A Trip Around the World [draft], 1910-1911

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Oct. 29th

Got up early after an hour's riksha ride took train for Nankou. AFter early tiffin we got three laughably little donkeys and two Chinese coolies and struck out for the Ming Tombs. After walking awhile we mounted our steeds and looked for all the world like clowns riding trick mules. Bolter and Cruse are fine fellows, full of humor, and we had a charming trip. Especially impressed by the odd animal monuments. Saw a good deal of Chinese farming, plowing, flailing, threshing-floors, farm houses, etc. Went to bed about 8:00 after preparing to start by donkey at 5:15 to-morrow for Nankou Pass.

Oct. 30th.

Woke at 4:00 to find it raining but we finally got started with donkeys, drivers and lanterns at 5:45 walking in the dark for an hour before it became light enough to try the donkeys. Cruse fell off twice. We met many droves of horses and sheep and two camel trains, while the biggest caravan of all came through the gate while we were on the Wall. Immensely impressed by the ancient structures. Caught train and returned to Peking. Went on top of Cathedral for view of the city. Did some writing in evening.

Oct. 31st

Called to see Dr. Tenney of the American legation and also had an hour or more with Minister Calhoun. Took tiffin with Mr. Cloud, formerly Consul at Mukden and now representing a group of American financiers. In afternoon called to see Dr. Anderson of the Imperial University and remained for dinner.

Nov. 1.

Mez invited me to go with the bunch of young Germans, so I went with them to see the Lama Temple, the Great Buddha, the Temple of Confucius, the Hall of Classic and the Yellow Temple. The latter has a work of art in a beautifully covered monument hopelessly defaced by Japanese soldiers. Tiffined with Mr. Cloud and dined with him and Geo. Bronson Rea, Editor of the Shanghai-Manila Far Eastern Review. Rea was in Cuba when the "Maine" blew up and knows the whole story.

Nov. 2

After getting some photographs and doing some shopping, spent rest of morning with Mr.

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Joseph Ohl, correspondent of the New York Herald. Cruse left this afternoon, called home by the death of his sister. In afternoon had interview with Sir Robt. Bredin and Capt. Reeves, the military attaches of the U.S. Legation. Dined at Dr. Anderson's with Mr. Cloud.

Nov. 3

Called to see Mr. Moore of the Associated Press, a Southerner and a fine fellow. At tiffin met Mr. Wearine, Reuter's agent, a veteran of the Boer War and a native of Australia. Whipped my article into shape this evening.

Nov. 4

Called to see Dr. Tenney of the American Legation who presented me with an 1897 copy of the Chinese Official GAzette, the oldest newspaper in the world. I also saw the Chinese manuscript copy of the Assembly's petition to the throne for an early Parliament. Tiffined with Cloud and Wearne. This afternoon I was an onlooker at some history-making, taking tea with Mr. Moore of the Associated Press when a messenger brought a summary of the Prince Regent's edict authorizing a Parliament within three years instead of seven years hence as originally planned. Later Mr. Moore took me to the Wai Wu Pu (Board of Foreign Affairs) where I met Dr. W. W. Yen, a Chinaman ______ at the University of Virginia.

Nov. 5th

Called early to see Dr. Lowry of the Methodist Mission, and failing to find him went to see the Y.M.C.A. where I met Mr. Gailey the Director. The afternoon I spent with the Nestor of Chinese missionaries, Dr. W. A.P. Martin, now in his eighty-fourth year. After leaving him, called on one of the editors of the Peking Daily News where I was surprised to find my friend Chun who came over on the "Korea" with me.

Nov. 6th.

Got up early and with two men to my riksha went 9 miles to the Summer Palace which I found indeed magnificent. Called at the Y.M.C.A. again where I met Mr. Edwards and

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then went to the union church service and seemingly the first church service in the regularly constituted union church representing all denominations engaged in mission work in Peking.

Nov. 7th

Went early to Hotel Peking where I presented my letter of introduction from Ambassador Bryce to Dr. Timothy Richard, an English Baptist of Shanghai and one of the most interesting men I have met in all China. He and I and Rev. W. Edward Soothill, President of Shanai Univeristy, Taiyuanful, talked for three hours. In aftenroon called at Wai Wu Pu and secured my ticket for the Tzucheng Yuan on National Assembly. This evening took Miss Ruth Tenney, daughter of Dr. C. D. Tenney of the American Legation to a musical over at the Hotel. It seemed rather natural to be taking an American girl to such an occasion once more!

