A Trip Around the World [draft], 1910-1911

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which I called again to see Judge Elliott to whom I am indebted for a delightful automobile ride. At supper finally got into touch with Prof. C.M. Conner who came up and talked most interestingly about Philippine agriculture, etc.

Dec. 10th

Conner took me on an automobile ride and showed me the agricultural department work in and around Manila. Much interested in the various tropical plants. Boarded boat for Hong Kong.

Dec. 11. 12.

A long nightmare. Let us forget it.

Dec. 13th

Arrived in Hong Kong and find by the Hotel scales that I have lost seven pounds as a result fo the starvation and torture on the China Sea. Got some mail from Cook's and pulled myself together enough to write my Phillippine article and write a letter or two. Bruns is about as badly used up as I am.

Dec. 14th

The Hong Kong Hotel waiters have cut their queues since I left for Manila and when I come to China again, I suppose I shall find no queues at all.

Dec. 14th-18th.

On N.G.L.S.S. "Kleist" from Hong Kong to Singapore. The best fare I have ever eaten. I am taking six meals a day--three regular meals, and toast 7 a.m., sandwiches and tea at 11:00, tea and cakes at 4:00. My room-mate is Judge Charles Evans of Cincinnati. Read "Philippine Life in Town and Country"; also "Mr. Isaacs" by F. Marion Crawford, "The Arabian Nights" and part of Harben's "Abner Daniel". Wrote article No. 2 on the Philippines.

Dec. 18th.

Landed at Singapore at 10 a.m., closing a most delightful voyage. Captain's dinner and ball last night. Judge Evans and I are making the Adelphi our headquarters in Singaport. Went to Botanical Gardens this afternoon, and at 5:30 to service at St. Andrews Cathedral.

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Dec. 19th

Spent morning in inquiries about steamship, visit to Raffles Museum and buying books. At Raffles Museum saw many interesting speciments of wild life around here. There is the skeleton of a whale 42 feet long that got stranded on a coast near here. An enormous pen was built around him so he could not get back at high tide, and it took him a week to die; for three days he moaned terribly. A crocodile 15 feet long shot at Singapore, and an elephant and a tiger shot by the Sultan of Johore, were also in the collection. In the afternoon did some writing. Singapore is the most cosmopolitan place I have ever seen. Every known color is here, and it is said that 60 languages are in use in the city. Went to-night to a Javanese play. I couldn't understand a word, but the music was very good.

Dec. 20th

Started early for Johora where we visited the Palace of the Sultan, the Mohammedan temple, and a gambling house. One Chinaman lost all his money and then his watch at fantan. Introduced myself to a pretty girl who is from North Carolina and is going to Rangoon on my ship. I was greatly interested in the tropical vegetation between Singapore and Johorecocoanut groves, rubber plantations, mango trees, bananas, and several pinepapple planttions. Much clearing of the dense tropical jungle-growth is in progress; presumably ny way of preparation for rubber plantations.

Dec. 21st

Spent the day writing my Progressive Farmer article and at night went to hear Madam Calve, of which an account appears herewith. I especially enjoyed, next to Calve's signing, Pintel's rendering of Mendelssohn's "Spring Song."

Dec. 22nd

Registered my article and looked after some other matters in the morning, and in the afternoon went with Judge Evans to board the "Bharata" for Penang and Rangoon. I am

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forced into a second-class cabin, but it is large and airy and the boat is better than I expected.

Dec. 23rd

On board the Bharata. The fare is good, and the Mahonedan servants with their turbans, robes, rope girdles, and bare-feet look as if they had just stepped out of the Arabian Nights. I am reading "Pepys's Diary" for th efirst time and am greatly interested in it. By the way of spice I also read some of Mark Twain's short stories; and to little Adelaide Ames read some "Uncle Remus" stories.

Dec. 24th

After breakfast went out with Judge Evans to see Penang. Went to the Botanical Gardens past cocoanut groves and tropical homes. At Gardens saw many interesting trees, and shrubs, etc.--the deadly upas, cinnamon, cloves, rubber, orchids, etc. Delightful tiffin at E.&O. Hotel, after which, Christmas Eve as it is, the Judge and I sat with great delight in the cool shade of the coaconut palms on a green lawn looking out on a summer sea. After another tour of the town with its varigated population, we returned to our boat and I summoned Samuel Pepys to entertain me, in the main, although mingling therewith some conversation with fellow-passengers.

