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Diary of a trip on the Nile River, 1874-1875.

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  • UPenn Ms. Coll. 851
    • This red leather-bound volume, beginning in August 1874 and ending in February 1875, is the anonymous diary of a woman from New York City. Most entries in this vividly detailed journal begin with the date, followed by the time and the temperature and/or weather. The diarist and her companion, to whom she refers as "C." (who is probably Catharine Lorillard Wolfe, 1828-1887), leave from New York on 22 August 1874 on a Cunard steamer named Algeria. They arrive in Liverpool, England on 2 September and travel to London, where they tour the city and its outskirts. On 19 September they proceed to France, arriving in Paris on 22 September. Here they visit museums and tour the city, meeting friends and artists, including painter Albrecht Schenck (1828-1901). From Paris they journey to Italy, making several stops, even gambling in Monte Carlo. The writer relates details about France's landscape of eucalyptus and olive trees. They arrive in Italy, stopping in San Remo and Savona, where she records witnessing women working in the brickyards. A train takes the women through Italy, where the works of art and architecture they encounter in Florence, Rome, Pompeii, and Naples are documented. From Brindisi the pair takes a steamer to Egypt, arriving in Alexandria on 10 December. The writer describes the sounds of waterwheels, foggy mornings, the landscape (some of which is desolate and arid and some with barley and lentils), wildlife, bazaars, mud villages, irrigation, and local peoples and their dress. They arrive in Cairo on 12 December, where they visit the Cairo Museum, travel to the pyramids, see the sphinx, and are escorted by an officer to visit four mosques. On 20 December the women, Daibes (their dragoman--a guide and interpreter), and a crew of sixteen begin their voyage up the Nile River on a dahabeeyah (a shallow-bottomed boat with two or more sails) named "Southern Cross." A list of the crew and description of the boat including a layout drawing are recorded in the journal. The women often socialize with their friends the Browne's, who are traveling on a dahabeeyah called the "Lotus." Each stop along their voyage is documented; at Luxor, for example, they travel on land by donkey, reaching the temples of Thebes and seeing a Coptic monastery. The women encounter sandstorms and traverse the cataracts. Passing the Tropic of Cancer at the end of January 1875, they commence their return trip down the Nile to Cairo. The diary ends abruptly as the writer is describing Ramses III tomb on 27 February 1875. Six leaves are laid in the diary, including a list of people and distinguishing characteristics, a layout sketch of a boat, a plan to visit Syria, a landscape sketch in pencil, a clipping naming some people leaving New York on the Algeria, and a map of the Nile River Valley.

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    Oct 11 Sunday - After morning church tried to see Mrs. Spencer also La Princesse . In the evening Mr + Mrs. S. called the concierge having mistaken our message.

    Oct. 12 Monday - Busy packing. Josephine came we having agreed to pay her 250 frs. which shall include all but lodging. In Egypt she shall receive 100frs. a month which shall include her washing all her other expenses to be paid for her that is eating + lodging. Evening went to the Gaiété saw Orphée aux Enfers a spectable - a great deal of ballet + altogether not very nice. We had been recommended to go by Mrs. Spencer also by Mrs Kneeland. C. lost her fan + I took cold.

    Oct 13. Tuesday - Sent off trunk by [?] vitesse to Alexandria. Decided in the evening to remain another day.

    Oct. 14. Wednesday - Seston went with us to library, also to the Academie des Beaux Arts - saw de la Roche's Hemiscycle, Paix de Rome +c. At Louvre fine collection porcelain, Heure 2 ware. After lunch to the Luxemborg - saw fine statuary that had been at the Vienna exhibition, also the picture gallery. Have not written journal since Seston came; but have seen some interesting sights besides shopping

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    Oct.15 Thursday - Left hotel a ten A.M. Alston there to see us off. off the station found Baudet to say goodbyes. Reached Dijon around 6 P.M.

