A Trip Around the World [draft], 1910-1911

#6

Had Ohara dine with me and went out on Gainza afterwards. Bought horse statuette, which Oh[begin crossed out]r[end crossed out]ara says is [crossed out]celebrated samurai warrior[begin crossed out]rr[end crossed out] Na[begin crossed out]u[end crossed out]ko.[text inserted above cross out]n...

Sept.[September] 18th Spent the morning writing, and at 1:00 Ohara called and took me to the Imperial Museum. En route we saw a Buddhist funeral with its pilgrims and its gorgeous displ[begin crossed out]y[end crossed out]ay of lotus plan[crossed out]ts in gilt, etc. At Imperial Museum saw the famous tramping boards and stones on which ..... ..........[text inserted above]recanting...Christians trod on Christian emblems; also, the public not[crossed out]ices outla[crossed out]wing Christianity, one of these being dated only 42 years ago! From there went to [crossed out]Asakusa Kwa[crossed out][text inserted above]nn...on temple, and [begin crossed out]t[end crossed out]returning to hotel bought three Hearn books in which Ohara inscribed my name in Japanese. [watermark in middle of page from bottom of line 13 to bottom of line 23] Sept.[September] 19th. Spent morning writing to friends at home, and at 12.30 Ohara called and conducted me to the Agricu[begin crossed out]t[end crossed out]ltural College where I had an appointment with the Director[begin crossed out]s[end crossed out], Dr. [begin crossed out]Nackirich;[end crossed out] Matsui. Went through farm and saw crops and Japanese at work [begin crossed out]i[end crossed out]on them and had inter[begin crossed out]st[end crossed out]esting interview with Dr. Matsui[begin crossed out]t[end crossed out], afte r which he conducted me through the Agricultural Museum. Returning, called on Dr. T. Watase, of the Tokyo Seed Plant Co., and later on Mr. Ihari [begin crossed out]f[end crossed out]of the Japan Times, who discussed the religious outlook here very interesting[begin crossed out]r[end crossed out]ly.

At night [begin crossed out]va[???}ity and crowd[end crossed out].............[text inserted above]went to... Methodist Publishing House, Ginza, whe[crossed out]re [text inserted][???]?... I wish[text inserted above]ed to attend a meeting. Sept.[September] 2[crossed out]0th. Wished to see Bishop E[begin crossed out]d[end crossed out][text inserted above i]f...ina whom Ohara had recommended to me, and after nearly losing my religion over my rikshaman's failures, stopped at a mission school to inquire and had a most interestin[begin crossed out]s[end crossed out]g conv[begin crossed out]s[end crossed out]ersation with Miss M. A.Clagett, 101 Hara Machi, Koish[begin crossed out]u[end crossed out][text inserted above]i...kawa, [text in margin](?)... a Baptist mission teacher, native of Louisville, Ky. Af[begin crossed out]r[end crossed out]terward found Bishop E[begin crossed out]d[end crossed out][text inserted above crossed out]f...ina and had most intere[crossed out]sting conver[crossed out]sation with him on religious outlook, and saw a typical Japanese home on the [begin crossed out]o[???}[end crossed out]inside . Tea and a queer sort o[crossed out]f cake served to us whi[begin crossed out]e[end crossed out]le we talked.

In afternoon called on Dept.[Department] of Education and got information I wished and after about an hour's trip to reach Bishop Hondo, head of the Japanese Methodi[begin crossed out]t[end crossed out]st Church in Japan, found that he is in America. Called at Japan T[crossed out]imes office again

#7

and had interesting coversation with Mr. [crossed out} the sub Editor.

Sept. 21st.

