A Trip Around the World [draft], 1910-1911

#41.

Jan. 24th Reached Ahmedahad about 1 p.m. The country en route was very interesting, with monkeys thicker than rabbits in Chatham.

The principal mosque here with its forest of pillars, the elaborately carved Jain Temple and especially the life on the streets, proved quite fascinating.

Left at 9:30 for Bombay.

Jan. 25th Arrived Bombay early in the morning and spend most of the day reveling in letters and papers from home, and answering them!

Took a ramble through the city in the afternoon and bought some books.

Jan. 26th In the forenoon called on the American Consul and got some Indian publications.

Later called on the editors of the Indian Textile Journal and went out with Judge Evans to see the Parsce "Towers of Silence", which I found rather gruesome in spite of the rare natural beauty of the location. After dinner went with Judge Evans for an interesting call on Rev. Powell Shaw, an English Methodist missionary.

Jan. 27th Visited the cotton market and afterward called on Editor Wallace of the Indian Textile World, getting from these two scources much interesting information about the cotton industry.

About noon went to the Mohammedan Mosque where I found many worshippers, sitting on the floor and swaying as they went through their ritual.

Afternoon went with Rev. J. Lampard to a mission meeting, and made a few remarks which he translated.

Jan. 28th Called to see American Consul, and afterward had an interesting talk with Mr. Rogers, Secretary of the Chamber of Commerce.

In afternoon went with a party to the Caves of Elephants which I found marvelously impressive as a stupendous work of anqitue sculpture work.

Leff to-night for Madras.

#42 Jan. 29th Spent the day traveling over a dry, semi-desert like country to Madras.

Millet, cotton, etc. largely grown; houses the most primitive I have seen.

Read "Modern Hinduism".

Jan. 30th Called to see the Vice-Consul at Madras. Later visited Mr. Ewing of the Y.M.C.A, then the Editor of the Hindoo.

Having a letter of introduction to the Governor, Sir Arthur Lawler, sent it around and called in the afternoon, some interesting developments resulting.

Just before night went to St. Thomas Cathedral, and saw the supposed grave of St. Thomas (though as to this I am myself a doubting Thomas) and the great car of Juggernaut, with wheels 9 feet high and about 18 inches thick.

Jan. 31st Had an interesting day. An hour's interview in the morning with an eminent Hindoo leader, Mr. Krishna-SwamiIyer.

An interesting peek at the High Court and the richly clad but bare-footed Hindoo lawyers.

A trip of inspection through the cotton mill which employs about 4,000 Hindoo s.

In the afternoon an hour's interview with Mr. Couchman, Director of Agriculture. Left at 5:50 or thereabouts for Madura.

Feb. 1st. Arrived at Madura about 11.00 a.m. and found a carrage drawn by bullocks waiting to take me out to see Rev.J.P.Jones.

He took charge of me in the afternoon and went with me to see the famous Temple, the Palace, the Banyan tree, the Mission schools and Hospital, Lake Temple, etc., besides telling me a great many delightful stories of Indian life.

Feb. 2nd Said a few words to Dr. Jones's students which were translated into Tamil. Visited the school farm.

#43

Then went third class at a cost of half an anna to Madura, and revisited the Palace, with its marvelously beautiful columns and the Temple, with its marvelously disgusting filth. Just before night-fall boarded the steamer for Columbo and bade farewell to India.

Feb. 3rd.

Landed at Columbo about 8:00 a. m. and after seeing Cook's and getting lunch took the train for Kandy. A very picturesque route through tropical jungle, tea plantations, rubber plant-ations, etc. Glad to find Capt. Buchanan at the Queen's.

Feb. 4th

Went for a ride through the Botanical Gardens with Capt. Buchanan. Greatly interested in seeing nutmeg trees (something like double0size thornless hollies), clove trees, rubber trees, palm leaf fan trees, orchids, and the sensitive plant; also bats as large as crows. Returned to Colombo in the aftenroon.

Feb. 5th

Up early, got breakfast (after writing a few postals) and took my luggage to the pier where at 10:00 o'clock a launch took me to my steamer, the "Buelow," which will be my home for the two weeks. There was considerable exceitement over a case of small pox among the passengers,--a lady who was carried to the hospital in Coombo. Vaccinated this afternoon. After so much strenuous travel, glad to rest on shipboard awhile.

Feb. 6th

At work on my article on "The Caste Sytem in India." Weather quite warm, but no uncomfortably so in thin clothing.

Feb. 10th

Finished my article on "The Plight of the Indian Woman".

#44

We are having a thoroughly delightful voyage. In fact, I believe I have not had a rainy day since I was at Nankou Pass early in November,--although we had a few showers in Singapore and perhaps other places. Some good card games with the young ladies to-night, including new game (to me) "I doubt it".

Feb. 11th

Reached Aden early in the morning but did not land. A great number and great variety of traders, mostly black Africans, came in boats with ostrich plumes, eggs, beads, horns, tiger or leopard skins, etc. What we have been able to see of Arabia to-day is an utterly barren desert. More games to-night by a party of the younger folk. The young ladies aboard are quite charming.

Feb. 12th

Mr. Bachelor of Coldwater, Mich., preached, Sea still smooth, good food; and a pleasant party aboard. The steward of the ship has the happy faculty of remembering everybody's name a trait which adds so largely to his popularity that I plan to try cultivating it myself My room-mate is Mr. Prillwitz, a German born in Russia. He is an ex-officer in the German Army and was wounded in fighting natives in Africa.

Feb. 13th

Weather surprisingly rough, but I really enjoyed the day, best of the entire voyage. The waves broke in great sheets of spray like a snowstorm. Our fancy dress ball, at which I had planned to appear as a Hindoo, was called off. [on account of the weather] We are well in the Red Sea and Mecca is to our right over Arabia. One of the little girls I like most aboard speaks English, German and Japan-ese -at nine years old! Lillie Abegg of Hamburg.

Feb. 14th

Calmer this morning, we took up the sports postponed from yesterday.

#45

Miss Adams of Cleveland and I led off in th eBattle Race, and Mrs. Abegg and I were in the Threading the Needle, in which I came out second in the whole group by good running. A delightful bunch of young ladies and little children aboard. The sports are interesting me so much that I can easily believe that I should have become absorbed in them if I had gone to college.

Feb. 15th

The last day of the sports and though I won no prizes, I came off with honor--among those of the foremost rank-in practically everything I entered. Miss Barbara Sutton of San Francisco was my partner in the Knotting the Tie race. At daybreak we entered the Suez Canal, and the whole way has been through a desert that is Sahara enough for me. LAst night passed what was pointed out as Mount Sinai by an experienced traveler.

Feb. 16th

Reached Port Said, Egypt, early in the morning and went ashore, regretfully parting with a number of my best friends--Maj. and Mrs. T.L. Ames of Rock Island and little Adelaide, Miss Sutton and her parents, the Lamprechts, and the Browns. Found Port Said much like a European city, the statue of De Lesseps at the head of the Canal, with the waves breaking at its base and the spray laving half the pedestal, I thought very impressive.

Feb. 17th

Quite a sea this morning, which lasted pretty well through the day. In the afternoon we passed Crete with its snow-covered hills giving it a decidedly frigid appearance. Am reading Dante's "Vision" and "Sherlock Holmes"--but I am finishing Sherlock quickest! Weather quite cool to-day.

Feb. 18th

Finished my last article on India and feel much relieved.