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Diary of a trip on the Nile River, 1874-1875.

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  • UPenn Ms. Coll. 851
    • This red leather-bound volume, beginning in August 1874 and ending in February 1875, is the anonymous diary of a woman from New York City. Most entries in this vividly detailed journal begin with the date, followed by the time and the temperature and/or weather. The diarist and her companion, to whom she refers as "C." (who is probably Catharine Lorillard Wolfe, 1828-1887), leave from New York on 22 August 1874 on a Cunard steamer named Algeria. They arrive in Liverpool, England on 2 September and travel to London, where they tour the city and its outskirts. On 19 September they proceed to France, arriving in Paris on 22 September. Here they visit museums and tour the city, meeting friends and artists, including painter Albrecht Schenck (1828-1901). From Paris they journey to Italy, making several stops, even gambling in Monte Carlo. The writer relates details about France's landscape of eucalyptus and olive trees. They arrive in Italy, stopping in San Remo and Savona, where she records witnessing women working in the brickyards. A train takes the women through Italy, where the works of art and architecture they encounter in Florence, Rome, Pompeii, and Naples are documented. From Brindisi the pair takes a steamer to Egypt, arriving in Alexandria on 10 December. The writer describes the sounds of waterwheels, foggy mornings, the landscape (some of which is desolate and arid and some with barley and lentils), wildlife, bazaars, mud villages, irrigation, and local peoples and their dress. They arrive in Cairo on 12 December, where they visit the Cairo Museum, travel to the pyramids, see the sphinx, and are escorted by an officer to visit four mosques. On 20 December the women, Daibes (their dragoman--a guide and interpreter), and a crew of sixteen begin their voyage up the Nile River on a dahabeeyah (a shallow-bottomed boat with two or more sails) named "Southern Cross." A list of the crew and description of the boat including a layout drawing are recorded in the journal. The women often socialize with their friends the Browne's, who are traveling on a dahabeeyah called the "Lotus." Each stop along their voyage is documented; at Luxor, for example, they travel on land by donkey, reaching the temples of Thebes and seeing a Coptic monastery. The women encounter sandstorms and traverse the cataracts. Passing the Tropic of Cancer at the end of January 1875, they commence their return trip down the Nile to Cairo. The diary ends abruptly as the writer is describing Ramses III tomb on 27 February 1875. Six leaves are laid in the diary, including a list of people and distinguishing characteristics, a layout sketch of a boat, a plan to visit Syria, a landscape sketch in pencil, a clipping naming some people leaving New York on the Algeria, and a map of the Nile River Valley.

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    old mohogany furniture which is not much amiss. Passed into the India Office which was built before this & is not nearly so fine. Saw some carved slabs from India under a glass roof. At the British Museum saw dome of the coins, & intaglios some of the latter very fine & costly. In the same room is the Etruscan jewelry bought from Castellani for which together the Museum gave £ 20,000. Among there [bronzes?] is a life size head of Minerva very beautiful, the back of the head filled in with wood - a little figure about 8 in. [inches] high which has diamond eyes, - could not get near this as the room was being cleaned. Mr. M. by some magic took us into the room where are the manuscripts & wrote an order for two which were brought, also a rack to put them on they had belonged had belonged to the Dukes of Norfolk & were bequeathed by one of them to the museum the first was of the 13th century the last a volume of a Bible was of the 14th, very finely executed, & miniatures of about 3 1/2 in [inches] by 4 1/2 on almost every [page] leaf, the back grounds of these were of [a] very rich diaper patterns often showing the Dukes arms as it was finished for him, of course they were on vellum.

    Last edit almost 4 years ago by csk
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    There can be very few manuscripts as fine as this. In one of the cases outside is a part of the Magna Charta, which some one rescued from a sailor jast as he was going to cut it into patterns. Next into the reading room an immense circular room lighted from the top with every convenience - books of reference line the walls all around - the real library is shut off in numerous small room & every quarter hour a truck of books is wheeled in that has been ordered the previous quarter. Mr. M. told us that the sale of the Northumberland House brought only £ [pounds] 5000, the government gave £ [pounds] 100.000 for the house & I think £ [pounds] [156,000 erased?] more for the grounds. The government compelled the Duke to sell it as it is planned to run a fine street through there. After parting with Mr. M. we went to the Doré Gallery wher we found Mr. & Mrs. Geo. [George] Ronalds en route for home; but as Mr. R. is not well at present it is probably that the will remain this side. They told us of the death of [Mrs.] Ad. Thomas. Passed the evening very agreeably in the Cary's parler, Mrs. LeRoy was there.

