A Trip Around the World [draft], 1910-1911

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Kyoto and [crossed out word] half hour's riksha ride brought me to my hotel, the Mikayo.

Oct. 2nd.

Kyoto, engirt with mountains, is beautifully situated--much like Salt Lake City, Fine view this morning: it is pleasant to see the light of the sun again. Leaving hotel at 10:30 went to Buddhist Temple service, hear Imperial Palace strikingly like Catholic. Gorgeously arrayed priest sat on eminience with staff and half-drawled, half-chanted something, tapers burning below and other priests in vestment. Well dressed crowds sitting. Later retired to hall in rear to drink sake, I understood. [crossed out phrase] Then attended services at Union Church (Congregational) Doshisha. Very impressive in this foreign land. Delighted to meet Dr. Sidney L. Gulick and arranged to take tea with him this evening. A very charming man with an equally charming family. About 7:30 left with him for Japanese church, services in native tongue. I did not remain long, of course. The congregation seemed very intelligent and earnest.

Oct. 3rd

Rose early and went to the 7:30 chapel service at the Congregational School (Doshisha) Hundreds of fine-looking Japanese boys singing "How firm a foundation," with prayer and scripture reading in Japanese. Dr. Gulick showed me the first verse of Genesis: "In the origin of things heavan and earth make God honorably did." From Doshisha I went to the temple (Shinto) Ketano Tenjin. Saw the bull which people rub to ease their own pains. AFter this went to the Kinkaku-ji Buddhist temple where the most wonderful sight is a pine tree cut and trained ike a ship. The whole garden is very beautiful and the lake is full of carp that came ravenously open-mouthed to the surface when the delightfully sturdy and serious-minded Japanese boy-attendant clapped his hands. Next visit the Imperial Palace, which I found not very impressive, though a screen picture of wild geese and another of plum blossoms were very fine. The room in which the present Mikado took the oath to give a constitution and "seek out learning in all the world" is not shown. In the afternoon visit Art Museum with many well-carved wooden statues. After this saw the earth mound in which are the noses and ears of Koreans killed in one of the early wars. The temple of the 33,333 Kwunon was owrthh seeing, and while in th enew Honguwanji temple I saw an

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interesting Budhist service. Tried to get some shoes at a shoe store but No. 6 was their largest! Went to Dr. Gulick's for tea.

Oct. 4th.

After breakfast and some letters struck out with Mr. and Mrs. Slack, Lt. and Mrs. Morrison and little four-year-old Virginia and Capt. Buchanan to see the two Hongwanji temples, all in rikshas. At the first temple little Virginia and I took in the sights together and the rest of the morning was mostly a frolic with her. She is a delightful little curly-haired four-year-old, and I enjoyed this touch of child-life more than the temple's beauties. Saw the cables of human hair used in building the new Hongwanji, and was disappointed in the old one, as its art is by no means impressive. Next we went to a gaisha school where fifty or a hundred girls from 10 to 16 are in training. Music was of the same unspeakable order, but the light-eyes little creatures in their long and hadsome dresses looked so quaint that I felt as if I had run up on a bevy of Brer Rabbit's little girls. Little Virginia was a show to them and she nearly broke up the school; whether it was she or they who enjoyed the incident most I do not know. The sight of a little American child was also pleasing to the crowds we passed through and her calling to them evoked such responses as to make our progress a sort of ovation. After swearing eternal fealty to each other I bade the little damsel good-bye after tiffin, going to interview Prof. K Tajina, of Tokyo University. At 4:48 caught the train for Osaka. Somewhat disquieted by reports of cholera there, while at Kobe the situation is serious indeed.

Oct. 5th.

The cholera situation is worse here, than I thought -- victims dying every few hours, and if I were not very desirous of getting some first hand information about Osaka, I should seek a more peaceful retreat. Called early to see a Mr. Kennedy, after which I went to the Mousselaine de laire Spinning & Weaving Company, in company with a very courteous city official. Operatives number 2,500, mostly girls and young women many of the children being pitifully small though this factory is at the point immensely superior to the cotton mills, where child life is exploited shame-

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elessly. Operatives pay 8 sen for board. Night school, 2 hours attendance, compulsory in all under 14. This is how the law is evaded in factories, I see. In afternoon visited Mr. T. Ishibashi, Editor of the Osaka Asahi. The type comprises 5,000 characters. Two of his presses were built in his shop after French models. He is member of Parliament for Osaka and says there are 25,000 voters out of 1,200,000 population. At 5:00 called on Miss Holland, an English mission worker in the factories, and at 6:30 had dinner with Dr. and Mrs. A.D. Hail, 33 Kawaguchicho, Presbyterian missionary workers and most charming people originally from Illinois.

Oct. 6th.