Nov. 8th

In morning called on Dr. Tenney who showed me a number of notable Chinese cartoons and some important secret political documents intended simply for my private information. Afternoon called on His Excellency Tang-Shp-yi, President of the Board of Posts and Communications one of the Emperor's Cabinet, and had an hour's interview. Started article for Progressive Farmer, Excellent music for dinner. Cloud and I ate together and we counted nine distinct nationalities in the dining room to say nothing of sub-divisions such as Irish-British, Australia-British, Canadian-British, etc.

Nov. 9th

In the morning talked with Dr. Tenney and Minister Calhoun of the American Legation. At 1:30 started with Dr. Tenney to see the Chinese National Assembly. They were having a red hot time and were demanding that the Grand Council of the Empire be summoned before them to explain an alleged breach of the rights of Provincial Assemblies. Fiery speeches were made. At 4:00 called on Mr. Alfred Sze, a Corness graduate now in the office of Foreign Affairs.

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Nov. 10th

Spent the morning writing at one went to Minister Calhoun's for tiffin. A very enjoyable party. After tiffin Mr. Calhoun received telegram announcing sweeping Democratic victory in AMerica. Called by to see my friend Moore, seriously hurt by a fall from a horse.

Nov. 11th. Worked on my article on "The New China". At 4:30 went to a reception at Mrs. Calhoun's where I met a number of Americans and Herr Dernberg, the famous German statesman. Fearful dust storm this evening. Dined with Dr. and Mrs. Luther Anderson.

Nov. 18th

Finished my Chinese article. Went with Dr. Tenney and Dr. Goodrich to the afternoon session of the Tzucheng Yuan. Bough some photographs and went to see Chun and Li Shang Ling of the Peking Daily News.

Nov. 13th

Chun called early and together we went to see the Temple of Heaven, on eof the most beautiful places of interest about Peking. Fine crisp morning and glorious trip. Afterward went to Temple of Agriculture and saw the place where the Emperor (now the Prince Regent) annually plows sixteen furrows as a tribute to the importance of agriculture. In the afternoon Chun and I took a long walk on the city wall, after which I called to see the Tenneys. Miss Sheldon is especially attractive.

Nov. 14th

Called in the morning at the Imperial College of languages and met Mr. Alfred E. Kung, a descendant of Confucius (Kung Futzu) of the seventy-fifth generation. Hes a very attractive young fellow, and my friend, Dr. Anderson, says he has ambition, ability, high character and wealth, and will make his mark. I was delighted at his promise to write a scroll for me showing my favorite Confucian text in Chinese. Sent the scroll up this afternoon and he did it and returned it with a letter offering me also a copy of Confucius in Chinese and English.

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In afternoon called to see the Tenneys, Mr. Calhoun, dr. and Mrs. Anderson, and Mr. and Mrs. Moore, saying good-bye as if I were leaving home.

Nov. 15th.

Wearne had me at his right at a great dinner party last night, which didn't break up till after midnight. Then I had to get up very early and pack. Chun came by for me and went with me to the depot where the Tenneys introducted me to Mr. L. Brewitt-Taylor of Bangkok. Delighted to find Dr. Timothy Richard of Shanghai on the train.

Nov. 16th

Went to bed early last evening. Had interesting talk with Brewitt-Taylor on Siam, and ith Dr. Richard on China. The Doctor listened to my article on China and was delighted with it. Reached Hankou about 4 p.m. and after risking my life in getting through the mob of coolies for my unchecked baggage, went to Terminus Hotel, sent a note to Miss Cheshire across the river in Wuchang. Met Mr. A.E. Lloyd, Jr., of Durham with American Tobacco Co. here. Failed to get steamer ticket for Shanghai as men were at the races.

Nov. 17th.

After breakfast sent my luggage down to the S. S. "Kutwo" leaving for Shanghai tonight After two trips to bank and paying 3% discount (the steamship company charge is 5 1/2%) got my money changed and my ticket paid for--$40.80. Then called to see American Consul, Mr. Masher, expecting to get note from him enabling me to see Hanyang Steel and Iron Works. Found it too late. After tiffinn got coolie from Mr. Sherman of American Church mission to go with me across river to see Miss Cheshire. A friend had advised me not to go if the Yangste proved to rough for steam launch to run (as it was) but when my coolie hailed a native sampan, I got on and trusted to the Lord and luck. It wasn't so bad as I thought. Had a very intersting talk, walk, and tea with Miss Cheshire and started back across the Yangste in a rocking little sampan just as gorgeous full moon rose in the East. Hailed a riksha man and made a special trip to Hotel Terminus to tell hotel