Attended to more of the commissions & bought two of Mariette's books for Egypt & a linen dress. Saw a large book of Mariette's on Denderah, very careful drawings of hieroglyphicks ac.

    Sept. 27 - Sunday - United Church, [form] a conglomeration of Pres. & Epis., a short turn in the Bois. Called on Mrs. L. Spencer. Afternoon Episcopal Church, rue de Bayard, heard Mr. Morgan. The Champs Elysee crowded with people siting & driving. Warm weather.

    Sept. 28 - Monday - Went to courier's office & to see Dr. Laerille - also to the Beaux Arts where we saw a painting by M. Baudry for the interior of the new Opera House. They show a great deal of boldness. He is about thirty-two - had the Prix de Rome. Our trunk came by Petite [Vitesser? - Vitesse] had apparently been examined at the Custom House. In the evening Heloise now Mme. Robin, a former [ceusiee?] maid called.

    Sept. 29 - Tuesday - Were engaged at home until afternoon when we made a number of visits; but only saw Mrs. Tucker, where we made a short visit other guests coming.

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    Sept. 30 - Wednesday More or less rain all day - worry - looked at Milliners for a traveling hat; but think the common milliners just as dear in proportion as Virot. Wrote to Mrs. Carpenter.

    Oct. 1 - Thursday - The usual unsatisfactory Paris day. Pleasant letter from home & from Alshon.

    Oct. 2 - Friday - I rec'd letters from Mr. Shenck the artist putting himself at our service some day. C. had letters from the Countesse de Chapanay [Chaponay] asking her to visit her at her château Radon [Pradon] near Nantua. C. answered her & did not go out until late. I wound up several commissions, & visited Mrs. Robbins in the morning. A very rainy afternoon.

    Oct. 3 - Saturday - Did not do much. Talked with a [cocurie?] maid. Heard from Mrs. Hurlbut - that maids are inconvient up the Nile. Pretty jet buckles are as hard to get here as the[y] would be in the U.S.

    Oct. 4 - Sunday - Did not go to church. Weather showery. Went to Mrs. Hurlbut who says no one takes a maid up the Nile. Went to see Mrs. Thomas, she & Ad. seemed sad: but the little boy was playing about [unconscious?] of his loss. Ad. sails for home this week with his child. Sad Mrs. Thomas goes to Nice for the winter.

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    Oct. 5 - Monday - After the usual morning detentions we went to inquire the character of Josephine Deleglize who was very highly recommended. We into the church opposite because we saw a carpet down through the church was handsome, & the people looked nice, the ceremony seemed tedious. The couple had a good time to rest sealed in their comfortable arm chairs. When the ceremony was nearly over a young lady who was seated directly behind the bride rose & taking a bag in her hand was handed down the aisle by a gentleman, she handing a sort of box or bag into which almost every one put a coin, the verger preceded her & announced that it was "pour les pauvres". Before she had entirely finished another lady rose & taking a boy by the hand handed another box the verger saying it was for the church. There followed more music prayers & c. We stopped for a moment intothe Madelaine where was another wedding. In the evening came Mrs. Robbins, later Mrs. Q. & about ten in came. Alston who ordered a café complet, he not having taken time to eat at his own hotel.

    Oct. 6[0] Tues. [Saturday] . Mr. Schenck called in having hastened his return from Auvergne in consequence of my note, & appointed Thursday for our visit to him.

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    Oct. 8 Thursday - In the noon train chemin de Fer des Nord went out a short distance to Villiers-le-Bel. Here Mr. Schenck met us & took us in his own conveyance to his studio at Ecouen A barn like building, rough plaster within & without, & pounded earth floor, that he may let his animals in without fear. He had a half dog large pictures done or nearly so - sheep in summer & in snow. One of goats, one of wolves, a small one with cattle. A dozen sketches taken this summer. Showed us a [sketch?] for a large historical piece which will never be finished. He does not hesitate to say that he is the first cattle painter of France. Took us to his house where his wife had head & [cheese?] cake wine [ac] put on the [Jardin?] table for us. Saw his sheep, dogs ponies &c. He & Madame accompanied us to the cars. The whole excursion was very interesting.

    Oct. 10 Saturday. Visited picture gallery of the Louvre. In the evening to the theatre française. Saw La Chaine by Scribe [Eugène Scribe]. Some of the acting was fine. [Meral? Moral] very bad. Went out in the foyer between each act in consequence of the great heat. The whole thing was quite curious to [noviced?].

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