After writing a letter visited Japanese Department of Commerce and Agriculture but found no officer who could speak English satisfactorily. Next called at office of "Kokumin Shimbumsha" and inquired for Editor Tokomoti Soho, but he being absent in Korea, met Mr. S. Shihotsu, who showed me through the shop and arranged to call at my hotel at 5 p.m. to discuss the protective tariff. Next called on Japanese Advertiser and met Mr. B. W. Fleisher, who vigorously denounced Japanese morals. After tiffin had interesting conversation with Mr. Takahashi, Editor of the Japan Times. At 7:00 Ohara called and we went together to a genuine high-class Japanese restaurant where we had dinner in native style. My shoes left at the door, we sat on mats and ate the con-ton native food and I reckoned myself fortunate un eompleting the meal with chop-sticks without once resorting to the knife and fork which the young Japanese woman brought me as a life-preserver. She pronounced me "very skilful" which I compliment I thought, however, a rather extreme illustration of Japanese courtesy. I by no means begrudge the six yen the experience cost, but so far as sheer enjoyment of food is concerned I should rather have 5 cents worth of cheese and crackers or a penny stick of striped candy. Soup, raw fish, two kinds of cooked fish with Oriental sauce and no bread, a kind of nut (so I was told) that tasted like a sweet potato and was best of all, Japanese green tea (they use no sugar or cream in it), and their national drink, sake, which was also too Japanesey in taste for my palate. The nicest thing about the meal was the pretty Japanese girl who waited on us, with whom I talked with Ohara as interpreter. We had no singers or dancers as Ohara said cultured gentlemen do not; that only the lower classes do, as a rule, but there was music near-by in th eless honorable room to which we first went--"music" for all the world like "tuning up" in America and nothing else--literally and absolutely. I now understand the Li Hung Chang story!

#8 Sept. 22nd. In morning read with much interest Percival Lowell's "Soul of the Far East" and other Japanese books after which I did some writing, immediately after tiffin going to see Dr. Juiche^(i) Soyeda, President of the Industrial Bank of Japan, and one of the Empire's leading statesmen and financiers, Vice-minister in Okuma's cabinet^(,) etc.^(,) etc. Found him very interesting. Then went with Ohara through Imperial Pa^(la)ce Grounds, etc., seeing statues of Japanese notables, trophies of the Russian War, etc.

Ohara is a descendant of the samurai, and is to give me a letter of introduction to a friend in Kysoto University who may act as a guide for me there and is ^(he says,) the son of a [begin crossed out] daingo. [end crossed out] ^(daimyo.) Sept. 23rd. Arranged this morning to lunch tomorrow with Viscount Kaneko and to call Sunday on Count Okuma. Also went to Yokohoma Specie Bank to get another $50 note cashed--money simpl[?]^(y) evaporates here. After tiffin called on Mr. Sonda, President of the Fu^(i)fteenth Bank, and spent rest of afternoon and eve^(n)ing writing an article for my paper. Sept. 24th. Spent morning writing and reading and at 1:45 went to call on Viscount Kentaro Kaneko, Privy Councilor of^(the Emperor of) Japan and ex-minister of Agriculture and commerce. A graduate and an [??]^(LL).D. of Harvard and five times a visitor to America. I found him not only cultured, thoughtful and well informed, but a fluent speaker of English, too. Was impressed by the obsequiousness of the man-servant who^(humbly) squatted [?] on the floor every time in addressing the Viscount. Sept. 25th. To-day I had the distinguished privilege of over two hours with Count Okuma, former Prime Minister of Japan, and one of the Gen[begin crossed out]er[end crossed out]^(ro) (Elder s^(S)statemen) and founders of Japan. He has a beautiful home and perhaps the most magnificent garden I have ever seen. I found him vigorous for a man of his years, and so much interested in the question we discussed that I do not know know when we should have quit had not a servant entered at 12:30 ( I came at 10:00) to remind him of a funeral he was due to attend. We talked through an interpreter, Prof. Shioz[begin crossed out]o[end crossed out]^(a)wa, of Waseda University--the