    Oct. 16 Friday - Drove about Dijon. Went to the Palace of Dukes of Burgundy. Two fine tombs in white [color] marble painted in colors That of Philippe le Hardi especially - around the sides are beautifully sculptured arcades filled with monks finely carved. A fine mantle piece & altar pieces. The Palais de Justice still retains a finely carved ceiling - & there a many other relics. P.M. to Lyons

    Oct. 17 Saturday - In the afternoon went to what is called [the] - La Croix Rousse - the silk weavers district - went into one house where we saw brocatelle & velvet being made. Bought a picture of the Russian Empress arcade on a Jacard [ jacquard] loom. The man showed us an old jacard loom which has 200 bobbins I believe they are called - they have now sometimes 3000. As we passed along could see a loom in almost every house. And when the carriage stopped the noise of them was quite remarkable. Let Josephine go to Marsailles to night.

    Oct. 18 Sunday. In the afternoon drove up to Notre Dame de Fourvieres - no view, but pleasant expedition, streets filled with pleasure seekers. The walls of the church are

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    covered with offerings of pictures ac. A new church is [commenced?] close by. After coming down the hill crossed both Rhone & Soane (Saône?) to get to the park which though not very large is very beautiful. Went into a fine new house filled with tropical plants. Returned home late passing among some fine residences.

    Oct. 19 Monday Left hotel before 7 A.M. It was Grand Hotel de Lyons opposite the Bourse. Lyons is a very fine city - has grown wonderfully since I last saw it. The whole R.R. route very interesting. More especially after passing Orange. We often saw Roman remains from the cars. The rocks sometimes had a volcanic appearance. Had a good view of the amphitheatre at Arles, & some other remains. Passed along the Crau which appeared as if cobble stones & peebles had been rained upon it. Many Mulberry trees to day & lately olive trees. Josephine met us at the station. [Aloes?] planted near it. Went to Grand Hotel de Marsailles (Marseille).

    Oct. 20 Tuesday - Strolled about the streets, bought some figs & found them good. Afternoon drove up to Notre Dame de la Garde, splendid view over whole city & curious jagged rocky hills on the right. Chateau d'If & other islands quite near.

    In every way a charming view. Then drove along the

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    fort, looked up its curious narrow streets with hall [Secches?] - then along the fine new Bassin de la Joliette - splendid docks & a great deal of shipping. Passed near cathedral which is being built. The church of Notre Dame de la Garde is new & rich - the walls covered with pictures of perils by sea & land - models of ships hang from the ceiling, flags & [banners?].

    Oct. 21 Wednesday - Walked about - bought a pomegranate for .75 - it had come from Spain. The native fruit here is cheaper & not so fine. Oysters sold along the streets at from one to two francs a doz [dozen]. Figs two sous a doz (dozen). Thrushes and [sparrows] larks in the market as game Saw juju for sale, looks like a leather colored olive, taste agreeable. Plenty of olives both green & blk [black]. Peaches for sale, & bananas; but not very plenty. Saw some other curious fruits. [Muscles? (mussels)] & small crabs about two & a half inches across, think they had soft shells. Also a curious thing found along the rocks, something like the prickle outside of a chestnet but blk. [black] & a very little yellow to eat inside. J. says they are oursins [urchins], very good to eat & in the proper season are four or five inches across. Left in train about noon, & being behind time did not reach

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    [Oct. 22 - Thursday] Cannes until nearly six P.M. Grand Hotel de Cannes. A lovely ride. Olives, oranges, [sun?berries], umbrella pines, picturesque & luxuriant views, wonderful rocks & the Mediterranean. Saw Roman remains at Frejus - which young Frenchman in car pointed out to C.

    Oct. 22. Thursday - [Slaes? Alaes?], & various kinds of [Jaluis?], also prickle pear, with fruit on it. (which I recognize as what I bought some years ago, look like little pine apples.) Orange & lemon trees, all in the hotel garden before our windows & beyond the sea, of which we hear the roll distinctly. Took a suberb drive & the "grand tour de la Californie, pas le [canal or caual?]" charming views, Esterel rocks jutting out grandly into the sea towards the [west?]. In front of St. Marguerite, from which Marshal Bazaine [François Achille Bazaine] recently escaped. Villa dotted all over the landscape. Vegetation charming quite different from any thing to which I am accustomed. The fragrant yellow Cassia in bloom, from which the[y] make scent. The blue green Eucalyptus [Calicus?] tree a pleasing variety & many other novelties. Returning stopped a[t] Villa San Jean, belonging to the Comtesse de Chaponay, very beautiful; did not go into the house, though the old servant who knew of Cath.

    Last edit almost 4 years ago by csk
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