A Trip Around the World [draft], 1910-1911

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their plumes and the beautiful grounds, white arches, and green foliage made a memorable view. Thence to Botanical Gardens, after getting mail. The Hindoos are blacker than I thought but with Caucasian features. Ash-smeared fanatics, naked babies of both sexes, be-jewelled women, men in either dirty ex-white or brilliant robes--the streets present an odd sight. The great banyan tree is 906 feet in circumference. In afternoon went to Jain Temple, and made some purchases. Saw monument "In Honor of the Most Noble, the Marquis of Hastings, K.G." [marked out- Spent some time consulting Cook as to trip.]

Jan. 3rd.

Spent some time consulting Cook as to trip. Called to see American Consul. Find Sheik Jamaldin, my guide and servant protem, unsatisfactory and will get another. Bought $40 worth of stuff for presents, getting cheated, I am sure, on afterthought. To-night Mr. HIldebrand and Miss Shobinger left for Penares, and I want to depot with them. Hildebrand and I got on famously together, and I am sorry to see them go.

Jan. 4th

Engaged Sheik Mogul, an English-speaking Mohammedan as my guide. He usually addresses me as "your honor" or "your honors" though sometimes as "master". Called at Government House, where the Secretary to the Viceroy arranged some letters of introduction for me. Tiffined with Consul and Mrs. Michael, who told me some interesting Indian incidents. In afternoon started for Darjeeling, crossing the sacred Ganges where we had dinner on shipboard.

Jan. 5th.

Got off at Siliguai and boarded the narrow-gauge railway, --the crookedest in the world-- for Dajeeling, arriving there about noon, was sorry to find it rather cloudy, but felt repaid even by the partial view of the snow-clad summits of the Himalayas (their bases invisible) higher up than among the clouds. The Nepalese women are the prettiest I have seen in the Orient but they are doing fearfully hard work; many employed in carrying heavy stone on their backs for miles.

Jan. 5th

Got up at 3:45 and started with two other men on horseback to Tiger Hill to see the sun-

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rise. There I was rewarded by one of the sublimest sights mortal eye has ever gazed upon--a perfect view of the great ampitheater of "the Snows", including Everest and Kinchinjunga. the loftiest peaks formed by the Almighty's hand. I have never felt about any other spectable so utterly at a loss for language to describe my emotions.

Jan. 7th

Had chotohazree on the Ganges and reached Calcutta about noon. Decided to cut out Egypt and the Holy Land from my trip and had Cook engage passage for me on the Franconia from London February 25th. Cabled Raleigh "Home March 4th. Inform sister." Called on Rev. Mr. Grose, a Methodist pastor, whom I found interesting; had a long walk with an Irish laborer, and a night head a lecture on "The Moslem World" at the Y.M.C.A.

Jan. 8th

Visited the Kalighat, the temple of "Mother Kali" and saw the hideous sacrifices of kids, and the prayers to the terrible goddess. Also shrines for Juggernaut, for the god of the small pox, and others. Many pilgrims bathing in the Ganges. LAter visited "burning ghats" where corpses were in various stages of burning. The chief priest at Kalighat marked my forehead with Kali's sign, but I soon rubbed it off. CAlled to see Mr. and Mrs. Lee of the Lee Memorial Home, and at 6 p.m. heard Mr. Zwiemer on Mahammedanian again.

Jan 9th

Called to see Viceroy's Secretary and got letters of introduction to officials, after which I had interesting interview with T. Wynne, Mr. Holmes, Mr. Paton, and Mr. Porter. In afternoon also saw the Mohammerdan ceremonies for the Muharram in anniversary of the deaths of Husai and Hassain. Streets crowded with followers of the Prophet bewailing and carrying banners. Left to-night for benares.

Jan. 10th

Spent my 30th birthday in Benares. View from the river is marveously imposing and impressive, but the disgusting monkeys at the Durga Temple, the vile obscenity of the Nepalese

#38 Nepalese, the filth and vulgarity of the Golden, and the crowds of fakirs, snake-charmers, and mercenary priests, to say nothing of the questionable women that surround all the temples-- what a disgusting conglomeration is Hinduism. Called to see a Weslyan missionary, whose wife told me some intersting stories of their work.

Jan. 11

About 6:00 o'click started for the river again. The view of the riverside was no less impressive than yesterday from an architectural standpoint, while the unabridged display of colors in the garments of the crowds made a picture to delight the soul of an artist. I should like never to forget it. Met Mr. W. Rothenstein, an English artist working here, last night. In afternoon reached Lucknow which I find very beautiful--surprisingly so. Went to-night to the Mahurram (Mohammedan) festival.