#9

[begin crossed out] the [end crossed out] great institution founded by Count Okuma; but the Count seemed to understand a good deal of English, as he several times broke into the Professor's interpretation with some humorous supplementary remark, a winning and good-natured old man's laugh adding z [begin crossed out] u [end crossed out] est to his conversation. He kept me so late that I missed another engagement - with Mr. S. Ch [begin crossed out] a [end crossed out] iba, but I saw him later. Then Ohara came at 3:30 and we spent several hours at Maruzin's bookstore, after which we had dinner, walked through the park, and I wrote some letters. Capt. Buchanan and I expected to leave to-morrow morning, but his doctor does not think his carbuncle sufficiently well yet, and I am getting into the swim here so well, from the standpoint of an investigator, that I am glad to stay another day or so. Sept. 26th. This morning writing. This afternoon had an engagement with Baron Yeichi Shibusawa, one of the most eminet bankers and financiers in the Empire. He is 70 years old and Count Okuma 72, but both seem remarkably hale and vigorous for their years. Also called later on Mr. Thari of the Japanese Times. Sept. 27th. An interesting day, doing in the morning to the Stock Exchange when the incorgruity of men in haori and hikamas, their getas left at the door, bidding for stocks in all the wild fury of a New York pit, was memorable. From there I went to see Mr. Oka of the Department of Commerce and Argiculture, by arrangement with Viscount Kaneko, and from there to see Mr. Shihotsw, of the Japanese paper (the printers were singing again), who gave me more introductions. At the hotel I found Mr. Chiba waitng for tiffin, and after arranging to visit the cotton factory to-morrow, he took me to the home of a lady whom he pronounced the best singer in Japan-and she was the tip top-her rendering [text on right hand side] /? [end text on right hand side] of.............'s "Jerusalam" being especially fne. She also sang in one or two other languages. Was somewhat humilated when removing my shoes to find three or four loud and irrepressible holes in the toe, but was consoled later when Mr. Chiba said that President Taft had the same humiliation when he visited a tea house here. Later called on Editor Penlington of the Japan Times, who doesn't think much of the Japs,-- except of their shrewdness and cunning.

#10. Sept.28th Started day by visiting Bristish Embassy for information, after which I had an interesting interview with Dr. Nitoben, Professor of Economics in the IMperial University. At 1:40 Mez an I went to the famous Kanagafuchi cotton factory where Director Fuji showed us distinguished consideration, giving most of the afternoon to information, explanation and exhibition ofhis great enterprise employing 3,500 operativves and with a welfare system--greatest surprise of all--based on the famous Krupp model in Germany. Glad to see Buchanan back after two days in Miyanshita and will join him at Kyoto. Disappointed in not having Ohara dine with me my last night here, as he had to attend a Buddhist memorial service in honor of his "master" as he said. Am leaving Tokyo to-morrow--at last! Sept. 29th Ohara came at 7:40 and after breakfast went with me to Shimbashi Station where I caught the 9:05 train for Yokohoma. Sorry to part from Ohara as he is a fine fellow. At Yokohoma called at American Consulate, talking with Vice-Consul Bobbitt, and at British with Mr. Boulter, At 1:52 left for Kodzu where I went by electric car a few miles further, and then at 6 1/2 mile mountain climb, along ravines, waterfalls, and passes in the dark (a rikshaman carrying my luggage) till I reached Fuji-ya Hotel, Miyanoshita--a most delightful hotel, with open fires and a royal dinner to reward me for my labors. Sept. 30th. Rained all day and I spent the time writing. Oct.1st. Still raining. I gave up hope of going to Hakone, and caught an early train from Kodzu for Kyoto. Had a magnificent view of snow-capped Fuji, the clouds lifting in its direction, for probably an hour. It is indeed a magnificent sight. My fellow passengers were a high-caste Japanese with a rich rug in which he sat, read, and slept; a Yokohoma lady (Mrs. Mcarthur) and a Mrs. Smith of Vladivostok who gave me a word of introduction to Consul Green of Harbin if I go there. At 7:35 reached