Went early to the Osaka City Office, where Mr. Hiroyma again devoted himself wholly to my welfare. After briefly interviewing the Mayor, went to call on Mr. T. Nakahashi, President of the Osaka Chosen Kaisha (one of the great steamship lines) and one of the greatest and most far0seeing industrial leaders in Japan. An hour's interview and more was exceedingly interesting. Catching a train at 12:00 I landed at the Tor Hotel, Kobe, where I lunched with Mr. Robert Young, Editor of the Chronicle, and the ablest newspaper man I have found, as his paper shows. Later called on American Consul and on Mr. E.H.Hunter of E.H. Hunter and Co. to whom Dr. S. A. Knapp had given me a letter of introduction. Mr. Hunter has been in Kobe since 1867, and employs about 5,000 Japanese laborers in his ship-building and other line of industry. Met Dr. Moore, of Virginia, (who spoke to me because he recognized my Southern accent) and he urged precautions against cholera: eat no fruit, raw or poorly cooked vegetables, eat hot toast instead of dry bread, drink only boiled water, brush teeth even only in hot water, etc. Dined with Dr. and Mrs. B.T. Galloway, of the United States Department of Agriculture.

Oct. 7th.

After breakfast started directly to the American Consulate but got caught on the way by some shops, the upshot being that I bought a pair of grotesquely carved wooden candlesticks, a pair of shoes, and an extra suit case for my accumulating possessions. Started an artice for The Progressive Farmer, and lunched with Mr. Curtis, Editor

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of the Kobe Herald, his wife and daughter. Worked an article in afternoon. At 6:30 tried to catch boat for Miyajima, but finding all berths taken, decided to stop at Oriental Hotel over night, catching early train for Miyajima tomorrow.

Oct. 8th.

Left Kobe at 7:00. Met on the train Miss Margaret Maxwell, a newspaper correspondend and globt-trotter, special contributor to Scribner's Magazine. Landing at Miyajima Station at 3:40, we proceeded by primitive thatched Sampan to the Mikado Hotel. Worked further on my article.

Oct. 9th.

After breakfast walked to temple and over town with Miss Maxwell, who talked with considerable freedom about moral conditions in Japan (which she thinks are very bad) and elsewhere in the Orient. She left after tiffin. Finished my dinged article and mailed it. At 3:30 set out to climb Mt. Miyajima, which I found sufficiently amusing-- 1,300 stone steps to the top, and much additional wlaking between the tiers. But the view of the beautiful Island Sea that one gets from the top is well worth the effort, to say nothing of the splendid exerciase.

Oct. 10th.

Spent the day preparing an article on "Does the Japanese Industrial Competition Menace the White Man's Trade?" Based on my month's investigations. Oct. 11th. Ditto. Oct. 12th.

Completed my article this morning at 3:42, left Miyajima for Shimonoseki; arriving at 9:00 and at 9:30 boarded steamer for Fusan. Notice in paper that a storm warning has gone out.

Oct. 13th.

I don't know whether I got sick on the 12th or 13th but that it wasn't more than two or three hours after sailing there is no doubt. The boat rolled and pitched in most unprecendented fashion, and my English room-mate thought there was going to be a typhoon. I was having fun enough to keep me interested, however, and didn't concern myself with that subject. Nor was I interested in breakfast call. About 10:00

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we landed in Fusan amid the oddest crowd of people I have yet found anywhere. The Koreans dress in white or rather in what was once white but never is again--with big bloomer-like skirts. At the station gate there must have been a hundred with absolutely primitive arrangements for carrying luggage on their back--twin pieces of sapling with protruding parallel limbs forming a sort of shelf for my suit-case. I am glad to get to Korea. In Japan proper, nearly al the work of breaking, cultivating and harvesting was done by hand, there were almost no horses, oxen or cattle to be seen, and absolutely no sheep or hogs; and it is astonishing to find how much one misses the familiar sights of the at home farms. Rice fields, one-story shops, Shinto toriis and Buddhist temples are well enough; but before you know it, you are hungry for the sight of fields with horses or oxen doing the work, hungry even for the sight of an old razor-back piney woods rooter, or a field of opening cotton. All these Korea has supplied--even if I do fell on the whole that I have been transported back into the ties of Abraham. Certainly there is little in Korean farm life as I have seen it that would not look familiar to the ancient patriarch of Israel if he should make a tour of inspection to-day. Only oxen are used--no horses. The plows are wooden and made by hand from trees cut in the near-by forests with only a primitive point of iron or steel, and there are not two handles as with us, but only one and that little better than a stick of fire-wood. The houses are equally primitive: mere walls of stone and mortar about as high as your head with straw roofs above them. In nearly every group of these houses there are two or three with pumpkin vines clambering over the roof, and at least one housetop gorgeous with a supply of red pepper spread out for drying. About 9:00 Ash and I reached Seoul and found it hardly less primitive and picturesque than the rural districts, though I should not forget the fascinating beauty of the moonlight country seen for a couple of hours before reaching Seoul. I should like to carry the picture in my memory. And then Seoul itself: the weird, white-robed figures moving in the dimly lighted streets--no electric lights save in a few shops: lanterns, lamps and candles, and the light of the moon. Here was the real East, and both Ash and I were too delighted for