A Trip Around the World [draft], 1910-1911

#26.

kepper that he is either a liar or a scoundrel which I did more or less directly. He had charged me $1.50 for sending a note across the river to Miss Cheshire, yesterday whereas I went and came to-day for 20 cents.

Nov. 18th.

Boat started for Shanghai at 9:00 last night, and at 9:00 this morning we stopped at Kuikiange where my room-mate, Mr. Cleggy (on his way to San Francisco to be married) went with me through the unspeakably dirty streets of the antive city. In another quarter we found some silversmiths and made some purchases. Boat resumed its trip about noon. I completed my article for The Progressive Farmer.

Nov. 19th

There was a sunrise this morning such as would have rejoiced the heart of an artist. As I looked out my cabin window a most gorgeous display of clouds glorified the whole Eastern sky, and against its gold and crimson stood the low, black outlines of the Chinese village, the harbor with its forest of ship and junk masts, and towering above all the picturesque outline of a Chinese pagoda. About noon we reached Nanking, only its great wall visible. A beautiful trip to-day, the Yangste perhaps 20 miles wide in places and enlivened by a a continuous line of Chinese traffic carried in unique vessles reminding one of the pictures of the old Green and Roman ships. Passed Woolsung famous in the Taiping Rebellion, and other interesting places, reaching...............at night-fall. Read "Mr. Opp" to-day-- a character worthy of Dickens.

Nov. 20th.

After a most interesting talk with Dr. Skinner of Hankow we reached Shanghai about 11:00 where I was greatly delighted to find a liberal batch of mail forwarded from Hong Kong. Spent the afternoon reading and answering it and doing some other writing, going at 6:00 to a very pretty service at Union Church.

Nov. 21st

Am greatly relieved this evening at having my articles all mailed. Went around to office of "Far Eastern Review" and also saw my friends, Dr. Skinner and Brewitt-Taylor again.

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Nov. 22nd.

Called early to see Mr. T. R. Jernigan and was much disappointed to learn that he will not return from a hunting trip till next week. Had a most interesting call on Dr. T. Richard and Rev. W. Morgan of the Christian Literature Society.

Nov. 23

Called to see Dr. John C. Ferguson of the Shanghai Times early and about 10:30 started out to see Rev. Dr. R. T. Bryan of the Union Baptist College. Heard two or three of his Chinese students in homiletics preach short sermons which he criticised. Rev. Mr. Tatum, another Tar Heel, was at tiffin with us. Saw different divisions of the school, the little Chinese boys and girls singing relitious songs for me, some Chinese, one English. The English was excellently rendered and pronounciation surprisingly good. Went out on the farms awhile. Cotton is sworn in "lands" like wheat and cultivated but little. Stalks small and yields likewise. What surprised me greatly was the number of coffins lying all about in the fields, dead Chinamen in them! They would make excellent sentries for a Southern melon-patch! My Chinese tailor brought my new suit. It cost me $31 ($20 of it in Peking bills liable to 5% discount) and would probably cost nearly that much gold at home.

Nov. 24th

Spent the day rewriting my Manchurian article till 5:00 p.m. when I went to Union Church and heard a most delightful Thanksgiving address by Dr. Amos P. Wilder, the American Consul in Shanghai. It was gem. The audience cheered his defense of Roosevelt-- the only applause in the course of the address. Beautiful Thanksgiving music.

Nov. 25th

My Manchurian article completed, I mailed it and my article on Industrial Japan to Raleigh for typewriting and I feel greatly relieved at having them off my hands at last. Next called on Dr. Wilder, American Consul, then on Harry De Gray and then on James A. Thomas of the British-Aerican Tobacco Co. Then went out to Southern Baptist mission to tiffin with Rev. and Mrs. A. M. PRoence. He then took me over the mission school

#28

and church, and out to the North Gate where the girls school is located. Also saw the old church which Rev. M. T. Yates built (chiefly with his own money) and of which he was pastor for many years. This evening dined with J. A. Thomas and his three guests, two ladies from New York and a Texan. Thomas is a rich find, he has a great fund of reminisciences covering the whole earth, and talks the only genuine North Carolina language I have heard since leaving home, including a picturesque disregard for certain statues ordained by Lindley Murray. Enjoyed the evening immensely.

Nov. 26th

Thi shas been a tip-top day. Several letters written early. Next went to the International Cotton Mill where the manager, Mr. Currie, showed me all phases of the work. Then called on Dr. Ferguson and Dr. Wilder, and set out to see His Excellency Wu Ting ang. Found him at last in a handsome house in foreign style and had a most intersting hour's interview. At 5:00 o'clock tender left Shanghai wharf with me aboard, and about about an hour later I boarded the Toyo Kisen Kaisha S. S. "Tenyo Maru" boound for Hong Kong.