    Sept. 12 - Saturday. Called at St. George's Albermarle St. to see if Mrs. L. [Speicer] might be there - walked up New Bond St. stopped into Phillip's China Shop. For [Soleu?] [cameos] about 10 in [inches] by 5 [inches]

    Last edit almost 4 years ago by csk
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    he asked from [blank space] to 35 Guineas. There is only one of each subject - no duplicates of his work, he is employed by Minton. In this respect his work is like pictures. A tea set bought by a M.S. [lady] was 55 Guineas - it consisted of 18 cups & saucer 2 cake plates & a slop bowl - Tiffany had some single cups of it [jalanede?] pattern, rich brown & gold, grass & birds on white ground lined with pink. The artistic grey stone ware is made in [Leader? - Doulton made in Lambeth or Burslem] & called Doulton Pottery. Looked for books about Egypt. Went to our bankers & to enquire for Alston, then to the Bethnall Green Museum, looked principally at the French School of paintings which is very fine - rich in Meissoniers, Vernets, Descamps, Greuze & Some very fine Reynolds, & Lawreence's. Dined at the Criterion - a very fine building elegant showcase - tiles on each side with fine effect. Had walked through the Metropolitan Meat Market.

    Sept. 12 - Sunday - Went to St. Andrews [Margaret crossed out], Wells St. ritual istic- choir away, service not very satisfactory, sermon poor. Crossed over to All Saints where we saw the end of the commu nion service. The 3 Officiating Priests were dressed in a sort of pale brown robes trimmed with red. He who carried the chalice seemed to wave it in the form of a cross

    Last edit almost 4 years ago by csk
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    presenting it to each person - when we just entered we saw a few men go to the altar and when they had communied file off on their side, when they had finished a few more women came - the cheri was fine - the service seemed impressive. The church very [basheful?] and rich in its decorations, beautiful marbles, some tile and bricks of vaarious colors are introduced with good effect. The restaurants being closed we lunched at home and walked to Westminster Abbey and though we arrived there 15 minutes before the hour specified every seat where one could hope to hear with comfort was filled. Made several ineffectual attempts and loitered around during most of the service - stood and heard a few words towards the end of the sermon. Saw Mr. Luis Rutherfurd thru After walking around the equestrian statue of Richard Coeur de Lion took a hanson and drove through Pimlieo, through Victoria sheet and other streets of new and comfortable houses, belonging very largely to the Marquis of Nestinia [?] over the scarcely finsished Chelsea suspension bridge ( had to pay 2 d. tool each way) to Battersea Park - a park for the people and they seemed to be enjoying it this fine afternoon. Some fine trees, and flower beds stiffly laid out, but tended with ease and very altogether very attractive pretty and tasteful, two or three houses of refreshment. Returning came through Chelsea street where are Barricks which must be a

    Last edit almost 4 years ago by NunezA
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    fifth of a mile in length and some way up through Sloane St. rePiccadilly. From Battersea Park had noticed the Hospital, and on Cedar of Lebanon which Murray says is in Physic Gardens thru Sept. 14 - Monday. Again to Westminster Abbey where we poked about for a long time looking more particularly at the interesting things that Mr. M. had shown us, at the Champleve enamel which were were not acquanited with before The chapter House is very interesting. Near the entrance is the wooden door leading to where the Pyx was keep [kept] Some one who had tried to rob it was flayed and his skin nailed upon the door. Mr. M. remembered seeing some bit of it then, and put his hand over the top said he could feel some of it still. Lunched at the Criterion and came home C. went to bed with a head ache. In the coming [?] L. Spencer and Charlie called also Mr. M., he brought C.'s watch and some photographs for us to look at. Sept. 15 - Tuesday - Commenced our preparations for leaving by buying a member of Murray's Guides [etc.?] At goodis 19 South Audley st saw fine [glasses?] for Duke of Edinbury 15 Guineas each, some things were cheaper than at Kensington Museum. The display read very beauti' -

    Last edit almost 4 years ago by kleclair
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