Jan. 18th

EArly this morning visited the Residency where Wm. Leland, a survivor of the Mutiny, acted as my guide. Very entertaining. Afternoon spent a couple of house a Cawnpore where I saw the memorial well, memorial chapel, etc. Arrived late at night in Agra and caught a faint glimpse of the Taj in the distance.

Jan. 13th

Donned my new suit, which is very fine, as Pepys would say, and went out to see the Taj, the unrivalled gem it is reported to be, the Gem Mosque, the Pearl Mosque--which should in itself make Agra famous etc. Called on Rev. Mr. McIntosh of the Baptist Mission and in the evening went with Judge Evans and an Englishman to see the Taj.

Jan. 14th

Spent the day writing an article for my paper, but at night saw the Taj, under an absolutely cloudless sky with the moon practically full. It is indeed a vision of loveliness so fascinating that it was with difficulty that I pulled myself away.

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Jan. 15th

Called on Mr. McIntosh to read him my article for criticism. Went walking for about eight miles in the native quarter which furnished a number of unique sights, including the marriage procession of a ten year old bridegroom. Nearly killed Skeik Mogul with the walk. "If your Honors takes any more walking like that," he says, "I got dead!"

Jan. 16th

In the morning Rev. R. M. McIntosh drove me through the native villages and to the beautiful Tomb of I'tamud-ud-daulah, telling me much on the way of the life we saw. Saw a band of dusty pilgrims returning from Benares with their holy water. In afternoon went with a small party by water to Fateh-puh Sikri, the now deserted fiat city of the great Akbar, and at night went with Mrs. Ames and an English lady to see the Taj mahal in its surpemest glory- the beautiful light of the Indian full moon. Got some flowers as keepsakes from the Tomb.

Jan. 17th

Left Agra in early morning for Muttra. Fortunately there in getting with Bishop McDowell of Chicago on a visit to the Methodist Mission schools, etc. The party took me in charge as a guest of honor, and I had a most enjoyable day, seeing something of the old Biblicallooking city--as well as the interesting work among the natives. Reached Delhi about 9 p.m.

Jan. 18th

Sheik Mogul took me in charge, and we went through the Cashmere Gate into the fort, saw the museum (including the foot-print of Mohammed in stone) the Muglall Palace, including the stately Hall of Public Audience and the magnificently splendid Hall of Private Audience and Private Apartments. Next visited the Jama Mosque, the alrgest in India. Saw hair from Mahammed's head, his sandal, and the Koran written by his son-in-law Ali and grandson Hasain In afternoon visited ruins of Firszabad, the magnificent old fort at Indrapat and th einterior ruins, the Huamayow Tomb, and the Nizam-ud-din Tombs. At night called on Rev. Mr. Thomas of the English Baptist Mission.

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Jan. 19th

Having expressed a desigre to see the life of a typical rural village Rev. F. M. Wilson took me in tow, and we visited two or three whose names I don't remember and wound up with a prolonged stay at Khere Kalan. Came back on Grand Trunk Road past ruined cities and strange travelers by camel and bullock cart. Saw some beautiful wild deer bounding gracefully across the fields.

Jan. 20th

Bade farewell to my servant Mogul, who appeared to be sick and returned to Calcutta. Rather relieved to have none to look after now. At 10:00 o'clock started with Mr. Wilson to the Kutab Minar stopping en route to see the Observatory and the Tomb of Safdan Jang. Climbed to the top fo the Kutab, and was greatly interested in the neighboring ruins. Had tiffin at the home of the native Methodist worker or minister, and later went with Mr. Wilson to an interesting mission service. Returning we were invited into a Hindo wedding feast, which was an unexpected pleasure. Left 10:22 p.m. for Jeypore.

Jan. 21st

Arrived at Jeypore in the afternoon. Very hot and dusty; the desert is not far away. Got matter together for my Progressive Farmer article, and late in the afternoon had an intersting ramble through the native quarter.

Jan 22nd

Wrote this morning. In afternoon went to see the Maharajah of Jeypore's Palace, Garden and stables. Also--visited the surprisingly creditable Museum. Was awakened last night by the barking of a wild jackal at my door.

Jan. 23rd.

A great day! Set out early with the Ames and their English friend for Amber. Part of the way we went by carriage, but then mounted a great old Jumbo of an elephant, traveling on him for about an hour before reaching Amber, and about an hour coming back. Saw other elephants on the street. Amber was interesting; also the Hindu shrines I saw en route. Left in the afternoon for Ahmedabad.