Nov. 27th

This being a Pagan Japanse boat there were no religious services today (Sunday) My room-mate is a dandy Scotchman--Chas. E. Douglas, a civil engineer. Wrote, read and walked.

Nov. 28th

Caught with my delayed correspondence and did some reading wonderfully smooth sea, In sight of Chinese coast nearly all the time.

Nov. 29th

Reached Hong Kong early, after breakfast. At Cook's office found my Confucian books from Mr. Kung awaiting me. Spent sometime getting my itenerary straight for a few weeks ahead and in late afernoon made the magnificent ascent to the top of "the Peak". The view just before sunset was about as pretty as anybody ever sees in this world. Miles and miles of fleecy clouds of which we saw only the silver lining. Below them the water of the harbors, thick dotted with ships, while here and there a peak emerged from above the cloud masses. At dinner ran up with my friend G. Baron Ash. Shortly after 9:00 I boarded by steamer for Canton.

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Nov. 30th

Woke up this morning to find our steamer anchored 3 hours from Canton instead of being at Canton wharfs as promised--and a fog so dense that we could hardly see the water from the deck. The fog bell had troubled me during the night, but I didn't know we had stopped. It was sometime after breakfast before we could proceed and then but slowly until about 11 o'clock. At noon we reached Canton and I was met by my guide who rejoices int he name of Ah Cum John. Had five hours sight-seeing through Canton's narrow ravine, Genii, Chun ancestral Temple, five-storied Pagoda, etc., etc., and also saw silk spinning, jadestone grinding, weaving, carving, execution grounds (skulls in a barrel) fantan gambling, etc.

Dec. 1st

Went to Cook's, arranged about my tickets, and then called to present my letter of introduction from Ambassador Bryce to His Excellency, General Lugard, Governor of Hong Kong. His private secretary received it for the Governor, who soon sent an invitation for luncheon tomorrow. I find that the Governor here is regarded as quite a little monarch--no more like the people at home regard the Governor than the democratic attitude of the United States towards its President is ike the English attitude toward a king. The front seats in the Peak train are marked "Reserved for the Governor when wanted by him", certain houses advertise as "Purveyors to the Governor", and in society the Governor is the high muckamuck. In afternoon did some writing and arranged photographs for my magazine articles.

Dec. 2nd.

Took 66 letters to advertisers to the Post Office to mail when I met Mr. Loureiro. He introduced me to some of the leading men there--Sir Mormusjee, Mody, a wealthy Parsee, Hon. Murray Stewart, and the Italian Consul. The latter remarked that he had noticed my arrival in the papers together with the announcement that I was to lunch with the Governor.

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At the luncheon I met a Coloney Bayard who saw service in the Boer War, add the Governor's aide, Maj. Taylor, of the 33rd Lancers. Had a very interesting conversation with Sir Frederick about his military campaigns in South Africa.

Dec. 3. 4. 5.

On the worst sea and in the meanest boat known to mortal man. A liberal dose of Hades that it will be painful to remember.

Dec. 6th Landed what was left of me at Manila, being somewhat consoled to find that the Sigismund, which left a few hours ahead of us, had about as bad a trip. The Captain stayed on the bridge all the way from Hong Kong here without sleep, it is said. In the afternoon while still feeling dazed, I took my letter of introduction around to Mr. Wm. Crozier, Editor of the "Far Eastern Review", who from that time on was at my service. Dined with him and Mrs. Crozier and had a delightful evening.

Dec. 7th

Got up early and went into the Walled City to see the Manila Cathedral and one or two of the other Catholic churches. Then Mr. Crozier took me to the Educational Department where I met Mr. White and Mr. Magee, after which he (Mr. C) took me ton about half a day's automobile ride, showing me some typical Filipino villages, farming country, and natural scenery. Returning called on Hon. Chas. B. Elliott, Secretary of Commerce and Police, who talked most interstingly of conditions in the Islands.

Dec. 8th

At 9:00 o'clock had an interview with Governor-General Forbes, then with Vice-Governor Gilbert, and at noon caught train for Daguban. Greatly interested in seeing the country. Reached Dauban after night fall, but got a good meal at the "Oriental Hotel, Bar and Grocery" and a clean cot upstairs. Most of the stores are run by Chinamen.

Dec. 9th

Got up at 5:00 and found Daguban quaint-looking by day as well as by night. Met a number of interesting fellows and a very attractive little 12-year-old girl on the train to Manila. Crozier took me around to the Forestry Departmet and to the Museum, after