Dec. 25th

What a Christmas this is! I am wearing the thinnest and sheerest underclothing to be found and the thinnest outer suit I have ever owned--a pongee silk. Delighted to find a Christmas look about our breakfast table, thanks to the older and younger Mrs. Safton, both charming women: a Christmas tree and a present for each one, a Jack-in-the-Box for the Captain who thought he was opening chocolates when he got it, a red ball for the Judge, a rattle for me, etc. Spent the day in conversation with the men, women and children aboard in thinking of the folks at home and of past Christmases, and in reading Rousseau's "Confessions".

Dec. 26th

Unusual life aboard steamer. Interested in hearing fellow-passengers talk of big profits in cocoanut and rubber plantations. Judege Evans says the Chinese in the Philippines pay

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one peso (50 cents) a tree per year for the cocoanuts--and an enormous number can be planted on an acre. Many Europeans have cocoanut plantations and live handsomely from the income, having no trouble except to have the trees counted occasionally. The Chief Engineer talked interestingly of a trip to the Fijis. The natives, he says, are dying out. The change of diet (they can't eat one another any longer) doesn't seem to agree with them. --A jolly game of shuffleboard late this afternoon.

Dec. 27th

Arrived in Rangoon about 1 o'clock. Interviewed Thomas Cook, went about town somewhat and int he later afternoon went with Judge Evans to see the marvelous Shwe Dagon Pagoda. It amazed us. For gorgeousness of coloring it hardly has an equal on the earth, the colored glass mosaic work for which it is distinguished glistening in the sunlight like the gems of another Aladdin's palace.

Dec. 28th

Got up early and went with Mr. E. Hildebrand and Miss Shobinger to see the elephants work. It was better than a circus, and we enjoyed it immensely. Got caught on the ship when it was taken out in the river and had to wait two hours longer than I expected for the launch. The Judge and I took on a long street car ride getting out of town and after nightfall I bade him good-bye as he caught a sampan to go back in his ship. After dinner went with Mr. Peters to see the Seftone at the Strand Hotel. Met a young fellow there form Ispahan of which he talked most interestingly.

Dec. 29th

Got up early again to find the "Southern Cross" which I was delighted to see near the Southern horizon too plain to be mistaken, although the stars of course are somewhat out of line. It is about the size of the Great Bear. Had two or three hours before breakfast seeing the natives and Hindoos and for a farewell call on the Shwe Dagon, where a bright little Burmese boy acted as my guide. Fed the baby elephant of the temple, which he says will turn white later, and which came from Mandalay. After buying some ties, a belt, etc., and Penfield's "East of Suze" and planning my return home by the aid of Thomas

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Cook, I boarded the ship at 11:00 o'clock. Three hundred Hindoo passengers then came on board, presenting a unique sight.

Dec. 30th

Wrote article on Singapore, Penang, and Rangoon. My room-mate is Mr. Eugene Hildebrand a Chicago lawyer born in Switzerland. A delightful sea and our boat is a beauty-- like a private yacht, though it is too light for a sea. Was interested in seeing the Mohammedans in the second class turn their faces toward Mecca and prostrate themselves. repeatedly in prayer. One steerage passenger has his bear dyed a brilliant red in honor of the Prophet.

Dec. 31st

The sea is like a millpond and the temperature delightful. Mr. Peters, a rubber planter has been telling me interesting stories of his jungle experiences. Had a good game of "Hearts" last night, the first time I have played cards for weeks. Hildebrand is a fine, good-natured fellow and I have been playing more pranks on him and with him than the law allows. "You will live long," he laughed this afternoon. "Why do you say so?" I asked. "Because," he said, "if you are such a kid at thirty, you ought never to get old."

Jan. 1st.

HIldebrand and I got up just before midnight and saw the old year out and the new in. Finding no other prank to play, we found a man's cot on deck and elevated in perpendicularly against the rail. Landed in Calcutta at 1 p.m. All hotels full, went to Mrs. Monk's Boarding House with Hildebrand and his niece. In afternoon went to Zoological Gardens, where the chief feature was the most savage tiger I have ever seen, recently caught in the juble, after having killed several people. Later visited the famous "Black Hole."

Jan. 2nd

Started immediately after breakfast to Cook's to get mail. En route saw procession, dazzling in its forgeous coloring, escorting the Viceroy to his Palace. The red coats with